Ok, I've had it, Ranger going to dealer!

I have diagnosed this for 2 years, my 97 Ranger 4X4 is finally at the dealer getting checked out. They are doing a diagnostic smoke test to see why the check engine light is on and I'm getting 12 mpg. This will be interesting! :banghead:

Dealer called. At this point, either blown head gasket $989.00 or cracked cylinder head $2100.00. They are pulling it apart now to see where they are at. Since I just put $850.00 in the replacement of the front 4X4 hubs, I pretty much need to fix it rather than punt. They said it is dumping coolant on the #3 cylinder so it's running on 5 cylinders. No wonder I only paid $3000 on the truck.

There should've been tell tale indications if the problem was indieed blown gasket or cracked head. #1. You would've been adding coolant a lot more often. #2. A simple compression test or a cylinder balance test could've clarified the matter. Cracked cylinder means a new or reconditioned block. Blown head gasket could be between cylinders or by a single cylinder. I assumed it is a V6. Note that wahtever they do to the engine, other related parts such as valves, pistons, bearings, etc. may need looking at. It may be simpler and perhaps less expesnive to get a rebuilt long block. Good luck.

Tell tale sign, was the coolant resavoir had 1/4 in it, no power at 60+, and 12 mpg. 5 shops told me not to worry about the "check engine light". It gave an "EVAP" code.I decided to let the dealer look at it and I'm glad I did. I had no overheating problems though. A cracked cylinder head doesn't mean a cracked block. All I have to replace is the head. The new head comes with the valves and springs already in it. Dealer called back and the exhaust bolts won't come out, they are going to soak it overnight. He thinks it is just the head gasket. I hope he's right.:banghead:

did he say something about magnafluxing the old head? if he didnt take it to a new shop.


magnafluxing is how they test to see if the head is still good.

Good point e-powers. Five mechanics telling you not to worry about the CEL makes me wonder the quality of auto tech help nowadays. You were correct in saying that a cracked head does not necessarily mean a cracked block however, something caused that head to crack so while you got the head out might as well maganflux the block.

Got the head off, no visable damage. Slight warpage. They are taking it to a machine shop to resurface it and magnaflux it. Looks like a $50 charge here rather than a new head. I was always happy with the power output of this truck, just not the fuel economy. Can't wait to see how it runs on all 6 cylinders! The auto shops I was at before getting this figured out will never see my business again! Going to the dealership may be more $$$$, but they got it right!

Ok, got it back, and it runs like a new truck! Well it should, the heads were resurfaced and new gaskets. Also, some idiot had put a gasket over another gasket causing a leak and head warpage. E Powers, the code was P1443. Anyway, the piston compression test was even on all cylinders, all injectors working, so everything is good now. The power the truck has is unbelievable, remeber, I have been running on 5 cylinders all this time! The price? $1463.44, but since I got it at an auction for $3300, I can put some $$$ in it. I was gonna ditch this truck and get something else, but glad I stayed with it. I'm hoping my mileage goes up to 17 from the 12 I used to get.

good deal, i found out rps is open for registration. http://www.rangerpowersports.com/welcome/ and there will be more stuff listed to increase in most cases power ans gas mileage.

either way stick around and learn stuff, help others and make friends.

oh googled that code. it deals with the purge canister it may pop up again. it isnt related to the head gasket and may not affect the running of the truck. if the dealer didn't fix it and if it pops up again the fix is here http://www.obdii.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/002192.html

Ok. truck runs great! However, now I don't have heat! A/C works great. Could they have unplugged something or forgot to re attatch something? The heat worked fine before.

take it back to them and have them fix it. if they wont then
might need to be burped of air. remove the radiator cap when it is cold and let it warm up. lightly rev the engine after it warms up and watch for air bubbles to come up. then check the hoses to the heater core. see if they are warm. there is also a heater control valve. and i think vacuum controls. any of which would affect the operation of the heater.

