93 Lumina won't accelerate

Stopped for a red light the other night and car stalled started right back up but when you push the gas peddle the car wants to stall. I fluddered the peddle and it would keep moving but very slowly. I let the car sit over night went out, it was a little hard to start but started. Idles fine in park put it in gear and its a little rough but steady push the peddle ad it chokes the engine. No codes. Getting gas but not sure of presure yet need to get new gauge. Any ideas what could be wrong?

Check and see if the multi-line vaccum connector near the throttle body popped off...

Checkedthe multi-line vac intact Is ther a fuel pressure regulator on the 3.1L V6

Yes, it's hard to reach I think...under the upper plenum but I think you can get to it with the plenum on.

Might consider a throttle position switch...if it can't tell how far the throttle is open, that'd kinda explain that behavior as well...you have a MAF or MAP on that one? (been too long, I don't remember)

I'm just throwing random ideas here...very hard to say.

But if it can't cope with anything other than a closed throttle plate, it would seem the problem lies in either throttle angle sensing or intake air mass not being read correctly...

I changed the fuel pump and strainer in the tank and also changed the air intake temperture sensor. Car seem to run OK but when I am sitting in park and rev the engine It spudders at real high RPM. Fuel pressure before changing tank strainer was 12 psi after 40 psi. Thanks for help

Wow...surprised it would even run at 12psi...hope you got it.

I've had a similar problem that occurs at random. The symptoms are as follows:

- Attempt to start the car after its been running and has only been off for a few minutes

- The engine turns over fine, sounds like it wants to start, sputters and dies

- It takes several attempts before it starts with the gas petal all the way to the floor

- During acceleration the car hesitates, sputters, and feels like it has very little power at the wheels. On some occasions the car even stalls just as the gas petal is pressed.

This is an intermittent problem. During start-up, if the car starts normally, than the car will run fine for the duration of the trip. If the car starts abnormally, the car will run abnormally for the rest of the trip.

The only code I get is a faulty temperature sending unit. I don't know where this is located, and I doubt this has anything to do with the engine stalling issue.

I have replaced the Fuel Filter, wires and plugs.

Any suggestion on where I should start to look to solve this problem?

Your advice is appreciated! Thank you.

Ran car today with no problems infact it seems like the car has more power now. Runs good but still spudders sitting in park reving at high RPM. I am going to change the TPS and see if that has any effect on the problem might even change plugs also its about due any way.

- Attempt to start the car after its been running and has only been off for a few minutes

This is an intermittent problem. During start-up, if the car starts normally, than the car will run fine for the duration of the trip. If the car starts abnormally, the car will run abnormally for the rest of the trip.

The only code I get is a faulty temperature sending unit. I don't know where this is located, and I doubt this has anything to do with the engine stalling issue.


a faulty temp unit will cause problems like that

if the ECM thinks the engine is cold, then it will run rich when the engine is hot, and might not even get into closed loop.


hows the temp display on ur dash?

Ran car today with no problems infact it seems like the car has more power now. Runs good but still spudders sitting in park reving at high RPM. I am going to change the TPS and see if that has any effect on the problem might even change plugs also its about due any way.
doubt its the TPS, im just a shadetree mech...


if you are saying it revs up by itself and sputters, might check ur CKP wiring harness from near the connector going to ur ignition module, runs along the firewall side of engine, against the exhaust, down to bottom side of engine... had that happen to me, would stall the engine when the burned wire touched the exhaust, then would either start up or might take a while. the engine would occasionally rev at high speed (no sputter) when idling... cold and hot

if you are saying when YOU rev the engine up in park it sputters... then i dont have anything helpful for that

kevinb70,

I have the base model Lumina. My temperature display is nothing more than an idiot light that will only come on if the engine is overheating.

I have researched the temperature sensor issue in the past and could only find one sensor. This one was located on the rear, driver side of the engine, near the firewall. It has one wire coming from it. The description on Autozone's website says the temperature sensor is located on the front left side of the engine under the exhaust manifold. I can't seen to find one there, seems to be no room with the coil pack being there. Anyone know if there is more than 1 coolant temperature sensor and where I would look to find them?

I am grateful for any advice here.

1993 Chevy Lumina sedan
3.1L V6 FI
Automatic trans

oh no gauge

stand and lean against the driver's side wheel well. lean over the engine, put your right hand on the throttle body/air intake, put your left hand on the PCV valve. Now somewhere between your hands, is the temp sensor.

its more on the drivers side, not the front of the car... just start scanning around below your two hands til you pick up on the coolant hose and then the sensor near it.

Look below the throttle body, for the coolant hose running to the engine... sensor should be very near the inlet pipe.

Check for loose connection or bad wires before replacing sensor.

you shouldnt be concerned when your car sputters in park and you floor it FG. My 90 3.1 does same I was told by knowledgable mechanic that ECM program does not respond well to this sudden flooring it. Why in the world would you want to do this anyway he asked me. I could'nt think of a good reason. The main thing is it accelerates in drive. Sounds like you got it running good so enjoy your ride.

your ECM's programming has an electronic rev-limiter that kicks in at around 4,000 RPM when in park or neutral to protect the engine against excessive free-revving, so that is normal. If it's now running good in gear, you fixed it, congrats!