Timing a 1998 Chevy 5.7L K1500

Ok here is the deal. I blew another lower intake manifold gasket ( twice now with 149,000 miles) and thought I would do it myself this time. I am not a pro mechanic by any means but have worked on engines a while now. Got everything cleaned and installed but one mistake I did make was not marking distributor when I pulled it.:banghead: Figured it wouldn't be that hard to set the timing. The truck will not run at all. I rotated engine till tdc compression stroke, dropped distributor in with it pointing at cylinder 1 post on the cap. Set my valves and hoped it would run. Nope. Not even running crappy.

I have heard I need a Gm Tech 2 scanner to set the timing on this. Is this correct? If I do, should this engine at least run crappy without using a scanner? I get nothing at all. I have spark, compression, and fuel but apparantly not at the same time.

Pretty sure I messed up there on the timing,:grinyes: but I do know 2 guys that work from their home after they get off from the chevy dealer but I won't be able to get ahold of them till Friday. I am just wondering if I might have missed a connector somewhere, and that is why it won't at least run crappy. Or if it will not run at all without some reprogramming?

Any thoughts or idea's would be appreciated.

Ok here is the deal. I blew another lower intake manifold gasket ( twice now with 149,000 miles) and thought I would do it myself this time. I am not a pro mechanic by any means but have worked on engines a while now. Got everything cleaned and installed but one mistake I did make was not marking distributor when I pulled it.:banghead: Figured it wouldn't be that hard to set the timing. The truck will not run at all. I rotated engine till tdc compression stroke, dropped distributor in with it pointing at cylinder 1 post on the cap. Set my valves and hoped it would run. Nope. Not even running crappy.

I have heard I need a Gm Tech 2 scanner to set the timing on this. Is this correct? If I do, should this engine at least run crappy without using a scanner? I get nothing at all. I have spark, compression, and fuel but apparantly not at the same time.

Pretty sure I messed up there on the timing,:grinyes: but I do know 2 guys that work from their home after they get off from the chevy dealer but I won't be able to get ahold of them till Friday. I am just wondering if I might have missed a connector somewhere, and that is why it won't at least run crappy. Or if it will not run at all without some reprogramming?

Any thoughts or idea's would be appreciated.


If you set the dist rotor by looking at no 1 from the top of the cap it will be way off.
On the flat top caps the plug wire terminals in the cap crossover ever which way in it. Look at the cap from the bottom side and you will see..:grinyes:

Here is a link on how to set the dist.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=51302

That should get it close enough to start and run.

On the timing you can not set the timing.
It is timed off of the crankshaft sensor.

Turning the dist sets the camshaft retard setting which is centering the rotor to fire direct on or at the plug wire terminals.
But you will need the GM Tech 2 or a good high end pro engine capable scanner.
Get it on no 1 TDC compression and set the dist as outlined in the link.
Then after you get it started and running get someone with a good scanner to set the camshaft retard setting.
Good luck MT

Yeah you were right. I got it figured out about 10 minutes after posting my message.:) Truck is running good, I just need to finish adjusting the valve backlash. Lots of ticking going on. After that it's off to the oil pump.

Thanks for the reply though.

Ok I got the truck running and valves sounding pretty good. I think I missed one on the driver's side because I hear a slight tick. Not real bad but it bugs me. Anyway, when I started truck up I had 2 codes on my OBD readout. 102 ( I think) and 1345. I think 102 was a mass air flow sensor, can't remember exactly but I think it was from not having the 2 sensors in the air cleaner hooked up and the o2 sensor by the exhaust hooked up. I erased the codes but 1345 came up again right away. My Actron book doesn't list this code, so was wondering if anyone knew what it meant.

Truck seems to run fine, and sounds good ( except for the slight tick from the valve I missed) but I still have that engine code. Any thoughts or answers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Ok after some googling I came up with this.
Crankshaft Position (CKP)-Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation
What does this mean exactly? Is the distibutor off or is it fine and just needs a gm tech 2 scan tool hooked up? I am lost as to what to check. Maybe I missed a plug in somewhere? Again thanks in advance.

1345 code
It is the dist adjustment.
It centers the rotor to fire direct or straight on/at plug wire terminal.
Re read first post.

