transsport 3.8 wheel alignment

Can anybody please tell me the alignments:
Caster, Camber and toe-in/out?

I just asked a local shop the fix my alignment and after that, driving sucks.
Driving straight is a hard job now.
When I asked the shop what they did, they said they couldn't find the transsport in their database so they used the Chrysler Van 3.8
Now they tell me to get the right alignment stuff.

Thanks very much in advance!!

DIrect from the '93 shop manual (applies 90-96)
www.avigex.ca/xport/alignment3a5.jpg
NOw you do not have much control on caster..this depends on bushings conditions and I've never touched that..the bolts are inside the frame and if you have to compensate for worn rubber, it means they need replaceement...
Camber is at risk whenever the strut shock absorber is replaced. ANd honestly, I make marks or take photos of adjustment position anad reinstall the same. If I goofed, it shows clearly...so have not much problem making this straightened: it shows at a glance .
TOe in is where I use a little trick: I find a level place...where I can drive in straight line, at low speed, first on a stretch of clean alphalt....then after, keep steering steady, continue with a tire on one side , generally the right one, passing over sand (i prefer sand deposit over the asphalt...but moving the right side on the curb..provided it is level with the asphalt..will do)...: if toe is not zero, the tire on asphalt will pull the car where it points, the other one loosing grip. (right side on sand, car pulls left, you have toe out, pulls right: you have toe in) .IF car continues in straight line, toe is correct.
Repeat this a few times and you cannot get wrong....and YOU have control on the job. This test reveals easily within one half turn of tie rod adjustment...and this is within specs...and if you have to accept err, make in on the "in" side. Toe out is awfully unstable.

Thanks very much LMP.

Saturday I went back with a print of your info. I asked them to put 0 and absolutely no toe out.

Now it drive perfect staddy!

Thanks again!

Hard to believe an alignment shop would not know that almost every fwd vehicle with rack and pinion is set to 0 toe!

As far as I know is it normal to have toe-out with frontwheeldrive cars?! Me was told (and is assumable) that the force on the wheels will turn them in when they are driven. That's why normaly toe-in is for rearwheeldrive cars. The force of the rearwheels will turn the front wheels out. So to compensate....toe-in! So the shop assumed toe-out for my car.
Well, the shop is allso wrong! They assumed something to get rid of the guy with the American car as quickly as possible. They rather like car's that are in their database witch costs them less time.

As far as I know is it normal to have toe-out with frontwheeldrive cars?! Me was told (and is assumable) that the force on the wheels will turn them in when they are driven. That's why normaly toe-in is for rearwheeldrive cars. The force of the rearwheels will turn the front wheels out. So to compensate....toe-in! So the shop assumed toe-out for my car.
Well, the shop is allso wrong! They assumed something to get rid of the guy with the American car as quickly as possible. They rather like car's that are in their database witch costs them less time.

Great, now can someone help with my 3.4L, 1997 TP?