1996 ls wont start

it started almost stalling at 1st. I could push the pedal down slightly, about an inch. And I would slowly go. If i woul push the pedal any further it would sputter and pop and eventually stall. Now after new plugs and wires no start.
Any one got a clue?

fuel filter? nahh ... GirlBear knows better ...

Throttle Position Sensor ?

cleaned the throttle-body lately?

got any fuel pressure at the schraeder valve?




it started almost stalling at 1st. I could push the pedal down slightly, about an inch. And I would slowly go. If i woul push the pedal any further it would sputter and pop and eventually stall. Now after new plugs and wires no start.
Any one got a clue?

I didnt wanna even type the Words "Fuel Pump". But there is no whirl sound when I turn the key. How do I check the pressure. And is there a fuel pump fuse?

Yes there is a fuse and also a relay and maybe a test port for a pressure gauge and a test wire for power to fuel pump.
Find relay or test wire or gray going to fuel pump and check for 12 volts to fuel pump.
It should have 12 volts key on for 30 second prime up.
But first you have to have good spark to plugs and ing. for the fuel pump to kick in.
Have you got good spark to 2 or more spark plugs.
Any check engine light on?

If your pump isn't coming on for the 30 sec when you turn the key to "on" check the fuse and relay, a haynes manual will tell you where they are if you have one. If they check out its your fuel pump. I would guess its the fuel pump because it didn't just die all at once but faded out quickly, mine did the same thing 5 years ago.

ok, so a friend and i spent all day checking wires plugs cap rotor(all new now). The haynes book said if The oil pressure is low it has a shut off SWITCH to the fuel pump. Well just b4 the blazer died the oil pressure went to zero. It kinda bounced back and forth from 40-0 but stayed at 0 for awhile. but anyway we diconnected the Neg terminal. and now the Shaeder vavle is pressurized. Tried to start, Nothing.! So at this point We have Spark and gas but it seems as tho gas isn't always getting into the thottle body. i stuck my fingers in passed the butterfly and after trying to start it had gas in it. But now it doesnt. So could the injectors be clogged? Im just graspin 4 anything at this point.

Girl Bear pitch that Haynes book in the trash can on the oil pressure shut off switch.
The oil pressure switch is only a safety switch to keep the fuel pump running if the fuel pump relay quits.
It does not turn off the fuel pump.
If the injectors are squirting you have some fuel pressure and injector pulse.
Can you hear fuel pump run for 30 seconds when key is first turned on or when you are cranking engine?

Do you have good hot blue spark to two or more spark plugs.
And make sure the dist rotor is turning.
Also you need to get a fuel pressure gauge and check your fuel pressure.
If TBI injecction you should have 9-13 lbs of fuel pressure.

30 seconds for prime! And I thought it was 3

30 seconds for prime! And I thought it was 3

Maybe if you have a Haynes manual.:grinyes: :lol:

These vehicles actually have a 2 second prime cycle.

This is a CSFI engine, not a TBI. You need to make sure you have the proper fuel pressure, and good spark. Are you sure you have good constant spark? If you have an ignition problem, your injecotors will not fire properly and its a cascading effect from there. You mention you have good spark, so assuming you do, you have to check your fuel pressure. Keep it simple and you'll get it.

The first question that should be answered is if the fuel pump runs for the 2 or 3 or whatever it is seconds when the key is turned to "on" after being in the off position for some time. I don't know what the exact time is, I always wait like 30 sec or 1 min to be safe (I am sure someone here can tell you the exact time).

Sounds exactly the same as when the fuel pump went in my 98. Good luck

This is a CSFI engine, not a TBI. You need to make sure you have the proper fuel pressure, and good spark. Are you sure you have good constant spark? If you have an ignition problem, your injecotors will not fire properly and its a cascading effect from there. You mention you have good spark, so assuming you do, you have to check your fuel pressure. Keep it simple and you'll get it.