On the timing you can not set the timing.
It is timed off of the crankshaft sensor.

Turning the dist sets the camshaft retard setting which is centering the rotor to fire direct on or at the plug wire terminals.
But you will need the GM Tech 2 or a good high end pro engine capable scanner.
MT

The spec is 0 degrees if you want to know and look for Cam sensor retard in the data stream on the scan tool

I'll try to explain this as best I can. The CKP and CMP have to be within certain limits. The crank sensor is located in front of the block to detect crank position. The cam sensor is located in the distributor as it is driven by the cam. So, the code you're getting could mean the the dist is off a tooth or 2 one side or the other. If you put the distributor in exactly as the link "MT" gave you it will be close. Timing lights on these cars are a thing of the past. The high end scanners that can get into the "cam retard" or "cam offset" mode puts the VCM into "base timing" mode. In this mode the timing needs to be set at 0 +/- 2 degs. If the dist is in correctly it only takes a small adjustment to get it there. And when your done the plug wires should be coming out of the dist at 90 degs to the front of the motor. Hope this helps.............Steve

not sure why , but when i went to open the link that MT-2500 posted it comes back as forbidden . did it before i joined the forum and still is showing up as forbidden . dealing with this this same issue on an otherwise ok '98 z71 chevy truck . been trying out figure a plan of action out to remedy this issue and i appreciate ya'lls information that has been posted . wish i had the bucks to go out and buy a Snap On scanner

not sure why , but when i went to open the link that MT-2500 posted it comes back as forbidden . did it before i joined the forum and still is showing up as forbidden . dealing with this this same issue on an otherwise ok '98 z71 chevy truck . been trying out figure a plan of action out to remedy this issue and i appreciate ya'lls information that has been posted . wish i had the bucks to go out and buy a Snap On scanner

you need to have a repair shop set the timing to zero deg. you do not buy a tool that can do this unless you are going to use it every day to make some money.

not sure why , but when i went to open the link that MT-2500 posted it comes back as forbidden . did it before i joined the forum and still is showing up as forbidden . dealing with this this same issue on an otherwise ok '98 z71 chevy truck . been trying out figure a plan of action out to remedy this issue and i appreciate ya'lls information that has been posted . wish i had the bucks to go out and buy a Snap On scanner

This post is real old and the link I posted is even older.
The link I posted is the basic setting for the dist when it has been removed or replaced.
A good engine scanner is require for final setting and testing and check engine light and codes.

Start a New Thread and post all info about your problem and what it i doing or not doing and code for truck and someone will help you.
New Thread button is right over the forum post on left side of forum.

thanks MT-2500 . took it in today . when frank put the scanner on it it was -43 degrees off . in other words retarded 43 degrees . at -4 degrees it was agreed that that was probably the best till i change gears and timing chain . with 177,000 miles and change i can[t argue with that . on a load and heavy accelleration i'm getting about 3 seconds of valve clatter on the bottom end but once the revs get up its good . i kinda wish they set it up on the advance side but my theory may be way off . starts up good with no throttle . now i'm getting the 1810 code , tranny pressure valve #2 and fuel circuit . but it only occurs when i get on it hard . hey and engine is made to run , right ?
this truck had a lot of carbon build up because the fuel injection modulator had taken a shit in a big way . i was told to run a quart of tranny fluid in tank of fuel . eveidently transmission fluid had high detergent qualities and this is a safer way to remove carbon than fuel system cleaners . seriously before this truck could have been used for fogging mosquitos . anyway i appreciate findinding the clues here for this truck , MT-2500. i work for a guy and mechanic on his stble that includes a heavily customized 2009 jeep jk that is supercharged with a coil over spring suspension 37'' tires painted in black rhino liner with lime green accents in a zombie ops theme (austin weiss of stuart florida got his hands on this jeep) , a '65 roush cobra , .58 chevy apache rat rod . '59 chevy biscayne . '65 gto convertible with a 6 pack , '71 dodge chellenger with 3 dueces as well. a mini cooper s . an f250 4x4 diel pick up and a brand new dodge durango . i appreciate the straight up info i was able to glean . if inquiring minds want to see i can post pics of the syable care for