97 Grand Prix SE 3.8 no start

Last night my son drove the Grand Prix and he stopped and cut the engine off. Five minutes later the engine would turn over but would not start. He tried a few minutes and the battery died. I showed up and hooked up jumper cables and listened for the fuel pump. I did not hear it run when he turned the key on. I pushed the schrader valver and no fuel came out. I swapped the spare fuse for the fuel pump and the fuel pump still did not run. I had it towed home. The battery was at least 3 years old.

I bought a new battery and put it in this morning. I then checked the schrader valve before I turned the key and fuel sprayed out. I thought this was odd. I then cranked the engine and it ran normal. I put my fuel pressure gauge on it and cycled it on and off several times and bled the air out and got 35 with just the key on. I turned the key off and left the gauge on it for 10 minutes and then the gauge read 25. I idled the engine and the gauge read 45. When I sped the idle up it dropped to 42 but went back to 45 at idle. I turned the engine off and left the gauge hooked up again for 10 minutes and the gauge read 50.

Any opinions?

Try changing the fuel filter. It is possible that it blocked up and when you let the car sit for a while the dirt settled a bit and allowed the car to run. This culd also account for the fact that the fuel pressure keeps growing. Once you get the filter changed then check the pressure again and see if it stabilizes if not the fuel pump may be going bad and will need to be replaced.

Update. I changed the fuel filter in June and all seemed OK.

Well it died again tonight. This is only the second time it has done this but I want him to have a dependable car. My son was driving it and stopped at a friends house. He started it about 5 minutes later and he said it started idling bad and stopped before he could get out of the driveway. I showed up 30 minutes later and I could not hear the fuel pump run when the ignition was turned to run. I put it in neutral and tried also. The engine seemed hotter than usual but the air temperature here now is 103 degrees. It had about a third of a tank of gas. I pushed the shrader valve and a small amout of fuel came out with lots of air. I got all the air out and then turned the ignition on and still could not hear the fuel pump. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and hooked it back up and tried but the fuel pump did not run. Fuel pump fuse looked OK. I checked the connection at the fuel pump and unplugged and plugged it back in. Still the pump did not run. I did not have my volt meter with me. I called a tow truck. 2 hours later (still waiting on the tow truck), I turned the ignition on and I could hear the fuel pump. I cranked the engine and it seemed to run fine.

I dropped it off at the dealership to keep the family happy and also because I have had intermittant ABS/TRAC lights and I am tired of trying to track down the problem. I will get them to scan the chasis codes for me while it is there. I may just have them replace the fuel pump too.

Question: Should I go ahead and replace the fuel pump? It is working again so I have no way to see what the problem is. I believe it is the origional pump based on the seal around the pump cover and the amount of dirt on the pump. I guess I just a few opinions.

Thanks

This morning dealer said it will be a day or two before they can look at the car. Parts department said fuel module is $540.00 but they would sell it to me at wholesale for $440.00 with a lifetime warrantee. Local parts places will order offbrand part for about $300.00 with 12 month warrantee. If I get it I will get the dealer one.

Part #25179344 $540.00 ($440.00 wholesale)
MODULE, F/TNK F/PMPSENDER & PUMP. W/SEAL. CODE WFR.
After VIN 238198

I have the 2nd design pump so this is my part number.

Should I just go ahead and replace the pump myself?

WWJD (What Would Jue Do?)

I would have the dealership change it especially since they already have the car. The price is higher but the warranty indicates you won't have to do it again. Although you are probably looking at additional for labor. Sometimes the hassle factor is worth the money.

If you really want to do it yourself then go for it. You will save some money in both the cost of the pump and labor. Of course the choice is yours.

The fuel pump is accessible from the trunk, so you don't have to drop the tank. If you have basic mechanical ability and a few simple tools, you can do this job yourself in about 2 hours or so(less if you've done one before). Unless they are giving you a great deal on the labor ($100 or so), I'd do it myself.