Ok its def the pump. And we've decided to cut a hole in the top thru the floor. Cause im not even tryin to "F" with jackin it up and empty'n the tank and messing with all that gas. Also the gas lines and wires sound soooo intimadating. Does any one know where i can get a pic of the top of the actual tank. Just so i can map out where to cut. Thinkin about cut'n to the opposite side of the fuel lines. then bending the piece backwards away from the tank.

The first question that should be answered is if the fuel pump runs for the 2 or 3 or whatever it is seconds when the key is turned to "on" after being in the off position for some time. I don't know what the exact time is, I always wait like 30 sec or 1 min to be safe (I am sure someone here can tell you the exact time).

Blazee has it right with 2 seconds time for the blazer 4.3 V6.
I always say a 30 second prime up which is not correct.
Some makes and models may be a little longer and some Times they do not always all the time prime on first key on. Some times you may bump starter to get prime and hit the key on again.
But the prime time is not important it is the prime up when key is first turned on that is.
If you do not have prime up something is not working right.
Do not leave home with the prime up working.
Way back in ford big truck days in the 1960 years they a fuel pump that ran off of the oil pressure switch.
Yes a true no oil pressure kill the engine fuel pump switch setup.
To get them started they had a primer button that had to be push it before they would start.

Ok its def the pump. And we've decided to cut a hole in the top thru the floor. Cause im not even tryin to "F" with jackin it up and empty'n the tank and messing with all that gas. Also the gas lines and wires sound soooo intimadating. Does any one know where i can get a pic of the top of the actual tank. Just so i can map out where to cut. Thinkin about cut'n to the opposite side of the fuel lines. then bending the piece backwards away from the tank.

Girl Bear
I would advise against cutting into the floor board to get to it.
I know it is a pain to drop the tank.
But the best way out.
Cutting into the floor board may be a dangerous operation.
And you may even have a cross member in the road.
Good luck
MT

This is a 4 door truck, your tank is on the inside frame rail not at the back....cutting it probably would be harder than just pulling the tank. Now that I think about it, its almost impossible. Its probably easier, and a whole lot safer to just pull it and get it done that way. Good luck!

This is a 4 door truck, your tank is on the inside frame rail not at the back....cutting it probably would be harder than just pulling the tank. Now that I think about it, its almost impossible. Its probably easier, and a whole lot safer to just pull it and get it done that way. Good luck!
I understand what ur saying. And Im not afraid to get a lil or alot dirty. But Im afraid to break or over bend the fuel lines or damage anything i cant see as i lower the tank.

Iv'e decided to bite the bullet. I brought it to a mechanic 2day. Told'em to fix it 4 me. 1st time ever having another person actually fix my baby. Im nervous.

I am sure everything will be fine, for a mechanic with a lift and all the correct tools it is an easy job.

I am sure everything will be fine, for a mechanic with a lift and all the correct tools it is an easy job.
a lil update sorry it took sooooooooooooo long.
Had a "Mechanic" replace my pump. $740 and it runs like shit now. all 3 of my o2 sensors are shot still leaking a gallon of oil a month. mech said he'd fix all problems. ya know while it was up there. mother f'er quoted me $500 charged me the $740 and didn't fix n e thing else. Then tells the guy who referred me i was a pain in the ass. he had my blazer 4 3 weeks so i called him a few times to check on the progress. F him. 4wd doesn't work n e more stalls. acceleration is no existent to the floor almost stalls and sometimes does. but i cant complain. lol. once i pay off this credit card purchase ill replace the o2s vacuum lines oil cooler lines oil filler spout and seal. all that should set me right again. he could have fixed everything else and ripped me off 4 much more. oh well his mistake.

Thanks for the update.
Sounds like that one was a bummer deal.
Sounds like you are going to have to DIY it or.
Give us all of the info on what it is doing or not doing and maybe someone can help you.
Or the other way out.
Good Luck either way. MT
A tip on finding a good repair shop.
Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.