Carmputer Sub Woofer?

So, I have two REALLY nice computer sub woofers that put out a lot of nice sounding bass. I have seen a video and read about it seaching google, but I can't find anything really helpfull. Does anyone know how possible this is?

So, I have two REALLY nice computer sub woofers that put out a lot of nice sounding bass. I have seen a video and read about it seaching google, but I can't find anything really helpfull. Does anyone know how possible this is?

Oh dear GOD don't use computer subwoofers in a car!!! :nono: Not only is it the most ghetto thing ever, but there was a threat online where someone posted a set of Logitech speakers and subwoofer, hooked to a power inverter IN THEIR CAR, SEATBELTED TO THE BACK PASSENGER SEAT while on wood planks and duct taped together. It was so horrible looking and probably sounded bad, not to mention a FIRE HAZARD!!!! He was challenging people to Sound Quality competitions... I was in a library while i was reading this and literally fell on the floor laughing it was so ridiculous... I've never seen anyone catch so much flak in my life...

That said... it's an incredible fire hazard, sounds awful, and isn't worth the time. If you want a car subwoofer, buy a car subwoofer. Computer subs are not meant for the environment of a car and should not be used in them :)

I'm not dissin you or anything... it's just REALLY not a good idea. Believe me, it's just dangerous and not worth the time or the sound!!!

If you want good subs...

Image Dynamics
Adire
Infinity (preferrably not reference line)
JBL
Oz
Alpine type-R or X
etc. etc. I can name a billion :)

Always ask before you purchase a sub... you don't want to purchase a P.O.S. one :) If you really want to know about car audio, I frequent the elitecaraudio.com forums (with over 1600 posts I believe). They are incredibly knowledgable and most of them nationally compete in SPL and SQ events! Go there!!!!!!!!!!

Have a nice day :)

Those brands cost a fortune, if you want cheap bump go to walmart get some xploids, amp and wiring kit. If you dont have a box you can make one or just buy a cheapy. Any way you cut it your going to have over $100 invested unless you have somebody that wants to get rid of a set. If you want quality go with the brands Vipey1337 said. I dont know about where you live but in ohio bestbuy runs a special every week on subs+box+amp so you might want to check that out too.

Those brands cost a fortune, if you want cheap bump go to walmart get some xploids, amp and wiring kit. If you dont have a box you can make one or just buy a cheapy. Any way you cut it your going to have over $100 invested unless you have somebody that wants to get rid of a set. If you want quality go with the brands Vipey1337 said. I dont know about where you live but in ohio bestbuy runs a special every week on subs+box+amp so you might want to check that out too.

Xplods are the epiphany of evil. They sound like splashing applesauce with a wooden spoon :p

Typically best buy and circuit city stuff is crap. Not all of it... infinity stuff is pretty good.

But IDQ's don't run that expensive. About $150 or so? You can probably get one for around there or cheaper on Ebay. You don't really need more than one sub unless you want to piss off cops... if you're looking for good low end, almost nothing beats the quality of an IDQ. You can also buy Adire Tempests BRAND NEW for $150. That's not expensive at all... and you can get used ones for cheaper. Hell, even Elemental Designs is pretty good...

stay away from Audioblah, as they use cheap voice coil glue and sound like crap for the most part. They handle decent power for a short while until they, literally and figuratively, become "unglued." I don't even know what Sony was thinking with hexagonal speakers??? Gross.

Kicker L7's are loud and alright SQ, but again, what's with the square shape?

Buy quality over quantity. You won't regret it.

My JBL w15GTi was the best thing I've ever bought audio-wise :)

Hey Vipey, what about celestion greenbacks ?
I have 4 150W celestion greenbacks loud speakers, they are very loud. :grinyes:
http://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics/products/tn/9/1/7/282917.jpghttp://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics/products/tn/9/1/7/282917.jpg
http://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics/products/tn/9/1/7/282917.jpghttp://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics/products/tn/9/1/7/282917.jpg
These pictured are only 75w :(

Hey Vipey, what about celestion greenbacks ?
I have 4 150W celestion greenbacks loud speakers, they are very loud. :grinyes:
http://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics/products/tn/9/1/7/282917.jpghttp://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics/products/tn/9/1/7/282917.jpg
http://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics/products/tn/9/1/7/282917.jpghttp://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics/products/tn/9/1/7/282917.jpg
These pictured are only 75w :(

I have actually never heard of those to tell you the truth. Check over on the elite car audio forums :p

Chances are though, if those speakers are stock, they probably aren't the best quality, but I doubt those are stock (especially since 150w or whatever... stock speakers only get like 2-5w lol). Anything is better than stock :)

Those greenbacks came from a Marshall 4-12" guitar amp cab. Lol ! They are loudspeakers not subs. It would have to be one big speaker box in the trunk.

Well, like I said, I've seen a video where the bass is surprisingly good. I have an Altec Lansing system for my computer that is so nice, I hook my iPod into it just to listen. I was just wondering if it could be done, and how. I respect all of the opinions expressed, however, im a stubborn guy and I like to find things out for myself. Like I may have said, I don't really wanna go out and spend $200+ for a new sub when I have 2 nice ones already.

Well, like I said, I've seen a video where the bass is surprisingly good. I have an Altec Lansing system for my computer that is so nice, I hook my iPod into it just to listen. I was just wondering if it could be done, and how. I respect all of the opinions expressed, however, im a stubborn guy and I like to find things out for myself. Like I may have said, I don't really wanna go out and spend $200+ for a new sub when I have 2 nice ones already.

Hello Ian,

I would like to start off by saying that I'm not a car audio expert but I do have years of experience and knowledge to give. Computer speakers can be made to work in a car but as Vipey had said previously, you are putting your vehicle in risk of catching on fire and also you will most likely destroy the nice computer subs because of the environment that they are in. If you are going to put together a "system" for your vehicle I would be more than willing to assist you in this. There are several routes with which you can take depending on what you are looking for in sound and price!

Here is a little peak at my setup I have in my GA right now...
Produces between 145db and 147db when setup for competition.

http://photos-196.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v13/92/45/53800516/n53800516_30065196_2687.jpg
This is the custom box I built with the Kicker 800.2 Amp and Kicker L5 Sub
http://photos-199.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v13/92/45/53800516/n53800516_30065199_4011.jpg
Showing the custom powdercoat that was applied to the grill and amp cover
http://photos-200.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v13/92/45/53800516/n53800516_30065200_4410.jpg
Showing the my Kicker EQ with sub-sonic filter (I know a little messy)

Well, thats a bit more than the size/db output I was thinking of.

How much was that?
Where'd you get it?
and what speakers do you have like your 6x9's in the back or 4x6's in the front?

I would say that your carputer speaker can work.
Though you could just gut the sub electronics/amp(thats ac) and hook it up to a car amp.

You can fit 6" rounds inside the door if you use a 3/4" wood round ring.
Same with the rear, you can fit a 6x9 from underneath instead of from the top like the stock ones.

Just my 17cents

Well, thats a bit more than the size/db output I was thinking of.

How much was that?
Where'd you get it?
and what speakers do you have like your 6x9's in the back or 4x6's in the front?

Ha, I didn't really expect you to want that much but it was just an example. In total I have spent about $2000 on everything. I have it insured for $2500 though just in case...:grinyes:. I actually have gotten things from all over the place, pretty much whoever had the cheapest price for me...

Kenwood Headunit - Sonic Electronix (www.sonicelectronix.com)
Kicker Amp - Ebay
Tsunami Wiring - Local Radioshack
Kicker EQ - Local Radioshack
Memphis Cap - Local Radioshack
Kicker 6x9's - TheZeb (before they shutdown)

I do a lot of business through my local radioshack only because the owners grandson and myself are really good friends so I pay cost for what I buy through them...

I have had no need to replace the front speakers as of yet but that is because I have the Monsoon stereo upgrade in my car so I'm running the front speakers (4x6's and Tweeters) from the factory monsoon amp and the 6x9's from the head-unit internal amp. The front speakers have not blown or distort and seem to be holding up very well which truley impresses me!
That's about it for my stereo, I tried a flip-out screen for a little while but wasn't really feeling it so I went back to just a really nice Kenwood head-unit which has a lot better sound quality anyways.
Here's a few pics of the screen before I took it out...
http://photos.pe.facebook.com/v64/92/45/53800516/n53800516_30219775_6755.jpg
http://photos.pe.facebook.com/v64/92/45/53800516/n53800516_30219774_6365.jpg

I don't see how you're running 145-147 watts off that little power on one kicker L5... what's your box tuned at? I have a w15GTi tuned at 38Hz in a bigass ported box with about 900 watts, and I doubt it gets THAT loud (never tested it, but I'm pretty sure I can't get in the 140's... for comparison, my friend has two 18 inch subs with a Tru Sledgehammer amp running about .5 ohms and it only gets in the 140s...).

What impedance are you running those on? What kind of wire? Also, where are you taking your SPL numbers from? In SPL competitions, the SPL readings are measured from the front drivers seat area. Were you taking them in the trunk or in that area? Obviously the trunk would give you much higher readings...

Just wanting to know... not trying to start anything obviously, but I have a hard time believing you can get even in the high 130's with just one sub at such low power.



Ha, I didn't really expect you to want that much but it was just an example. In total I have spent about $2000 on everything. I have it insured for $2500 though just in case...:grinyes:. I actually have gotten things from all over the place, pretty much whoever had the cheapest price for me...

Kenwood Headunit - Sonic Electronix (www.sonicelectronix.com (http://www.sonicelectronix.com))
Kicker Amp - Ebay
Tsunami Wiring - Local Radioshack
Kicker EQ - Local Radioshack
Memphis Cap - Local Radioshack
Kicker 6x9's - TheZeb (before they shutdown)

I do a lot of business through my local radioshack only because the owners grandson and myself are really good friends so I pay cost for what I buy through them...

I have had no need to replace the front speakers as of yet but that is because I have the Monsoon stereo upgrade in my car so I'm running the front speakers (4x6's and Tweeters) from the factory monsoon amp and the 6x9's from the head-unit internal amp. The front speakers have not blown or distort and seem to be holding up very well which truley impresses me!
That's about it for my stereo, I tried a flip-out screen for a little while but wasn't really feeling it so I went back to just a really nice Kenwood head-unit which has a lot better sound quality anyways.
Here's a few pics of the screen before I took it out...

Oh and like I said before... if you don't mind an incredibly high risk that your car will start on fire, you can use those computer subs, but you'll probably blow them up within a month or so assuming your car hasn't exploded. It's incredibly dangerous to do, I seriously would not risk my life just for mediocre (at best) sound. Like I said, those subs are not designed for a small, enclosed environment, thus they'd probably not sound very good, on top of being a fire hazard and also they'd fly around everywhere.

Hey Vipey,

You have to realize that with experience comes the knowledge on tips and tricks to optimize for SPL. I must clear up though that I've only hit 143db at a competition but during testing I've hit 145.6db. If you didn't notice I'm running one Kicker 800.2 amp to a single 12" L5 with the eq all in a custom tuned box that I have made myself. The 800.2 is capable of running about 2000 watts for a short spurt to a sub during competition, hence the high numbers. During daily driving I'm only have it hooked up for a 2-ohm load on one channel giving the sub 400 RMS Watts and 800 max, but during comps I run 1-ohm using both channels and am getting approx 1500 RMS and 2400-2600 max. It all is in the setup, also you must realize that this is a single quick spurt of a specific frequency so that I do not kill the amp or the sub. As for positioning of the meter, I use the same guage as they do in the competitions (angled piece) to position the meter properly in my windsheild.

I certainly see why you didn't understand the high numbers but I didn't exactly explain the custom tuned box with the large amp.

Hope it clears it up, and I'm defiantely in agreeance with you towards Ian when it comes to using the computer subs in a car. VERY BAD idea for sure!

Take it easy Vip,
Jon

Hey Vipey,

You have to realize that with experience comes the knowledge on tips and tricks to optimize for SPL. I must clear up though that I've only hit 143db at a competition but during testing I've hit 145.6db. If you didn't notice I'm running one Kicker 800.2 amp to a single 12" L5 with the eq all in a custom tuned box that I have made myself. The 800.2 is capable of running about 2000 watts for a short spurt to a sub during competition, hence the high numbers. During daily driving I'm only have it hooked up for a 2-ohm load on one channel giving the sub 400 RMS Watts and 800 max, but during comps I run 1-ohm using both channels and am getting approx 1500 RMS and 2400-2600 max. It all is in the setup, also you must realize that this is a single quick spurt of a specific frequency so that I do not kill the amp or the sub. As for positioning of the meter, I use the same guage as they do in the competitions (angled piece) to position the meter properly in my windsheild.

I certainly see why you didn't understand the high numbers but I didn't exactly explain the custom tuned box with the large amp.

Hope it clears it up, and I'm defiantely in agreeance with you towards Ian when it comes to using the computer subs in a car. VERY BAD idea for sure!

Take it easy Vip,
Jon

I know about how subs are run in competition, I just completely forgot about it (it's been a few years). I had a custom box built specifically for me for those reasons too (not quite where I wanted it but close). I suppose it's possible but for anything longer than a tiny burst as you said you're going to be chasing your dust cap across the room :p

I know about how subs are run in competition, I just completely forgot about it (it's been a few years). I had a custom box built specifically for me for those reasons too (not quite where I wanted it but close). I suppose it's possible but for anything longer than a tiny burst as you said you're going to be chasing your dust cap across the room :p

I have already chased several L5 dustcaps around in my vehicle...:grinno:

I have already chased several L5 dustcaps around in my vehicle...:grinno:

K then I believe you :p:lol: