hELP ME PLEASE !!!

hoping Someone Can Help ( I Know Nothing About Cars )

I Purchased A Month Ago, A 1997 Ford Explorer, Looks Brilliant Inside And Out, But Had A Few Mechanical Problems. Most It Appears Have Been Fixed By The Mechanic Used By The Dealership.
But One On Going Problem, Which Has Been There Since I Got The Vehicle Is....
Underneath It Rattles Like A Bird Cage. Very Clear On The Side Where The Exhaust Is. I Am No Expert At All, But From Previously Owning An Explorer, Sounds To Me Like The Catalytic Converter, The Dealership Said They Had That Checked, But I Don't Think It's Been Reaired At All.( It Certainly Hasn't Taken Away The Rattling )also The "check Engine" Light Is On As I Drive. It Says In The Service Book, "check Engine Light Illuminates When The Emission Control System Requires A Service."

If I Don't Get A Move On , I Think The Dealership May Not Help Me Anymore

anyone Know Or Agree With Me ?

Welcome to the forum!

From your description, is sounds like the heat shield on the catalytic converter(s) may be loose and causing your rattle. This does not mean the converter is bad, and the rattle can be remedied with a special, large diameter hose clamp.

However, this will not fix the Check Engine Light. The good news is your Explorer has the OBD-II diagnostics which can be checked by pretty much any chain auto parts store for no charge. Swing by one of the chain stores, kindly ask them to read the codes, listen to their suggestion on what it will take to fix the code, ask them for the specific code, thank them, and post the code here. The code should take the form of P0123 where P could be a P, B, U and "0123" could be any string of numbers (well, not really any string, but not necessarily 0123). I suggest you don't just take the word of the salesman at the parts store as to what it will take to fix the light. Their knowledge of automotives varies greatly from employee to employee.

-Rod

Thanks Mate,
There's not alot that I can do today, being sunday and I'm at work on my laptop.
The mechanic did scan it yesterday with a hand held car-scan computer, which he connected under the steering wheel. After a few minutes the light went out, all seemed okay, but this morning, on the way into work, it came back on after about 5 minutes of driving.
As I said the dealership say they had the catalytic converter fixed, so does it sound more like the heat shield, and surely they would fixed this at the same time, especially as the rattling was still there. I was told it went to an exhaust place for the converter, so if it is the shield , is that for the mechanic to fix or the exhaust "specialist"?

Reg

Well, it sounds like you have two issues, a loose heat shield and a diagnostic code. The heat shield would be something that either the technician or the exhaust specialist should be able to fix. If the exhaust place repaired a converter though, and the noise is in fact a catalytic converter heat shield, then the exhaust place should fix the shield.

Did the tech that scanned for codes happen to document for you what the code was? I cannot think of any code that would indicate a rattle like you describe. The closest would be a a knock sensor code, but an engine knock would not be as pronounced as what you describe. However, there are codes such a rich cylinder banks which could cause the converter to overheat and lead to a broken heat shield potentially.

This is all speculation though, you really need to find out what the particular diagnostic code is before anyone here will be able to give much guidance.

In the US, most automotive parts stores will read the codes at no charge. I'm not sure how it is in Australia, and I'm not sure if the diagnostic system there is mandated similar to OBD-II is in the US.

-Rod

Rod,
May I first say, I really appreciate your time, kind of helps a vehicle dumb dumb like myself.

I had the codes read and wrote them down, they are as follows:

P 1131 H025 11 SENSOR INDICATES LEAN

P 1151 H025 21 SENSOR INDICATES LEAN

P O174 SENSOR TOO LEAN


The mechanic, (my local, not the dealership mechanic) said it means the car is not taking in enough oxygen.

I saw the mechanic who had been repairing the vehicle, trying to fix an air flow problem under the hood. He was making like a seal to go over something that obviously was used to let air through the engine. The car was stalling at intersections, and they obviously used this method to fix the problem, I did see him actually "block" off the airflow, but did see him making a seal or gasket for it. I'm actually smelling fumes inside the vehicle as I drive now,
so I don't know whether he has sealed off that airflow

Thanks

Reg

What kind of fumes are you smelling inside the vehicle, exhaust or unburned fuel?

The codes, along with your mention of fumes and the earlier discussion of a noise makes me wonder if you have an exhaust leak. An exhaust leak could certainly leak to smelling exhaust fumes inside the vehicle as well as leading to lean diagnostic codes if the oxygen sensor is picking up on this exhaust leak.

Also, the engine PCM would be trying to richen the air/fuel ratio to compensate for the "lean" condition and contributing to a smell of unburned fuel as well.

However, an experienced technician should be able to hear an exhaust leak and recognize that it is an exhaust leak. Have you been able to point out the noise you are hearing to your technician?

All three of the codes you are reporting have pretty much the same possible causes according to the factory service manual.
Possible causes:

Fuel system

-- Excessive fuel pressure.

-- Leaking fuel injector(s).

-- Leaking fuel pressure regulator.

-- Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel.

-- Contaminated fuel injector(s)

-- Vapor recovery system

Induction system

-- Air leaks after the MAF.

-- Vacuum leaks (vacuum lines and gaskets).

-- Restricted air inlet.

-- PCV system.

-- Improperly seated engine oil dipstick.

EGR System

-- Leaking gasket.

-- Stuck open EGR valve.

-- Leaking diaphragm.

Base engine

-- Oil overfill.

-- Cam timing.

-- Cylinder compression.

-- Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2Ss.


Check intake air system for leaks, obstructions and damage.
Check air cleaner element, air cleaner housing for blockage.
Verify integrity of the PCV system.
Check for vacuum leaks.
-Rod

G'Day Rod,
All mumble jumble to me , but will print off your answer and take it with me to the mechanic ( another visit ).
This mechanic used by the dealership used a stethoscope to listen to parts of the engine to see where the rattlings coming from ( I thought I was watching a repeat of E.R )
The other mechanic, who actually said "Nooooooo dont buy an exploder" said it sounded like the chain, and the whole engine would need pulling out. ( Like I've got the money or resources to do that ).
Anyway, wish me luck either side of the coin.
Best Wishes Buddy
Reg
PS. The dealership HAS washed its hands of me, saying they've done enough and what they had spent on the car in repairs.
I will be parking the car infront of the dealership at the weekend, with my own come back " THIS CAR IS A LEMON " sign, put in all the windows. I've lost my money, they won't fix the problems. I may have lost my money but NOT my sense of humour or determination for a good fight !!!

G'Day Again Rod,

Went back to the mechanic, they now have confirmed that the rattling under the hood is indeed the timing chain, something that I had been suspicious of since day one and had hinted to them to check. In U.S money we'd be looking at about $ 4000 to fix ( $ 5000 AUSTRALIAN ). Maybe thats why they took so long to diagnose the problem, the 30 days unofficial warranty they gave me is up, maybe a bit of a hush hush between the dealership and the mechanic. ( in Australia if the cars over 10 years old, they dont have to give the normal 3 month warranty )

Speaking to the mechanic I used for years, he says he's said that he's heard of peoiple driving around for years with a damaged chain, and said I should have the engine drained and use a thicker engine oil , hopefully that would help on wear and tear and the noise level ubntil I can get it fixed. Although he has said, he wouldn't be game enough to take it on himself. Does this sound right to you mate.

Regards

Reg

Which engine do you have, the 4.0L SOHC, 5.0L V-8, or 4.0L pushrod? It doesn't seem like the timing chain should be that difficult....

-Rod

4.0 L SOHC Rod.


Have spoken to the dealership owner, I think they may come to the party with paying for the repairs if I go 50/50 with them, which is something
I don't want to do but may have to just to get the thing running correctly.

Regards

Reg