16G MBC Tap?

ok so i noticed that the E316g doesnt have a positive pressure nipple on it like the T25 does, anyone have any ideas on how to hook up my Boost controller? i know i could Tee it off the BOV line, but i do not want to have laggy responce. i remeber reading something about tapping the j-pipe with a nipple from home depo? does anyone have any info on that? a pic would help aswell, i have tomorrow (monday, May 29th) off, so i'm going to try and get this all squared away as fast as possible. thanks!

yea you can just poke a hole in the LIcp then screw a tap in that you get from home depot or wherever and then jbweld around the base of tap where it meets the pipe and your all set. (Be careful to not punch a big hole in the pipe make it a small one just large enough to "start" the tap"

i'm confused as to what to buy at home depo!? do you know what this "tap" looks like? or better yet, what it is actually called? as i said before, Pics of your MBC Positive source would be awesome!

Yeah man i ran into the same problem. Just go pick up a nipple at the hardware store and jbweld it in. What i did since i still have my t25 is take that nipple off of the compressor housing, the one that u had the mbc hooked too. Drilled a hole in the J-pipe, and threaded it in as much as possible, then JBwelded around it to ensure that it didnt leak. Hope the picture helps.

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r149/badeclipse/ughsdasdf.jpg

Thanks! and thats just the OEM one off the stock T-25? because i still have my T25 turbo!

Yep, took it right off of the old T-25's compressor housing.

That's what I did, except I didn't even thing to take it off the T-25. I just got one at Home Depot.

i bought one from Home-Depo, and taped into my J-pipe, but the threading is so tight, i had to use a wrench to tighten in the nipple. should i still JB weld it for a seal? are their any "more attractive" ways to insure an air-tight seal?

Well in my opinion, if it threaded in pretty tight that should be good enough. I guess if u wanted to be sure nothing leaked u could always throw some teflon tape on the threaded part, cap the nipple, and give it a quick boost leak test. Or maybe throw some epoxy on it which is clear and doesnt give it that "jb weld" look. But i have a feeling if u were to do a boost leak test now without anything on the threads, you wouldnt see any air leaking out. I just jb welded mine because it didnt thread very tightly.

Some info for the archives perhaps.

All you need is a 1/8th-27 NPT tap, the 21/64ths drill bit that matches it, and a 1/8th NPT to hose barb (of the appropriate size, usually 3/16th or 1/4 for MBC).

Tap the hole so that most of the NPT fitting threads in. Don't tap so deep that the fitting bottoms out before it's tight. Also, don't over-tighten the fitting. Tapered thread fittings use the taper in the thread to seal, if they run out of thread before that happens you have a useless hole.

Teflon tape is good to use, but keep in mind that it's not actually a sealant. It's meant to be a lubricant, so you get the fitting in tight enough to make a seal before friction in the threads prevents you from turning it anymore (leading you to believe it's tight). For a junction that I need to be sure doesn't leak, I break in the threads first (tighten and loosen about 10 cycles, then clean the parts off).

With all of the plumbing we do on turbo cars, it really is a good idea to keep an assortment of pipe thread taps on hand with their respective drill bits. 1/8th is by far the most common. I've used 1/16th for Gus-modding BOVs. 1/4 and 3/8th can be used on larger fittings, like hooking the brake booster up to a SMIM, or making your own ABS intake, etc.

I've recently started converting many fittings over from rubber tubing to hard tubing with instant tube fittings (also known as push to connects). Instant release, no leaks up to very high pressures, and a nice clean install.

www.McMaster.com is by far my favorite source for taps, bits, fittings, just about anything you need for home made parts and projects...


Edit> When I do want an actual sealant on pipe threads, I use the regular Permatex Ultragrey that is used on just about everything else on these cars. This should only be required if you are tapping very thin metal and getting it tight enough might strip it, or in situations where the threads are damaged, etc.

Unrelated to the tapping stuff, I don't think using the BOV line would provide laggy response. Unless you mean slow response of the MBC itself, leading to boost spike. I personally prefer to use the BOV line, or another line off the manifold, since it is manifold pressure that we are actually trying to regulate. :) I only move it to the compressor cover or LICP if it's a small turbo that gets some boost spike. FWIW.

Now all you have to do is define "small turbo" cause I know what kinda monsters you've worked with in the past. (search PSI thread started by me)

thank keven for that info! however, i already did the tap, and threaded in my nipple, i'm going to go ahead and just use some JB Weld on it however, i'm going to try and tape it off nicely, so it atlease comes out looking like a CLEAN cheap job! thanks everyone!

Yeah, I think you had mentioned yours was already done. I just can't remember posting about this topic in the past, so the info is now there for anyone else that may search later. :)