Rear brake pad install
02 Silver
05-19-2007, 01:10 AM
I started hearing a grinding sound in the rear when I applied the brakes so I bought pads to do a rear job. I noticed that the passenger side inside pad was worn to nothing and the inside rotor was scorched pretty bad. The outside was fine with plenty of pad - as were the pads on the drivers side.
What would cause only one pad to wear premature versus the others?? Also I started this job in the middle of the driveway and my wife had to go to the store. I moved the truck and applied the brakes with the pads out. :shakehead Can I get the piston back in without bleeding the system??
Thanks for your help!!
What would cause only one pad to wear premature versus the others?? Also I started this job in the middle of the driveway and my wife had to go to the store. I moved the truck and applied the brakes with the pads out. :shakehead Can I get the piston back in without bleeding the system??
Thanks for your help!!
rjeffery
05-19-2007, 04:40 AM
Not sure on the premature wear, but use a C-clamp to compress the piston.
jtc001
05-19-2007, 07:04 AM
Generally, if one pad is worn the the other is fine, the caliper is not "floating" correctly. The caliper should have enough free movement and both pads will wear evenly. Check to see that the caliper can move on the bolts that hold it in. Also check to see that where the caliper is touching the housing, there are no restrictions. Use only disk brake caliper lubricant, as it can withstand the high temps generated by a disk brake (available at most auto parts stores in a small tube).
You will need to address the scorched rotor. Make sure that whatever you do to one side, you do to the other. If you have one rotor turned, turn the other. If you replace the pads on one side, replace them on the other side (even if one side is fine). I'm not a big fan of turning rotors, I would rather replace them. The biggest problem I have is warped rotors (vibration when you hit the brakes), and the problem usually reappears in a short time.
You may not have to bleed the brakes if the cylinder did not come out. I would bleed the brakes, as it changes out some of the brake fluid, a good idea.
You will need to address the scorched rotor. Make sure that whatever you do to one side, you do to the other. If you have one rotor turned, turn the other. If you replace the pads on one side, replace them on the other side (even if one side is fine). I'm not a big fan of turning rotors, I would rather replace them. The biggest problem I have is warped rotors (vibration when you hit the brakes), and the problem usually reappears in a short time.
You may not have to bleed the brakes if the cylinder did not come out. I would bleed the brakes, as it changes out some of the brake fluid, a good idea.
02 Silver
05-19-2007, 08:58 AM
I bought one new rotor from Autozone when I bought the pads. Are you saying I need to replace the other rotor also? I think I will replace the pads on both sides, c-clamp the piston and see how she runs.
I took the parking brakes shoes out since they were long gone. I bet I will need another rotor simply because of these e-brake designs. I will drive for a while before I replace them and need an inspection.
Thanks a ton for your help!!
I took the parking brakes shoes out since they were long gone. I bet I will need another rotor simply because of these e-brake designs. I will drive for a while before I replace them and need an inspection.
Thanks a ton for your help!!
jtc001
05-19-2007, 02:50 PM
Everything I've ever done on brakes, I've done to both sides on the same axle. You may have consistent pads, but the rotors are now different. THey will be different thicknesses, and that may cause a difference in heat disappation. One may be a higher quality steel than the other.
As for the e-brake, I agree that it is poorly designed. I purchased new ebrakes from the dealer, not knowing that they could be adjusted.
As for the e-brake, I agree that it is poorly designed. I purchased new ebrakes from the dealer, not knowing that they could be adjusted.
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