water pump longevity, jackstand points
f100240
04-25-2007, 02:06 PM
I think my 1995 1.3L LSI has a leaking water pump seal, but I haven't completely traced where the coolant leak is- just in the vicinity of the water pump. My car has 103,000 miles on it. The only water pumps I have replaced in the past were on Ford pickups and they lasted a lot longer than that. Does this sound reasonable for the life of a pump?
Also, where is a safe place to put jack stands without damaging anything? I have been told by mechanics that they can be placed under the "frame" in the most forward spot near the wheel well, or under the control arm, an idea I don't like at all.
Thanks.
Also, where is a safe place to put jack stands without damaging anything? I have been told by mechanics that they can be placed under the "frame" in the most forward spot near the wheel well, or under the control arm, an idea I don't like at all.
Thanks.
RossT
04-26-2007, 12:34 AM
With all the cars that I have, the water pumps start to go at about 75,000 miles on my daily drivers. On stored cars, it's more of an age factor than mileage.
Check the weep hole under the pump for a crusty leakage area. Also check the back of the pump where there is a metal tube entering the back of the pump. There is an o ring inside there that can go bad.
Jack stands go where the control arms attaches to the frame.
Check the weep hole under the pump for a crusty leakage area. Also check the back of the pump where there is a metal tube entering the back of the pump. There is an o ring inside there that can go bad.
Jack stands go where the control arms attaches to the frame.
f100240
04-26-2007, 12:26 PM
RossT, thanks for your answer. You know, in the past I have always done all of the work on my pickups and motorcycles. But, I had a shop do the timing belt on my Metro about 17, 000 miles back because I didn't like the very cramped work area. Now, I am going to have to do this job myself. I have the factory service manual, but I still have a question: Is it OK to drop the oil pan and block the crankshaft from rotating in order to get the pulley and/or sprocket bolts off? This works well with my Ford truck.
Thanks. By the way, this shows the value of doing your own work. If I had done the timing belt myself, I would have noticed that the water pump was behind it and would have done it too. The shop did put in a new front main seal without me asking them, however.
Thanks. By the way, this shows the value of doing your own work. If I had done the timing belt myself, I would have noticed that the water pump was behind it and would have done it too. The shop did put in a new front main seal without me asking them, however.
redpepe
04-26-2007, 09:34 PM
if you don't need to drop the pan, try doing it without first. i've done the timing belt a few times and using a strap wrench or visegrip chain wrench [i was engaged in low gear] it was surprisingly easy ...the beauty of small engines. btw my water pump has 315k miles and works well ....lucky.
Crvett69
04-26-2007, 10:32 PM
you don't need to drop the pan or take the center crank bolt out, just the 4 or 5 small bolts inside the pulley. you will have to remove the timing belt to do the water pump but its not that hard a job, did a timing belt and water pump and both seals in under 2 hours the other day and it even had ac i had to deal with
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