devolped some humm thats not normal

I dont know 2003 s-10 4 X 4 just started to hear a humm it happends when speed go up like 70-80 or so how do you check the transfer cases ? fluid wise thank you so much in advance..........

forgot to say my U-joints are squeeking so I need to replace them but would that have something to do with it thanks

If the universal joints are not lubricated, the bearings will wear and the joint will become loose causing a hum or vibration. When this happens, the joint(s) must be replaced.

theres no place to oil or grease the fittings I guess GM just wants you to replace them ...........

theres no place to oil or grease the fittings I guess GM just wants you to replace them ...........

Yes. When mine went out, it howled. It sounded like an airplane noise.

R&R can be a trick. If you need an explanation of the R&R let me know.

theres no place to oil or grease the fittings I guess GM just wants you to replace them ...........

Factory U-joints are lubed for life which means until they wear out, which could be a lot shorter life than you would expect. You can replace them yourself but you need something to apply heat with (propane torch) and a good size vice or a lot of parts stores will install them at a reasonable price if you pull the driveshaft and bring it in.

Sparky

Factory U-joints are lubed for life which means until they wear out, which could be a lot shorter life than you would expect. You can replace them yourself but you need something to apply heat with (propane torch) and a good size vice or a lot of parts stores will install them at a reasonable price if you pull the driveshaft and bring it in.

Sparky

Right on Sparky!

When I did the U-Joints on an older GM Rear Wheel Drive it went something like this.

Once you remove the nuts on the U-Bolts and remove the driveshaft from the vehicle, you may notice that there are no snap rings or retainer clips on the U-Joints. You will probably see a small hole in the top of the yoke over each bearing cap. The small hole in mine was filled with an Orange plastic that is injected into the hole at the factory and holds the cap in place. To replace the U-Joint you have to remove the plastic and ultimately the bearing cap on each of the yokes. The easiest method is to go to your favorite hardware store and buy a small propane plumber’s torch (usually $20). Fire up the torch and heat up each leg of the yoke. You should start seeing the plastic stream out of the hole like toothpaste and more than likely the bearing cap will actually pop. Once the cap pops, you may need to tap or press it the rest of the way out. Repeat this until all of the caps are removed. Clean up the yoke and then install your new U-Joints with a big vise or possibly even a large C-Clamp. Replacement U-Joints will have clips or snap rings to hold them in.

You guys are the best have your-selves a great day !