Took it to dealer. Heater core is good, hoses get hot. It turns out the heater box that switches it from cold/hot for the AC or heater, door is stuck in the "cold AC" position. Dealer told me dash has to be removed to fix it, and it will be $1100. I am getting upset again.............

if it worked fine before they touched it used that. to me if something worked fine before a mechanic touched it then it is their fault.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0b/9b/01/0900823d800b9b01/repairInfoPages.htm

Get back to the mechanic who did the job and raise hell. as e-power pointed out, it worked before and they must've done something to screw it up. $1100.00 to do the job? I've done a similar job before and there's really nothing to it except that they may simply replace the mechanism instead of repairing. Reminded me of when a mechanic was charging me $448.00 to install a new upper manifold on my 99 4.0L Ranger when I had to do was to replace the "O" ring which cost me $15.00 plus a couple of hours of my time.
Just like politicians, one can never trust automobile mechanics (not all but many).

try this. With a/c on try switching temp from one extreme to the other. any change will indicate that your temp blend door actuator is working and the problem isn't there. If no change occurs then you're just out of luck. By the way its not always the mechanics fault sometimes other things malfunction while at the dealership.

Talked to the dealer. They say it had nothing to do with replacing the head gasket and it's not their fault. I can't believe this happened. E powers, your link is for the blower motor. The blower motor is fine. It is just stuck on Air Conditioning side and not heat. I guess there is a little door that goes back and forth?:banghead:

Try what i suggested. I can't remember if you have to remove the dash for this particular model but I can look it up. Did the dealer specify if it was the actuator(motor) or the blend door? If its the blend door then the dash would have to be removed, but the actuator can be replaced(in some ford models) without having to remove the dash.

Thanks Carlos, that worked. Not sure, maybe it has been this way for awhile. I was checking things out since it was in the shop. I will see how consistent it switches back and forth. It just may take a few mins for the pressure to build up and switch it?

there was more then the blower5 motor in that link. it is only online manuel i know.

Truck going back to the stealer. Check engine light has popped on twice now. First time I thought I would give it a break and unplug the battery to clear it. Drove about 10 miles and it came right back on. Also, with cleaned up heads and gaskets, it went from 12 mpg to 12.6. Not what I was hoping for. I will never buy another Ranger.:banghead:

good deal, i found out rps is open for registration. http://www.rangerpowersports.com/welcome/ and there will be more stuff listed to increase in most cases power ans gas mileage.

either way stick around and learn stuff, help others and make friends.

oh googled that code. it deals with the purge canister it may pop up again. it isnt related to the head gasket and may not affect the running of the truck. if the dealer didn't fix it and if it pops up again the fix is here http://www.obdii.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/002192.html if it is the same code as last time change the purge canister Solenoid

I changed the purge canister solenoid a year ago, it was $80. Funny thing is, when it was at the stealer, they said it needed to be replaced again. I let them do it, so I doubt that was ever it in the first place.

well did they check the purge canister?

I changed the purge canister solenoid a year ago, it was $80. Funny thing is, when it was at the stealer, they said it needed to be replaced again. I let them do it, so I doubt that was ever it in the first place.

I bet they didn't. I had a so called reputable shop fail me on our state safety inspection saying I needed a new inner tie rod. He was really upset when I told him to "show me how it's bad". We'll he took me back and could barely move the tire and said "See how loose it is". Anyways, I took it to another place and they said it looked better then some just replaced tie-rods.

My guess is they would have charged me and then not done a single thing.....

Best Regards,
Stan

Now the jerks are saying the code is the DPFE, p401, which I ALSO replaced last year. And they are charging me $285.00 to replace it. What a crock! I am so pissed, I will NEVER go back there again, nor will I buy a Ranger. What a piece of crap! I think they designed that CEL to get peoples money.

it is a 10 year old truck parts are going to wear out. take it to a different mechanic. report this one to bbb

for the fix

http://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2/archive/index.php/t-10857.html

Now the jerks are saying the code is the DPFE, p401, which I ALSO replaced last year.

I had mine replaced at around 40K and it's still fine at 92K. Dealer charged me about $275. A few months later I figured out where the part was and it is so easy to replace. Take two hoses off and a few screws. Maybe the vacuum hoses going to it are cracked and/or leaking. Good luck!

I want to know why they charged me $280 for a job that takes 5 minutes or less to do. The labor charge was $90.

I want to know why they charged me $280 for a job that takes 5 minutes or less to do. The labor charge was $90.
hate to say this but there is a reason they are known as stealerships.