1997 Gs-T Help

Okay, this is the situation. I recently got rid of my 97 eclipse Gs for a Gst. It was an even swap so I couldn't pass it up. The car was a virgin it was babied all its life and was never modified. It had a few "small" problems. So I thought it would be a great project car. Anyways the second gear is real touchy so i bought 1 qt. of redline heavy shockproof and 2 qt. of redline mtl and maybe that will fix that. My boost would cut out at 4500 rpm. I replaced the factory intake with an aftermarket one, when i did the vacuum hose that connected the BOV to the intake didn't fit properly so we ran it without it. Now that the BOV was venting to the atmosphere the boost worked almost perfect but it idled like crap. I'm thinking about using a MAF Translator so it will idle if that'll work. But that still leaves a unfiltered hole on the intake where the hose used to be. I put tape over the hole but stopping it up made the boost cut out again and the car started jerking every now and then. So then I tried to put a cloth over it for the time being so it would still pull in air but even that messed it up so what should I do about that. The car is also running rich and gets horrible gas mileage like 15 mpg. If anyone could help me out I would greatly appreciate it.

And please no smart a** answers like sell it and buy a rear wheel drive.

first of all, welcome to the forum. Secondly, i assure you no one here is gonna tell you to sell it and buy a rwd car so dont worry about that. I cant exactly figure out your problem, if you could post a pic mabey i could get a better idea. Although without a pic you will get a lot of responses, alot of the people here know a lot more than me.


PS. please post in the correct sub-forums.

are you serious? You are drawing in unmetered air and you're wondering why your car is running like shit???

maybe it's your tire pressure!

lol!!!! c,mon dude give em a break. lol:grinno:

I know that is why the idle is out of whack, could it be running rich because it isnt getting enough air in for the air/fuel mixture. If so could a MAF Translator fix the problem?

And please no smart a** answers like sell it and buy a rear wheel drive.
A rear wheel drive DSM?...




I think you meant to say an AWD DSM... lol :icon16:

your fuel trims are out of control. Running rich/lean, whatever, you can't diagnose it until you fix that. The ecu can do crazy things to try and correct any fuel trim errors.

It's probably a boost leak, a large one. The correct way to fix your problem is to
1. "tune" the BOV, I've described in detail how to do this before, search for it
2. plumb the BOV outlet back into the intake, if it won't fit your new intake, then put your old one back on.
3. run a boost leak test and fix the problems

The expensive and useless way is to buy a GM maf / translator (expensive) and to redo your upper intercooler pipe so that you can insert the new parts into there.

It's a no brainer...

your fuel trims are out of control. Running rich/lean, whatever, you can't diagnose it until you fix that. The ecu can do crazy things to try and correct any fuel trim errors.

It's probably a boost leak, a large one. The correct way to fix your problem is to
1. "tune" the BOV, I've described in detail how to do this before, search for it
2. plumb the BOV outlet back into the intake, if it won't fit your new intake, then put your old one back on.
3. run a boost leak test and fix the problems

The expensive and useless way is to buy a GM maf / translator (expensive) and to redo your upper intercooler pipe so that you can insert the new parts into there.

It's a no brainer...

but maft lets you vent to atmosphere ;)
oh wait he's already doing that.

i did connect the hose from the intake to the BOV anyways even though it was hard to make it fit and it still did the same problem with the boost as it did before so that wont fix it

you need to connect that hose or you will have this problem there is no way around it unless you buy an after market bov and tighten it down not to leak or put that tube back on...

there is no point in trying to vent unless you are going to do it right. My bov is recirculalted and its quite loud. Its a greddy type s.

Alright, at least you aren't venting anymore. As for your problem, you need to explain what you mean by "cut out". What does your boost gauge tell you when that happens? Have you done a leak check? You aren't running platinum or iridium plugs are you? Do you have a way to monitor your O2 voltage? I'm asking about the front O2 because you said that your gas mileage sucked.

Iridium plugs would work in a DSM (not ideal, but it's what I used to run)...

have you tried plugging in another MAF? your's might not be working properly

Are all of your other vacuum hoses hooked up???
When your boost "cuts out" does it feel like you hit a brick wall? (if so, look up fuel cut)

And like everyone else has said, NO Venting BOV unless you spend $$$ to do it right... Make sure that you have no nipples open, or cracked hoses, any leak in the intake will cause your car to do funny things... (look up boost leak, VFAQ has a writeup on how to make a boost leak tester)

When you get on the gas, does your car blow black smoke???(if so, refer to the comment above^, it'll be a boost leak... and that'll cause fuel cut...)


P.S.-Subforums (this should be under "Problem Diagnosis")

The check engine light did come on and it said fuel trim bank 2, how would you fix that and as for the "cutting out" with the turbo spooled at 4500 rpm it feels like hitting the brakes lightly and the gauge says that it's still spooling all the way. It also blows black smoke when shifting.

all turbo cars blow black smoke when shifting... get a new vac line to fit the BOV to Manifold, and then :1: for trying a new MAFT, yours is probably FU*KED! also, do the boost leak test! (its worth every second you spend doing it) :2cents:

EDIT: Do it in this order:
1) Vac line from BOV to Intake Manifold
2) Boost Leak Test
*you'll probably find the problem by now*
3) New MAFT (Blow-through setup if you must insist!)

ok y dont u just go to the hardware store and buy a rubber cap/plug to put over the whole on ur intake and that will take care of it idleing like shit, and u dont need to have the BOV route back into the intake it does nothing.

Wow kid your about to get hell from these guys for saying that. You obviously dont know anything about how these cars function. And yes you have to run your BOV back to the intake. The computer reads how much air is sucked into the turbo and adds fuel accordingly. So when you "vent" your BOV you are letting air escape that has already been seen by the computer. So it adds fuel and you end up getting less air in the combustion chamber so you run rich.

ok y dont u just go to the hardware store and buy a rubber cap/plug to put over the whole on ur intake and that will take care of it idleing like shit, and u dont need to have the BOV route back into the intake it does nothing.

Hey NewB, plz go read...

VFAQ
Intro thread
DSMtuners also has some very informative info


And one last thing... If you have no evidence to substantiate your "theory" (i.e. "u dont need to have the BOV route back into the intake it does nothing.") than please do not post. You could relay mis-information to someone and would then be flamed by the entire E/C/L forum...

Thank you, that is all

The check engine light did come on and it said fuel trim bank 2, how would you fix that
That code (from what I've read) has a couple different potential causes.
The code itself usually means the front O2 sensor is dead. Meaning that the car is running rich, so much that the ECU can no longer correct the problem (sounds like a boost leak.... fix that BOV and hole)... You need to fix why it's running rich, and then replace the front O2 sensor (or at least clean it, but that's usually only a bandaid fix)
and as for the "cutting out" with the turbo spooled at 4500 rpm it feels like hitting the brakes lightly and the gauge says that it's still spooling all the way.
Sounds like your turbo is trying to spool more than the boost it's set at, opening the wastegate. That's the way it should work, the lack of power comes from the car being so rich (unmetered air)

It also blows black smoke when shifting.
You're venting the BOV and leaking in the intake tract... It's going to


Fix those leaks, then reset the ECU... if that code comes back, replace the O2...

GL

Edit: The code that everyone else was getting was for bank 1, there's a train of thought that the MAF could also be a problem, but IMHO, it sounds like a massive leak, at least in this case.

Well, if you are venting your BOV and haven't plugged the hole on the intake, that is most likely the cause of your CEL. Under cruise / idle, the huge hole in your intake is sucking in all kinds of extra, unmetered air. This is causing the ECU to think you are extrememly lean and it attempts to compensate by increasing the FT's. Once it hits it's pre-programmed adjustment limit and can't compensate further, you get the "Fuel Trim Malfunction, Bank 1" CEL.

Stop venting your BOV and then come talk to us.


ok y dont u just go to the hardware store and buy a rubber cap/plug to put over the whole on ur intake and that will take care of it idleing like shit, and u dont need to have the BOV route back into the intake it does nothing.

As for you, I'm normally a nice guy, but you are starting to piss me off. Stop talking like a 3rd grader and don't post misinformation on this board. You are completely wrong and need to shut the hell up.

The BOV is routed back into the intake, because the MAS has already metered the airflow. Go and dump the air that the ECU is going to inject fuel for and now you are running rich.

The front O2 sensor is new so that isnt the problem with it running rich.

The front O2 sensor is new so that isnt the problem with it running rich.
BOV vent IS a big problem! fix that, then find the leaks in your ICP! :banghead: people are here telling you exactly what to do, and your ignoring them!?!? just quit being lazy and fix that damn thing! so the front o2 sensor is new Eh? well, its going to be fu*ked if you dont fix this "running rich" (Venting BOV/Boost leak) problem... i dont get why someone would ask for help, then ignore the answers they asked for :screwy:

ban

How about this... Start trying some of these things to find out what the problem is. You have so much good information here for you to get started, that there is no reason to not have this problem fixed in a day tops...

I didnt say that venting my BOV was NOT a big problem. and i'm not ignoring you i was just saying that the O2 sensor was new so buying another one probably wont fix the fuel trim bank 2 problem. As for doing a boost leak test I will do it when I can get around to it. And I do appreciate all the information that you have provided me with.

Unless you have a V-6 or V-8, there is no way you are getting a Fuel Trim Malfunction, Bank 2 CEL.

Did you get the CEL code read at Autozone or something like that? If you did that we could probably point you in a better direction of the problem.

Sorry I had it wrong I was thinking it was Bank 2 but it was Bank 1.yeah I had the CEL checked at autozone and that was what it was saying. I did make the boost leak tester and tried it. There was no obvious leaks. I think the lower mesh IC pipe was leaking. I'm not 100% sure though. It was making a slight hissing noise. When the car was running the pipe could easily be squeezed like there was no pressure in it, is that normal?

You really need to take care of all leaks. It's best to spray eveything down with soap and water and start from there. What did you pressurize the intake to? Did you attach the tester to the compressor housing, or LICP? How long did you boost gauge take to drop to 0?

First of all the tester was connected to the turbo where the intake was. The only thing I had to pressurize the intake with that would work was a 60 gallon compressor that was putting out about 65 psi. We held it on the tester for a second or two but it wasnt building up any pressure and the boost gauge wouldnt move. So we gradually kept putting more air in it to see if it would retain any of the air and it wouldnt. We went ahead, since it seem like it wouldnt hurt the engine, and kept it on and listened for leaks. And that's when we noticed the lower ICP.

First of all the tester was connected to the turbo where the intake was. The only thing I had to pressurize the intake with that would work was a 60 gallon compressor that was putting out about 65 psi. We held it on the tester for a second or two but it wasnt building up any pressure and the boost gauge wouldnt move. So we gradually kept putting more air in it to see if it would retain any of the air and it wouldnt. We went ahead, since it seem like it wouldnt hurt the engine, and kept it on and listened for leaks. And that's when we noticed the lower ICP.

you took the intake off and connected it to the turbo inlet (right?) plz tell me you didn't connect it to the rubber intake hose, it wouldn't hold pressure then.

If the boost gauge wouldn't move and the car wouldn't hold any pressure, you have serious leaks

yeah it was mounted directly to the turbo inlet when i did it.