Coolant Changing Question

Hi Folks,
I am sure this has been asked a million times so please bear with me.
I have a 2002 24V 40,000 mi Tauras. I am changing the coolant. I drained from the petcock but only got about a gallon of old stuf out. The manual states the system holds 10.6 qts. If I flush the whole system, it seems I will only get out the one gallon through the petcock. I replaced the gallon with a 50/50 mixture of NEW coolant but that makes me think I have FAR LESS than a 50/50/ mixture now. How do I get ALL the OLD stuff out and refill the WHOLE system with the 50/50 stuff with out pulling freeze plugs etc.
Thanks for any suggestions,:banghead: I have a air-compressor and was thinking if I blew air into the plastic recovery tank, that may blow the rest of the OLD stuff out but I didn't want to screw anything up with this methoid before I asked the pros here.
Rob Roy

Did you have the pressure cap off of the system when trying to drain it? In order for much of the coolant to drain out, there will need to be a way for air to get in to replace/displace the coolant.

About the only way you can confidently go through the system and be sure you have a proper mix of clean coolant of the proper pH level will be to use a cooling system recycling station. This system will cycle coolant through the vehicle, must the same way you would if you were to flush the system with water. The difference is, the station will use good coolant in place of the water and run it all (including what it takes out of your car) through a series of filters. Periodically, the technician will monitor the freeze/boilover point of the coolant as well as the pH level and adjust accordingly. Hopefully the technician uses de-ionized water rather than tap water to dilute the mix when necessary as well.

-Rod

Did you have the pressure cap off of the system when trying to drain it? In order for much of the coolant to drain out, there will need to be a way for air to get in to replace/displace the coolant.

About the only way you can confidently go through the system and be sure you have a proper mix of clean coolant of the proper pH level will be to use a cooling system recycling station. This system will cycle coolant through the vehicle, must the same way you would if you were to flush the system with water. The difference is, the station will use good coolant in place of the water and run it all (including what it takes out of your car) through a series of filters. Periodically, the technician will monitor the freeze/boilover point of the coolant as well as the pH level and adjust accordingly. Hopefully the technician uses de-ionized water rather than tap water to dilute the mix when necessary as well.

-Rod
Yes Rod, I did take off the filler cap but only after several minuets after unscrewing the petcock. Then it started to drain much faster. Where can I get a cooling system recycling station?
Thanks Rod for your help !!
Rob

Well, I doubt you'll get a recycling station, they are a few thousand dollars and typically found at automotive repair shops. If you are concerned about getting the system completely flushed though, you'll almost need to go that route.

-Rod

Well, I doubt you'll get a recycling station, they are a few thousand dollars and typically found at automotive repair shops. If you are concerned about getting the system completely flushed though, you'll almost need to go that route.

-Rod
Boy, I sure hope this reply does not appear twice. Thanks Rod, I think I will not be purchasing a recycling station at that price.
Question:
I purchased a coolant tester from Advanced Auto Parts. It has a rubber ball on top and two sets of numbers on either side of the clear gauge with a red floating needle inside. I live here in South FL so I don't need to know how to read the Freeze point side but on the boil over side, where should the needle be to make sure I have a 50/50 mixture of coolant in the car? The numbers read like 131(over) 268 at the tup and 124(over)255 at the bottom of the scale. Where should the floating pointer be when I test?
Sorry to be SO Stupid Rod but there were NO instructions with this tester.
Rob Roy

I suspect the top number is the degrees C number and the lower number is degrees F - ie: 131 C/268 F.

If I remember correctly, straight water boils at 212 degrees F, so good coolant should boil at something significantly higher than that, like 240 degrees F or so.

Part of my point to the recycling process though is that there is more to having good coolant than just boilover protection. The coolant needs to be at the proper pH level to keep from corroding parts.

-Rod

I suspect the top number is the degrees C number and the lower number is degrees F - ie: 131 C/268 F.

If I remember correctly, straight water boils at 212 degrees F, so good coolant should boil at something significantly higher than that, like 240 degrees F or so.

Part of my point to the recycling process though is that there is more to having good coolant than just boilover protection. The coolant needs to be at the proper pH level to keep from corroding parts.

-Rod
Good Point Rod,
I have called AutoZone, Advanced Auto Parts, Napa and bennett auto parts stors and none of them carry the PH test strips so I can check the PH. Do you know where I can get them or can I use any ph test strip?
Again Rod, Thank You for all your help as usual !!!!!
Rob Roy

Good Point Rod,
I have called AutoZone, Advanced Auto Parts, Napa and bennett auto parts stors and none of them carry the PH test strips so I can check the PH. Do you know where I can get them or can I use any ph test strip?
Again Rod, Thank You for all your help as usual !!!!!
Rob Roy

You can pick up Ph strips at a pool chemical supply store or even a store like Lowe's or Home Depot. I picked up a roll of Ph testing paper for a few dollars.

You can pick up Ph strips at a pool chemical supply store or even a store like Lowe's or Home Depot. I picked up a roll of Ph testing paper for a few dollars.

Thanks for ALL your help as usual Rod. U the Man to go to as usual !!!!!!
Rob Roy

Only 1 more question Rod. I know you have heard that before:wink: I got the PH strips from HomeDepot and I have a PH reading of about 7.8. Is this OK?? If not, how do I raise the ph in my system? I used a 50/50 mixture with the new coolant.
Thanks again for all your help Rod
Rob Roy

It's been about 14 years since I worked with a coolant recyling station, so I don't recall what the pH range is. I believe the goal was for a mostly neutral solution, so 7.8 wouldn't be too far off. I think the desired range though was 7.1 - 7.4, but hopefully someone with more current experience will chime in, or maybe a Google search will yield results.

There is a pH decreaser additive that is used with the recycling stations to decrease the pH. The method to increase the pH was to add more coolant. Or do I have that backwards....

-Rod

This is a great thread! Thanks for the info about pH, I never knew that. I always thought that as long as the antifreeze was good you'd be in good shape. Looks like I'm off to search for some pH strips at HomeDepot :grinyes:

Does anyone know what department they'd be in?

This is a great thread! Thanks for the info about pH, I never knew that. I always thought that as long as the antifreeze was good you'd be in good shape. Looks like I'm off to search for some pH strips at HomeDepot :grinyes:

Does anyone know what department they'd be in?
>>>>>>>>>>>
Garden dept. Just ask where the pool supplies are.
Rob

Thanks Rob :)

The strips are narrow pieces of cardboard with the pH paper glued on them along with Chlorine, alkalinity & hardness. I flushed mine four times in the last two days and made sure the water was clear then drained it way down and added one gal of 50/50 pre mix then added well water to bring it up where it should be. My Ph is about 8.5. Hardness is OK and alkalinity way, way low. I think they call it litmus paper and landscapers use it to test the Ph of soil. You don't need pool test strips to test for chlorine and other chemicals because they are fairly expensive. If you know someone with a pool ask them for a strip and they'll probably give you a few.

I figure after five years it could stand cleaning so I got a can of flush, put it in and drove it for a day then drained it refilled and drove around an hour, drained it again refilled and put it to bed for the night. When I did the flush drain I caught some and it was pretty brown looking but nothing terrible. This morning I drove it a few miles to get the t'stat open, drained it and refilled then drove it several miles again then drained it put in the 50/50 mix and water and ready to rock.

http://thepoolzone.com/watertesting2.html?gclid=CIq4hauT5IwCFR0ZgQod2g0K2 Q

PH greater than 7.0 is basic and lower than 7.0 is acidic. So, from what I see, I'd rather have it on the basic high side than low in the acidic range. Click here (http://www.aquachek.com/consumer.asp) to learn more about pool and spa water chemistry. http://www.aquachek.com/chemistries.asp?l=2 then scroll down and click pH.

CAPISH?

The strips are narrow pieces of cardboard with the pH paper glued on them along with Chlorine, alkalinity & hardness. I flushed mine four times in the last two days and made sure the water was clear then drained it way down and added one gal of 50/50 pre mix then added well water to bring it up where it should be. My Ph is about 8.5. Hardness is OK and alkalinity way, way low. I think they call it litmus paper and landscapers use it to test the Ph of soil. You don't need pool test strips to test for chlorine and other chemicals because they are fairly expensive. If you know someone with a pool ask them for a strip and they'll probably give you a few.

I figure after five years it could stand cleaning so I got a can of flush, put it in and drove it for a day then drained it refilled and drove around an hour, drained it again refilled and put it to bed for the night. When I did the flush drain I caught some and it was pretty brown looking but nothing terrible. This morning I drove it a few miles to get the t'stat open, drained it and refilled then drove it several miles again then drained it put in the 50/50 mix and water and ready to rock.

http://thepoolzone.com/watertesting2.html?gclid=CIq4hauT5IwCFR0ZgQod2g0K2 Q

PH greater than 7.0 is basic and lower than 7.0 is acidic. So, from what I see, I'd rather have it on the basic high side than low in the acidic range. Click here (http://www.aquachek.com/consumer.asp) to learn more about pool and spa water chemistry. http://www.aquachek.com/chemistries.asp?l=2 then scroll down and click pH.

CAPISH?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Since starting this thread, I have googled a lot of (Auto ph recommendations) and all suggested to keep ones coolant PH between 8.5 and 10/0.
Just my findings.
Rob Roy

I read you 5/5 Rob. They had some kind of cooling system conditioner at WalMart becside the flush I used and I didn't pay it much attention but next time I wander that way I'm going to read the label. Starting to get real hot here and I take our lil' girl doggie to work with me on service calls and I let the car idle a lot with the A/C on so my best girl friend won't get to hot. :iceslolan Every stop I pop the hood and raise it figuring it will save a few degrees and let the A/C do a better job. Have to say, AC works so good you can hang meat in there when it's 100F outside.

HA! Wait'll the heat index is 105F and the humidity is 85% and I'll show you how to sweat. We're on an island on the SC coast half way between Charleston and Savannah surrounded by water so humidity is the order of the day. Yup, been a good learning thread and sure 'preciate you throwing it in the ring for discussion.:ylsuper: