no fluid to rear calipers

I bought this car last week 93 Ford sho. there was no fluid in the RES. When I got the car ( I have no idea why) I filled the RES. The brakes go to the floor. I put new caliper on the front and back went to bleed them and there is no fluid getting to the rear calipers. I did bleed the fron and they seem to work sorta. I went for a drive and brake pedal still goes to the floor and car pulls to right and then it seems like left caliper kicks in but at any rate they don't work good like they should. I I hit brakes had they feel good for a split second the go straight to the floor and cars continues on but like I said for a second the car feels like it should when you jamm them on. There is no leak for sure I am not loosing fluid just not stopping and no fluid to rear brakes. Booster is working fine. Car off and pump brake pedal gets hard. Start car and pedal will fall to the floor. Thats a booster test right? Any ideas what to check for??????

Welcome to the forum!

Does your '93 SHO have ABS? How many times did you pump the brake pedal with a rear bleeder screw opened to make sure there isn't just a ton of air in the lines?

You may want to pick up a set of Speed Bleeders for the rear, then you can just pump the brake pedal while monitoring the master cylinder fluid level. If the level starts to go down, you know fluid is coming out somewhere, and it's probably through the Speed Bleeders.

-Rod

before I bought the bleeder screws I tried to look into it a bit mor there is a box at rear of car. It has the two lines coming from up front into it then 2 line going to the wheels. I cracked open the lines comeing in and going out fluid coming from both. So I think I must not have bled them enought.Yes four wheel ABS. In rebleeding it seems a line popped one of the line coming to the rear. I think the box is that thing that cut fluid to the rear wheels so they don't lock up if you hit the brakes hard. Don't think any of my other cars had this.Maybe my 96 bronco XLT but never seen it. Anyhoo I am going to have tyo replace lines. Can I just run the lines from where ever they come from in the front(looks like goes from m/c to the abs booster? to something else that brakes them out to 2 lines to front and 2 to back. Can I run the to reart lines from this point in the front straight to the rear caliper and just eliminate that box in the back?

Shorod I am going to put the speed bleeders in though.( hard to blled brakes w/girlfriend..hehe she seems to not under stand release pump and apply...but she's a sweet heart. This is what I get for buying a car without hearing it run or drivng it..but over all good car.

I believe the box you are referring to is to proportion the rear brakes based on suspension load. You don't want to bypass it.

-Rod

When you attempted to bleed the rears, was the car sitting level?? Or was one side jacked up????

The car was up on ramps. Also I always bled brakes with engine off. Should it be running? I ask becouse I had a line bust when I was tring to bleed them the other day. I was going to replace the whole line but if you follow the line back to the front of the engine where it goes to first, following from rear to front. I couldn't get to the bolt that easy so the rest of the line looks okay for now. I just cut the piece out that had the leak and replaced it (double flare ends arn't as easy as it sounds) Long story short with car off I went to re-bleed and the pedal get s super hard(as it should right?) Even when bleeder screw is open pedals stays hard, it should go to the floor right? Shorod I did get the speed bleeders all for but messed one up Over tighted!!!!The speed bleeder are a little longer and must be made of a much softer material the threads on bleeder screw are gone but caliper threads are fine. So care running or off? Can I ever get the pedal hard again?

Bleeding the brakes with the engine off should be fine. You are correct though, with the bleeder screws open, the pedal should go to the floor and fluid should come out the bleeders. Not sure what to suggest next....

-Rod

So I take it the car is, was not level?? Front or rear up on ramps?? Or both??? I was told by a Ford tech that if the car is not level when bleeding an abs system, there is a chance that the valve, proportioning I believe, can actually cut the flow of brake fluid to the rears, no matter how hard you push the pedal, it ain't going down.. I'll try to hook up with this guy to get a definitive answer, make sure it's correct.. also if this situation did occur, the valve may need to be replaced, however it's possible it may re-center itself.. I need to get the info straight myself, don't take for now as gospel...

The rear brake lines are probally shot if they were anything like mine. I coudlnt push anything thru them at all. And I installed all new hardlines, and had new calipers. The lines will collapse internally, and you can't always tell by looking at them. Keep an eye on your resivour and keep him nice and full when you change em. ACtually jack the rear UP when you change em so the fluid wont go all over the place. Then put it back down to bleed it. Or.. you can put a block of wood underneath the 2 rear control arms and kinda cheat that proportioning valve. You can also do it with a peice of wire or a zip tie as well. :) Those hoses are like 20 bux a peice, and make sure to get new crush washers when you put em on. :) Good luck!

Thanks for the help guys. Brakes are good now. One of the rubber hoses (left rear) must have had a block in it. There was like no fluid coming out so even with the speed bleeder I wanted to watch the rear bleed by eye. I had to enlist the G/F for some help again I told her to push the pedal and let me know when it down, well she pushed it all right I think it hit the floor and she wanted to see just how hard the floor is becouse she was pushing and then I herd POP and I know that sound sure enough front flex hose went...I set know though.....I have another Qaustion should I start another thred??? I think so....right not sure how it works in here...lol when does the AF newby thing change....?

No need to start a new thread since you are still discussing topics related to the original post, and the thread is not very old.

Your "newbie" rating will turn to regular at either 50 or 100 posts, but please don't start posting just to get your count up. That will be in violation of the forum Guidelines (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/guidelines.html) and then I'll have to send you a nasty gram, etc.

-Rod