Jetta wolf cranks but wont start

VR6 cranks but wont start
Hello. I was reading the thread that told me to look at your VR6 cranks but wont start.
I have not had success finding this thread. However I was hoping you could help me.
I own a 96 jetta GL wolf. It has no spark and is not getting fuel.
It has a new distributer,crank sensor,coil ignition modual,fuel pump,fuel filter, and ignition.
It turns over but will not start.
It died going down the road and hasnt started since.:banghead: No juice at fuel pump relay/no check engine light
Any ideas?
Any tips greatly appreciated

are you sure your not getting spark AND fuel?
Has the fuel pump relay been replaced?

I've never worked on a 96 jetta, but it sounds like it could be a computer issue. If you are absolutely certain that there isn't either a spark or fuel then it sounds like something electrical. Make sure the crank sensor is installed correctly and that the flat gear that goes past the sensor isn't facing backwards (this will put you 120 degrees off timing. If this is ok, I'd have it put on an analyzer at a dealer because it's just to hard to try to find the source of this type problem without the proper test equipment.

Ive been working on the car, and now have juice to the dist, but nothing coming out of it. The car has a new dist, ignition module, coil, crank sensor, fuel pump and relay, fuel filter,computer and timing belt. There was a camshaft sensor circuit B malfunction code but I reset the timing and its gone now. There is also juice to the hall effect sensor. There was a pinched wire in the dist for the hall sensor, but I rewired it and it has juice. I think the wire might have shorted something out, but I don't konw. I'm used to building small block chevy motors, not the newer electronic style motors. Any help greatly appreciated.

i don't know man. you replaced the distributor NEW, and you have power going to it but theres no damn current going to the other cylinders?
Did you really put in a new distributor...
if your getting spark,(good blue colord spark) to the distributor and your not getting any power to the cylinders then i'm just TOTALLY confused.
go ahead and replace your distributor cap and rotor, new spark plugs and wires and if that doesn't cut it it's time to haul it to a shop.

Forgot... new plugs wires and rotor . Brand new dist from VW garage. There is no spark coming from coil, there is 12 volts coming from coil. I thought if there was juice coming thru coil to dist it would fire but it doesn't fire. But it has 12v of juice coming from it. This is my car, but I work at a garage, and have a diag computer. Still no help!!!!!!!! Have all the tools and equipment I need to work on the car, even the books. But i'm still lost.

I know you've checked the timing, but the distributer can be 180 degrees off and everything look OK. Have you checked to make sure that it isn't sending a spark, but at the wrong time?

yes, there is nothing coming out of the dist at all. I used a volt meter on the out side of the dist and cranked the motor over and had nothing. The meter did drop in volts as the motor cranked over. At start I had 12 volts and as it cranked my volts dropped to about 9 volts. The pinched wire had me a little worried so I went and bought another one(brand new again) from VW in Youngstown, but since it's the fourth i'm going to wait till tommorow to put it in. Now I didn't put the crank sensor in, another mech did before I got the car. I read that you can put the sensor in backwards and throw the timing out 180. How do you know? As far as the timing, there are two marks on the cam and two marks on the intermediate shaft, which marks are the right ones. I used the O/T mark on the cam and the dot on the intermediate gear. The book I have showed those marks, are they right? Both have the O/T and the dot marks, the crank I used the mark on the flywheel. Maybe i'm wrong on the timing. I'm not sure. But as far as spark there is no spark at all. Can the ignition switch itself be bad and throwing everything off, the alarm and everything else works. Except for the engine light, it doesn't light up in the dash but my diag computer says that it is on. There are still no codes in it though. According to the comp everything is ok. The comp does show that the fuel system bank 2 is disabled, but I figured that it was disabled due to whatever is keeping it from firing.

Check your wiring going to the injectors on bank 2. If you're only getting fuel to three cylinders it may be your problem.

if there is faulty wiring to the injectors how do I tell? I don't have noid lights for checking injectors. Should there be 12 volts to the injectors? I talked to a guy from VW garage and he said to check the ground wires for the dist, the hall effect sensor and to check the fusable links. I can't find the fusable links, any ideas where they are?

My last response was to the wrong thread. It was for the OBD II error. Have you tried popping the dist cap off and cranking the engine to make sure the rotor is spinning. It sounds like everything should be OK and you're experienced enough to have checked out everything that you should. I think I'd step back and look at the simple stuff for a bit. You know that you have fire to the dist from the ignition coil and if you've confirmed it's spinning then put the cap on check for fire at each connector with it spinning. You need to see exactly where the spark is being lost. Don't ignore the simple or the impossible.

Man, I fixed mine today from almost regular difficult starting problems, especially in the mornings, but sometimes just started right away not depending on weather or temperature. Took me 1 year to look everywhere - first replaced distributor ($300), then tried other coil, replaced coolant temp sensor ($20), oxy sensor ($120), then took it to dealer to inspect timing and hook it to computer, he found nothing ($not even saying). Then trying to suspect more sensors as some people recommend here ($400 mass flow, $100 cran position) but fortunately did not buy them. The solution lied elsewhere and is very simple: replace spark plugs AND properly gap them to 0.024" instead of standard 0.028" as everybody recommends (at least to me). I ended up using expensive stock Bosch silver plugs ($8/piece), but last week tried ungappable bosch platinums which made the engine unstartable (just piece of crap), just took them out and returned where they came from.

You replaced a new ignition coil, but still get no spark, wires, plugs are good?
Your Primary objective now is to get spark from the coil.
i'm begining to think you have an ECU failure.

sounds like the timing is off to me you can line up the marks but if its off even by a little that you cant see it wont work had that problem with my 5.0 get a timing light and check that before you waste anymore money on anything else, because theoretically it should work with all the crap you got for it

i've got a 400HP 5.0 sitting in my Garage right now, i'm cool like that :cool: yeaaa

Anyway, if timing is the issue, you'll get a spark from the dizzy...It may not be in the right order...but you should still get a spark.