94 3.0 ltr no start/no fuel
RIP
06-05-2007, 06:10 PM
Working on the neighbors 94 Mazda B3000 (Ranger Clone) with the 3.0 ltr 6. I have zero experience with Fords/Mazdas. Said it worked fine till yesterday when it wouldn't start. No previous symptoms. Getting spark but no fuel.
> No pump sound at fuel cap with ignition on.
> Spark plugs are dry
> No fuel at test port on fuel manifold rail with ignition on.
> Pump and EEC relay click when ignition switched on.
> Getting voltage at inertia switch.
> Inertia switch shows continuity across contacts.
All that is telling me power is getting from the ignition switch, out of the powertrain control module, through the relays and to the inertia switch. Next step would be to check power at the pump but, that's my problem. I don't see a way to access the pump to get at the connector with the tank installed. Anyone have experience with this? Is there a remote test connector to check power at the pump? Any alternatives? Anything I missed?Thanks in advance.
> No pump sound at fuel cap with ignition on.
> Spark plugs are dry
> No fuel at test port on fuel manifold rail with ignition on.
> Pump and EEC relay click when ignition switched on.
> Getting voltage at inertia switch.
> Inertia switch shows continuity across contacts.
All that is telling me power is getting from the ignition switch, out of the powertrain control module, through the relays and to the inertia switch. Next step would be to check power at the pump but, that's my problem. I don't see a way to access the pump to get at the connector with the tank installed. Anyone have experience with this? Is there a remote test connector to check power at the pump? Any alternatives? Anything I missed?Thanks in advance.
DonSor
06-05-2007, 06:45 PM
No sound around the pump (gas tank) area with ignition on? Sounds like defective pump or no power to the pump. Try getting a hold of a Ford Ranger Manual. It shows electrical schematic including the fuel pump. It will either show the harness or the color code of the power wire to the fuel pump. Note that the fuel gauge is in the same assembly.
RIP
06-05-2007, 11:17 PM
Yes, I have a manual. The question is, how can I get to the pump connector to check for power? Is there an alternative? Any tricks?
Wacking the tank with a mallot didn't work.
Wacking the tank with a mallot didn't work.
DonSor
06-05-2007, 11:51 PM
There's no trick. Trace the wires coming from the relay (which I assume you have already checked) going towards the tank. If you can ID (color code) the wire anwhere along the race, probe it for power using one of those auto voltage detector ( a lighted pen with a sharp probe and a ground wire). with the ignition switch on, prick the wire with the sharp probe and clip the wire to ground and see if you got power.
RIP
06-06-2007, 02:15 PM
Now why didn't I think of that? The wires are in shielded tubing. Will try to take it appart. I'm getting voltage at the inertia switch so I'm calling the relay good. Would still like to get at the connector but, the probe is the next best thing. Thanks.
RIP
06-15-2007, 03:16 AM
Neighbor took it to a shop before I could get back to it. Charged him $360 to change the fuel pump. Starting and running great now. Thanks for the help.
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