civic won't start

i need help i have tried everything that i know.. i have a 89 civic hatchback auto w/140,000 miles, The timing belt went out (even though the guy i got it from said he changed it about 10,000 miles ago) I changed the belt and the water pump and it wouldnt start. i shot every wire in the system and components. the fuel injector isnt getting power when i turn the key over to start the car but when i turn the key for the accessories the injector is getting power. changed the main relay, ecu (it was giving of a funny reading it wasnt constant) and it still wont start. this is the first civic, 4 cylinder that i have ever owned. if anyone has an idea i wil try anything at this point.
thanks

Do a compression check. You might have a bent/broken valve.

already did a compression test and the compression is good. can't remember what the limits are because i did it about a month ago. but it passed with flying colors. thanks for your input anything helps at this point. thanks

Usual is around 145-150 I think, but if it was a bent/broken valve, you wouldn't have gotten anything. Don't know what else to tell you other than make sure you check the little things, thats what it usually ends up being is something you was sure was done and wasn't.

Sorry to hear about all the problems you have faced. As Tony mentioned 145-150 is ideal compression, but I have personally witnessed them starting at 70 though they were not long for this world at that point.
On a darker note I have seen engines with the T-Belt one or more teeth off pass a compression test with flying colors. Not sure if you know, but the civics of that year had two different timing marks for the camshaft, the Std and HF models use the two linear marks on the cam pulley as they line up with the valve cover surface on the head (While "UP" was on the upper side of the pulley) and the Si model uses the one mark that lines up with the inner timing belt cover pointer. That having been said the Honda Service manual does not mention any diagnostic step in which the RED/BLK injector power wire should be tested for voltage in the START position. (pg. 11-102). If you have battery voltage in the ON position then you're good to go. I personally would check my timing marks again however here's some fun facts about the injectors:
HF and Si injectors: 1.5- 2.5 Ohms
Std injectors: 6-10 Ohms
If you measure less than 1 volt between the injector wires at the ECU and chassis ground then there is either a problem with the injector wires or the ECU ground wires. GOOD LUCK

Thanks for your help i'll give it a try and let you guys know what happens.