Clear coat question..

this being my first post bear with me..

I am building a WRC subaru (monte carlo 05' To be exact)

now I have just finished polishing the body and am applying Scale motorsport CF to the spoiler, mirrors, and the chin lip... after this may I apply the clear coat with no ill affects?

Now I have sprayed the car with Tamiya mica blue from the can and am planning to use the tamiya TS-13 clear, will this clear be okay? And I have a smooth surface that has a good shine now can i expect another polish with the clear coat?

all of this before applying the livery decals.

any suggestions seasoned vets to ease my foward progress?

Thank you in advance..

Paint, clear, decals (CF and livery), clear again but not TS-13, polishing, that's how I would do.
Try this clear, it does not "eat" decals click me! (http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=48_76&products_id=797)

oh jeez something that wouldnt require an airbrush for me right now...

and the livery i would like over the clear it doesnt look right under the clear IMO.

thank you for your response I should have been more specific.

anyone else?

BTW this kit from tamiya is a great iteration however I was wondering about the hasegawa subaru's of 2005 has anyone had any experience with one?
maybe a link to a review!?

thank you once again..

off to RBR again:naughty:

I always do the same way - wash the body, primer, layers of paint, decals, clear. Carbon look much more realictic under the coat of Tamiya Smoke or Clear, the same with sponsor decals - under the clear you don't see the borders of the decals and it's realistic in this scale, because on the real racing car you can see the borders of the livery only touching the car body with your nose :grinyes:

ok very well I will do that then..

Uh you say the decals are fine under the clear from tamiya?

I dont have an airbrush as of yet and would like to know what clear would be best for the situation?

Paint, clear, decals (CF and livery), clear again but not TS-13, polishing, that's how I would do.
Try this clear, it does not "eat" decals click me! (http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=48_76&products_id=797)

thank you once again but maybe another suggestion that can be used out of a can.... I know, I know... I will make do with what I have... I promise pictures will follow!

There sure is, this one (http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=48_76&products_id=421)

this being my first post bear with me..
I am building a WRC subaru (monte carlo 05' To be exact)
now I have just finished polishing the body and am applying Scale motorsport CF to the spoiler, mirrors, and the chin lip... after this may I apply the clear coat with no ill affects?
Now I have sprayed the car with Tamiya mica blue from the can and am planning to use the tamiya TS-13 clear, will this clear be okay? And I have a smooth surface that has a good shine now can i expect another polish with the clear coat?
all of this before applying the livery decals.
any suggestions seasoned vets to ease my foward progress?
Thank you in advance..

The right way would be:
1)removing the mould marks...etc. Sanding, filling with putty
2)Applying Tamiya base (white or grey) and sanding smoothly
3)Checking the surface, perhaps would need more putty/sanding
4)Applying two coats of paint, sanding between them
5)Applying all the decals including CF ones
6)Applying a good sealer varnish, Gunze Sangyo is the best, will protect the decals.
7)Polyurethane clearcoating, will not affect the paint or decals because the Gunze will protect them.
8)Sanding and polishing the surface with an appropriate compound

This is a wish list about what you should do, you can skip step 7 and use Tamiya in 6, but be careful here, a heavy Tamiya clear coat :nono: could affect the decals.

Obviously if you want to keep things easier :screwy: just should do few steps of the above listed :smokin:

I almost always use a clear coat over my decals but I tend to shy away from Tamiya TS13 because of problems I've had in the past. Not only has it attacked decals but several weeks or months down the road, the clear coat has cracked. I normally use Testors Model Master lacquer (silver can with purple stripe) with good result. It takes longer to dry but levels out very well and has a very glossy finish.

Mike

6)Applying a good sealer varnish, Gunze Sangyo is the best, will protect the decals.


Could you post a link to this Gunze product? (So that I can see what the can looks like:frown: )
Thanks
Steve

Could you post a link to this Gunze product? (So that I can see what the can looks like:frown: )
Thanks
Steve

Here a list at HLJ, the TOPCOAT products are very good, and resist perfectly the polyurethane lacquer


http://www.hlj.com/hljlist2/?Maker1=GNZ&MacroType=PntSpy&GenreCode=Sup&Dis=2

Here a list at HLJ, the TOPCOAT products are very good, and resist perfectly the polyurethane lacquer


http://www.hlj.com/hljlist2/?Maker1=GNZ&MacroType=PntSpy&GenreCode=Sup&Dis=2
Sorry to bother you again... but are TS paints polyurethane lacquers? What about 2k clears?
More directly, what paints (that are modeling paints) are polyurethane lacquers?
Thanks again,
Steve

thanks guys I got the Mr hobby clear we will see on the days off how it works out... this is my first car model and it is proving to be challenging and also fun!
lots of things learned on this great forum!

I have som pretty crappy pictures of progress so ill give you two..
I know this is not the right section but why start a thread for two pictures..http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/dasweetie88/spoiler.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/dasweetie88/bottom.jpg

Start a thread.

This isn't the right place for progress shots unless they are directly related to the issue - in this case clear paints.

alrighty then thanks...