95 G20 Alternator Bracket: Different Idler arm angle

Vehicle is 95 G20, 5.7 liter engine, auto tranny

Problem: Alternator bracket cracked at BOTH attachment-to-block bolt holes. Original bracket had the Idler arm/belt tensioner end mount-hole at 'almost' a 45-degree angle from the alternator.

Repair: Self-repair in driveway. Used a replacement bracket from a junk yard which lines up with all mounting holes, but has a more vertical angle on the idler arm pulley. Serpentine belt was still able to be re-used and Idler arm is holding belt in place firmly. Very little play on the belt is evident. However, this new vertical angle puts the Idler's roller closer to water pump/fan roller. The space between the routing is about the thickness of corrugated cardboard. (Facing the engine from the grille/radiator, the serpentine belt routing is: wraps from right of crank pulley, forming an 'S' over the water pump roller, then down to the lower right of engine to Power Steering pump, up in a straight line to A/C compressor, right to left of A/C pulley, under the Idler roller to over the left-top side of the alternator{This is where the belt almost touches itself at the Water pump roller}, to the right of a 2nd yet lower-and-stationary idler roller on the alternator bracket, to the left-side of the crank pulley.)

Questions following repair: Should I get/find a shorter belt to pull the idler roller up and away from the water pump/fan roller, or leave it until it starts rubbing on itself at the water pump?

Will this replacement piece create further issues with other accessories and their function? Now noticing a clacking noise coming from Power steering pump that WASN'T there prior to replacement. Temp guage is NOT going up to temp as quickly as before; A/C works well; currently no rubbing of the belt between the idler roller and the water pump/fan roller.

It might work little while.
It would be better to get the right bracket when you can.
Belts need the right routing and tension and adjusters on them.
Good luck.
MT

It might work little while.
It would be better to get the right bracket when you can.
Belts need the right routing and tension and adjusters on them.
Good luck.
MT

Thanks, a year too late, MT. My apologies for not following up with post-op history. Had no problems from the routing, nor the serpentine, even though the tensioner arm seemed to take the belt-loops so close to each run. I did experience some squeaking from inside the Alt & around the roller on the bracket.

Get this, though: the junk-yard replacement bracket taken from a '94 G-20, broke Thur, 25 Apr 08, almost a year to the day of the last replacement. This time, I called Chevy garage and they had a new part for $107 + tax. Figured that if I buy new, esp when junkyard part was $50.00, I might get double the use out of it. On the broken unit, it looks like the metal, where the breaks occured, had dried out. Aluminum casting I guess will do that over time when exposed to engine heat? Seems to be a bit less noisy under the hood than after last replacement. PTL, I had the money to get a new part.

Aluminum casting should not break unless something is not right.
Does the belt flop around when it is running?
MT

Sir,
No, the belt doesn't flop around.

What's cracking and breaking are the 'ears' where the alternator mounts onto the bracket. Both of the ear-tabs on each older bracket that had broken snapped off below the bolt. Does that indicate inappropriate torque on the alternator mounting bolts? I have them snugged down as tight as I can get them.

Belt is not loose, slack nor floppy.

Not sure on it.
I have never ran into a problem with it.
You might ask around at dealer or where someone works on them all of the time.
If the dealer had one in stock there must be a problem with them.
The new one should last longer may have been improved.

Good luck
MT