Crank Position Sensor - 94 Century 3100

I'm changing out the crank position sensor on my 94 3100. The Haynes manual is wrong on the location of the CPS. Before I change it I need to know if its a 2 or 3 wire CPS. Anyone know where its located?

Welcome to AF.

The 3100 VIN "M" has two crank position sensors. A 24X and a 3X. The 24X is located at the back of the harmonic balancer and 3X somewhere on the back of the engine block. Not sure about the 24X sensor but the 3X is a two wire/two spade. What odb-i DTC code were you getting?

No codes show. The car has the common habit of stalling for no reason. The car will run great for about 30 mins but once it warms up it stalls. I have to wait about 5 mins before it will start again. I've changed the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay. Someone mentioned the CPS may be the culprit. Whats a 24X and a 3x ? I have the Haynes manual but its not that informative. I'm a motorcycle mech by trade but cars are more confusing than bikes.

Basically with a bad CKPS you lose spark so that woud explain the stall. Intermittent stalls is common to incude no DTC codes. The 24X and 3X are the pulses (output) provided by each sensor to the DIS/Ignition circuits. Used to control ignition timing and in conjunction with the cam position sensor control the fuel injection system. I would start with the main 24X sensor located at the harmonic balancer.

Thanks for the info, its appreciated. I'm confused by the terms 24X, 3X what do they mean?

I wouldn't worry about the meaning too much. That is what they are technically called. The link below should cover what you are looking for. Good luck.

Click here (http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0e/d2/13/0900823d800ed213/repairInfoPages.htm)

Changed it last night, hopefully it solves the stalling problem. Are the coil packs a problem on these cars?

Cross your fingers.

I wouldn't say the coil packs are a big problem area on the 3.1L engine but they can go bad or the contacts get corroded. Also, there is an ignition control module (ICM) under the coil packs. The CKPS signal feeds the ICM module. On coils you can at least check primary and secondary resistance with a DMM (meter). But resistance can show good until the coil breaks down under load but the symptoms should be an erratic misfire condition not a no start or stalling.

When I changed the CPS I found the crank shaft seal leaking badly and the AC sepertine belt was also in bad shape. I replaced these also. I suspect the CPS was the cause of my stalling problem. I originally replaced the fuel pump, which I now believe was not necessary, but what's done is done!

i took the car out for a good drive today and although it didn't stall it does hesitate when warmed up. At highway speed the car lugs and poor throttle response. I'm beginning to think I'm jinxed with this car!

I'd say it's time to start looking at the ignition system in this car. When you state " At highway speed the car lugs and poor throttle response.....Classic symptoms of a bad ICM or 1 of the coil packs In my opinion. You can remove your ICM (Under the coil packs) and take it and have it tested at Autozone 1st. The die-electric grease under these ICM over time dries up. When the ICM Is cold, it functions decent....when it gets heated up, they start to fail.....My 2 cents says, take the ICM and all 3 coil packs to Autozone and let them test them under a load....BTW, How old are the plugs and plug wires on this car? If the ICM and coils pass a load test, The next area I would look at is the TPS (Throttle Postion Sensor).

The spark plugs and wires are the ORIGINAL set! The car has 104,000 kms on. I made a tentative attempt to remove the spark plugs but they are rusted in place. I could only get the socket on one plug and couldn't move it. The other plugs are covered in rust preventing the socket from getting a grip. Any good rust buster ideas? I don't want to snap off a spark plug.

104 KMS (64,600 Miles) on the car and the plugs are that rusted?......Get a can of "PB-Blaster" from your local auto store, 6 New AC-Delco platinum spark plugs and a decent quality set of NEW Spark wires for this car....It appears as if weather conditions/salt on the road in your area and the lack of driving the car (64K miles on a 13 Yr old car) have attributed to this rust. Mark each old spark plug wire with masking tape and a marker 1st as to it's correct location, then remove the Spark plug wires off the plugs ONLY. Now spray some PB-Blaster on the Hex area of each spark plug and let it set for an Hr., Go back and spray each plug again and let it set for 3 hrs. After 3 Hrs, Take a hose a lightly rinse all the PB-Blaster off the spark plugs as you DO NOT want any of it getting into your cyliners when you remove the spark plugs.....Let the engine air dry until the water is dried around the plugs. Now, get a 5/8" spark plug socket, extension and ratchet and remove the plugs 1 at a time, replacing them with a new plug as you go (Check the gap on all the plugs before you install them, if you dont know how, let the auto store verify the gaps are correct to the spec of your car). When your done. Remove each spark plug wire, 1 at a time and replace them with a new plug wire of the same or near length and route the wire(s) the same way they come off......PB Blaster is a rust dissolver....Works great if you let it set as described! I'm confused as to why the 1 plug wouldn't come out? The threads of the plug are in the head and not exposed to the outside weather.......You are turning this plug counter clockwise to loosen it........Correct?