Daylight Running Light Not Working

I have a 1998 Ford Taurus LX and Daylight Running Light is not working, I believe this circuit is also connected to the inside high beam light indicator, they are both not working. I have checked the fuses and also all the relays in the switch box inside the car as well as under the hood. I have also checked the two relays inside the plastic box next to the driver's side wheel and they seem to be good. When I looked at the owners Manuel the fuse, which is 15 amps, also serves as the high been light indicator. AutoZone can they check it through the code? Any suggestions.

Have you checked the bulb(s) and the switch? I would get a wiring diagram and start at the lights and start taking voltage measurements.

When you said checking the bulbs and switch are you referring to the headlights bulbs? if you are referring to headlights bulbs, they are both working fine in high and low beams. What do you mean by switch? and where the switch is located.

Whatever bulbs are used in the system. What turns the DRL on? That would be your switch. Check the ground(s) too. Without a wiring diagram you're shooting in the dark.

Behind the front bumper, there is a black box. This is the DRL module. Unplug it and see if the lights work normally.

can you please specify 'behind the front bumber' is it inside the hood, or between the radiator and the front bumper and if it is towards the drivers side or passanger side or in the middle and what's the easiest way to get to it. Thanks!

The daytime running lamp (DRL) system is designed to turn the high beam headlamps ON, with a reduced light output and without illuminating the high beam indicator in the instrument panel (04320) , when the following conditions are met:

The ignition switch is in the RUN position.
The park brake is fully released.
The headlamp switch (11654) is in the OFF or PARK lamp position. The DRL system is required by the Canadian government for vehicles sold in Canada.

The DRL system uses a daytime running lamps control module located on the LH front bumper brace under the front of the vehicle.

When the DRL unit fails its normal for the high beam indicator light to stop working, seen it many times. The Ford DRL units are nothing more then junk. If you don't need the DRL by law then use a DRL terminator plug and this will get your high beam indicator light working again.

I have a 1998 Ford Taurus LX and Daylight Running Light is not working, I believe this circuit is also connected to the inside high beam light indicator, they are both not working. I have checked the fuses and also all the relays in the switch box inside the car as well as under the hood. I have also checked the two relays inside the plastic box next to the driver's side wheel and they seem to be good. When I looked at the owners Manuel the fuse, which is 15 amps, also serves as the high been light indicator. AutoZone can they check it through the code? Any suggestions.

I greatly appreciate every one comments to my answer. but I have not find out where the Daylight Running Light Module located is. Some one wrote that is it on the LH (Left Hand) front bumper brace. If I were sitting in the driver's seat LH (Left Hand) would be the driver's side and if I were facing the automobile from front the LH (Left Hand) would be the passenger's side. Kindly specify in detail, as I am somewhat novice. ALSO, is this Daylight Running Light Module has relay's inside? Or what it looks like and if it is between THE BUMBER AND RADIATOR OR AROUND THE LH BUMBER. Thanks!

Daylight Running Light Module is sealed and not serviceable.

http://i17.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/a0/ca/cc5c_1.JPG

I greatly appreciate every one comments to my answer. but I have not find out where the Daylight Running Light Module located is. Some one wrote that is it on the LH (Left Hand) front bumper brace. If I were sitting in the driver's seat LH (Left Hand) would be the driver's side and if I were facing the automobile from front the LH (Left Hand) would be the passenger's side. Kindly specify in detail, as I am somewhat novice. ALSO, is this Daylight Running Light Module has relay's inside? Or what it looks like and if it is between THE BUMBER AND RADIATOR OR AROUND THE LH BUMBER. Thanks!

I never have really understood why they run the DRL lamps at a reduced voltage, other than to extend lamp life. To me, it just looks crummy to see those lamps dimmed, and those lamps probably don't have their life extended by that much. Why not just close a relay to bring the lamps to full on? Wouldn't that be cheaper and more effective?

I greatly appreciate every one comments to my answer. but I have not find out where the Daylight Running Light Module located is. Some one wrote that is it on the LH (Left Hand) front bumper brace. If I were sitting in the driver's seat LH (Left Hand) would be the driver's side and if I were facing the automobile from front the LH (Left Hand) would be the passenger's side. Kindly specify in detail, as I am somewhat novice. ALSO, is this Daylight Running Light Module has relay's inside? Or what it looks like and if it is between THE BUMBER AND RADIATOR OR AROUND THE LH BUMBER. Thanks!

what it looks like
See post 10.

If you don't see it then simply trace the wires coming from the lights.

It's way down by the driver's side of the rad, on the frame I think.. try looking from underneath.. everyone should own a set of car ramps, nice plastic ones are inexpensive and a good investment..

It's way down by the driver's side of the rad, on the frame I think.. try looking from underneath.. everyone should own a set of car ramps, nice plastic ones are inexpensive and a good investment..

I'm not exactly sure I would trust a plastic car ramp. The plastic I've had experience with has been bad to split and cave in. In my opinion, something that is designed to hold up a 3500 pound chunk of iron known as a car absolutely must be made of iron itself. :nono: Knowing my luck I would unbox the ramps properly and pull my car onto it, and then about the time I climb underneath the car, one of the ramps would split, and down the car would come on top of me. :eek:

I'm not exactly sure I would trust a plastic car ramp
Not all plastic is created equal. Some plastics are stronger than metal :wink:

I'm not exactly sure I would trust a plastic car ramp. The plastic I've had experience with has been bad to split and cave in. In my opinion, something that is designed to hold up a 3500 pound chunk of iron known as a car absolutely must be made of iron itself. :nono: Knowing my luck I would unbox the ramps properly and pull my car onto it, and then about the time I climb underneath the car, one of the ramps would split, and down the car would come on top of me. :eek:

Since when are cars made of iron?? :screwy: A lot of cars these days don't even have iron blocks. I have used plastic ramps with no problems. I also have a set of metal ramps that are bending. In my opinion I don't see one to be better than the other.

Most cars I've seen, even today (and especially the better ones I've been around), still have ferrous body panels, even though the block may be aluminum. I guess how well plastic or metal ramps work depends on what you use it on (metal seems to work better on dirt and gravel, whereas I guess plastic is good on paved surfaces). Meanwhile, back at the ranch, :sleeping:let's get those daytime running lamps burning!

Yes, the weight figure I gave was probably a bit high. :grinyes: