Fighting with Fuel Filter
goser
04-24-2007, 05:05 PM
I can't for the life of me undo the nut on the fuel filter. I've sprayed it with some penetrating oil and am leaving it for the night before I really strip it. Should I be trying to turn the fuel filter or the nut on the fuel line? Any advice would be welcome. If worst comes to worst what would be involved with replacing the line from the filter back?
MT-2500
04-24-2007, 06:07 PM
Good 5/8 line wrench and a line or good wrench to fit the filter nut helps.
They do get tight. If you can not get it with a couple of good line wrenches.
Next step.
If you have air and a air chisel split the nut part on the fuel filter or hold a block/support behind the fuel filter nut and take a chisel and hammer and split the nut part of fuel filter.
After you get the line nut broke lose if it is froze on the line you will need o turn the filter to keep from twisting the line off.
And when putting the new one back throw some anti seize on the nut threads and line.
So the next time it will not be so tight.
They do get tight. If you can not get it with a couple of good line wrenches.
Next step.
If you have air and a air chisel split the nut part on the fuel filter or hold a block/support behind the fuel filter nut and take a chisel and hammer and split the nut part of fuel filter.
After you get the line nut broke lose if it is froze on the line you will need o turn the filter to keep from twisting the line off.
And when putting the new one back throw some anti seize on the nut threads and line.
So the next time it will not be so tight.
muddog321
04-25-2007, 03:06 PM
That line or brake nut wrench (grabs all but 1 side of the nut) may help. If you trash the turning line nut the new line requires lifting the body up to get it back on stock - been there so listen to MT. GM got their undercoating in/on many of these and a real pain.
goser
05-14-2007, 05:07 PM
I finally gave up and went to return the fuel filter, and the guy at the parts store said he can order me in a short replacement line so I just have to cut off the existing line before the nut and install the new piece with some flexible line. Should save me grief in the future to have a new nut on there.
MT-2500
05-14-2007, 05:22 PM
I finally gave up and went to return the fuel filter, and the guy at the parts store said he can order me in a short replacement line so I just have to cut off the existing line before the nut and install the new piece with some flexible line. Should save me grief in the future to have a new nut on there.
Or cause you more grief.:grinyes:
The fuel systems needs a filter installed to keep the trask out of injectors.
It is a high pressure line and if you try to cobble a rubber hose on it call your insurance company and double your fire insurance.
If you can not get it changed take it to a repair shop that can.
MT
Or cause you more grief.:grinyes:
The fuel systems needs a filter installed to keep the trask out of injectors.
It is a high pressure line and if you try to cobble a rubber hose on it call your insurance company and double your fire insurance.
If you can not get it changed take it to a repair shop that can.
MT
goser
05-14-2007, 08:15 PM
Hmm...maybe I'll try chiseling it off first then. Would they really sell repair kits like that if there was any danger tho? Mind you it is pressurized flammable liquid...
Another question for you MT--I left my fuel pressure tester on just to see if it was holding pressure and after about an hour it was down to 35psi. Is this within the realm of normal or should I be looking for a leak?
Another question for you MT--I left my fuel pressure tester on just to see if it was holding pressure and after about an hour it was down to 35psi. Is this within the realm of normal or should I be looking for a leak?
MT-2500
05-15-2007, 09:00 AM
No problem on fuel pressure leaking down after a hr.
I can not say about the kit.
There is a difference in chiseling it off and cracking the nut with a chisel.
The filter nut is the one you need to crack.
Find a good old mechanic and get him to show you the proper way to crack a nut with a cold chisel.
Good luck
MT
I can not say about the kit.
There is a difference in chiseling it off and cracking the nut with a chisel.
The filter nut is the one you need to crack.
Find a good old mechanic and get him to show you the proper way to crack a nut with a cold chisel.
Good luck
MT
mike2004tct
05-15-2007, 11:06 AM
Try tightening the nuts together first, before loosening them.
Sometimes it helps to get the threads loosened.
Sometimes it helps to get the threads loosened.
skyzend
05-15-2007, 02:11 PM
I was just down this path a few months ago.
I was able to get the nut off about 3/4 turn and then nothing... after about 90 minutes.
I gave up on the first path and just re-tightend the nut
It took all my strength and manipulation to get it that far ... and with a really good set of wrenches. The strength that I was appplying was just remoulding the soft brass nut. I thought my situation was unique and I would never would have dreamed that someone else would have a similar probelm
In the end, I cut it off and just used some flexible high pressure fuel line to fit a piece with a new nut. I used double clamps just to be sure that things were sealed. Trouble is its so tight with not much room to manuver.
Still its a good idea to use the recommendations in the earlier part of the thread ... nothing beats a properly seated fitting and clamped fuel lines will only eventually fail especially if the clamp is subject to rusting out.
I was able to get the nut off about 3/4 turn and then nothing... after about 90 minutes.
I gave up on the first path and just re-tightend the nut
It took all my strength and manipulation to get it that far ... and with a really good set of wrenches. The strength that I was appplying was just remoulding the soft brass nut. I thought my situation was unique and I would never would have dreamed that someone else would have a similar probelm
In the end, I cut it off and just used some flexible high pressure fuel line to fit a piece with a new nut. I used double clamps just to be sure that things were sealed. Trouble is its so tight with not much room to manuver.
Still its a good idea to use the recommendations in the earlier part of the thread ... nothing beats a properly seated fitting and clamped fuel lines will only eventually fail especially if the clamp is subject to rusting out.
hotrod_chevyz
05-15-2007, 02:29 PM
If you end up having to cut it off do yourself a favor.
1: use a tubing cutter and cut it off clean on each side of the filter. measure it so you know how long to cut the new section of line.
2: go to a junk yard and find one that you can remove the filter on easily. Cut it in the same place you cut yours.
3: Use COMPRESSION FITTINGS to patch in the new line. DO NOT use some hose clamps or something equally as dumb. Thats the kind of stuff that will eventually catch up to you. Thats a high pressure line, a hose clamp simply isnt safe.
1: use a tubing cutter and cut it off clean on each side of the filter. measure it so you know how long to cut the new section of line.
2: go to a junk yard and find one that you can remove the filter on easily. Cut it in the same place you cut yours.
3: Use COMPRESSION FITTINGS to patch in the new line. DO NOT use some hose clamps or something equally as dumb. Thats the kind of stuff that will eventually catch up to you. Thats a high pressure line, a hose clamp simply isnt safe.
Sparky1349
05-16-2007, 05:56 PM
3: Use COMPRESSION FITTINGS to patch in the new line. DO NOT use some hose clamps or something equally as dumb. Thats the kind of stuff that will eventually catch up to you. Thats a high pressure line, a hose clamp simply isnt safe.
Hey... You don't want to use a compression fitting in this kind of an application. The ferrule cuts into the tubing and create a stress riser. In a high vibration application (like anywhere in a car) the vibration will be concentrated at the stress riser and crack the tubing. The correct way to splice 2 pieces of tubing is to double flare each side and use a coupler. You can buy double flaring tools at the auto parts store (stay away from the cheap ones, the work but they are a bitch to get a straight flare). One of the tricks to get a good seal is after you use the insert to get the initial flare and you reinsert the flaring tool to finish the flare, don't crank the flaring tool all the way down, only tighten it down until the flare is just past level. That way when you tighten it down on the coupler, the coupler will complete the flare and you will get a perfect seal.
Hey... You don't want to use a compression fitting in this kind of an application. The ferrule cuts into the tubing and create a stress riser. In a high vibration application (like anywhere in a car) the vibration will be concentrated at the stress riser and crack the tubing. The correct way to splice 2 pieces of tubing is to double flare each side and use a coupler. You can buy double flaring tools at the auto parts store (stay away from the cheap ones, the work but they are a bitch to get a straight flare). One of the tricks to get a good seal is after you use the insert to get the initial flare and you reinsert the flaring tool to finish the flare, don't crank the flaring tool all the way down, only tighten it down until the flare is just past level. That way when you tighten it down on the coupler, the coupler will complete the flare and you will get a perfect seal.
old_master
05-16-2007, 09:17 PM
Dorman has a repair kit made exactly for your situation, https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-bin/vm91corp30r/item-dtl.w?sid=0x0060bb9b&item=800-153&icrid=&clt=hwrap1&vsrch_str=800-153&vsrch_brand=ALL&vsrch_cat=ALL&st_amount=&end_amount=&start=&vfrom=&prev=&vnext=&category_list=:0 Runs about $13.00USD. Use a tubing cutter on the old line. Been there more times than I can count, works like a charm. Takes my grandma about 10 minutes to do it. Use anti seize on the threads each time you replace the filter and you'll never have a problem.
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