1995 lumina wont run after rolling car

I bought a 1995 lumina that was involved in a roll over. They parked the car for a yr and then sold it to me. I tryed to start it before pulling the engine. I cannot get it to fire. I used a spark tester and there is NO spark. I happen to have another module w/coils so i layed it on the engine and transfered wires and still no spark. I know some fords the fuel pump needs to be reset after a roll. any ideas what i should check to get spark? thanks

It might have shorted a fusable link and there is no power going to the coil pack/mod .

Ok, Thanks for the info. Heres what I did now. I unhooked the module on the end with one plug. I check for voltage and found there to be 11.8 volts to the module. Yet I tryed another module and still no spark. Whats next? thanks

If the front passenger side corner was damaged in the rollover, then the ECM is probably damaged. It is mounted in the passenger side fender just forward of the wheel well behind the passenger side headlamp assembly.

Not sure if you have inertia switch, which disconects during rollower as a preventive measure to stop fuel pump and prevent possible explosion. If you have that just press the red button and start it. :)

ok, i have checked everything i can. I am beginning to wonder if its the ecm as well. I have another out of a 95 lumina but am i opening up a new can of worms because these cars have a coded key? i think that has something to do with the ecm right? i remember changing a steering colum in a 97 lumina and when i got done it wouldnt even turn over cause the key didnt match the computer. am i right on this? thanks

Your 95 uses a hybrid OBD-I type PCM that requires programming, so you cannot just swap the ECM/prom from another vehicle. Call a dealer and see if you can have the replacement re-flashed to your car's vin.

There is no inertia switch on domestic GM vehicles. Those vehicles which have them (specifically Fords) interrupt the fuel pump circuit with the switch, not the ignition, AFAIK.

Even though you have 12V at the pink wire to the ICM (the ICM MUST have 12V on the pink wire from the 15A ELEC/IGN fuse, regardless of power on any other wire), verify the integrity of the connection at the ICM itself. There are aftermarket replacement connectors available for this connection because they are subject to corrosion and failure.

Verify a good ground on the base of the ignition coil module. I've had a few of those that would not run with corrosion between the mounting plate and ICM base.

If power and ground are present, verify both the cam position sensor (CMP) signal at the ICM, and the both crank position sensor (CKP) signals at the ICM. The CMP should connect via the brown/white wire. The CKP connects via the yellow wire and light blue/white wire for both low- and high-resolution signals. Power and ground for both sensors are supplied via the red/black and white/black wires, respectively.

To my knowledge, if the ICM has power and ground, and the CMP and CKP signals are present, it should produce spark regardless of the PCM. The PCM can control the spark advance of the ICM via the tan/black wire, and senses the engine RPM via the white wire, but should not inhibit ignition. If the PCM and/or wire harness are grounded, however, I'm not sure whether that would kill ignition or not.