93 LX no spark from coil

I'm not getting any spark from my coil, i have tested with a spark tester, the kind you place over the wire and it lights up when there is a spark. Initially there was a weak light coming from the tester when i first tested it, so i pushed down the wire going to the distrib cap and it had enough spark to start. I assuming that the plug wires were going bad, so i replaced them, still no spark. I tested the coil, i got .8 ohms for primary and 8,000 ohms for secondary resistance(within ford specs), so the coil is good, i took the ignition module to Murray's for testing and it passed, i measured the resistance of the stator/pick up assembly, i got .5 ohms across the number 1 and 5 terminals, and less than 1 ohms for the other ones the manual told me to check, i believe it was terminals 2 and 6, so it appears the stator is good. I checked the voltage to the tach terminal of the coil and it was just under 12 volts with the key on. I connected a test light to the tach term of the coil and cranked the engine, the light came on but it didnt flutter while cranking (not sure if it is suppossed to on Fords). I also took the distributor cap off the confirm that it was turning while cranking and it was. I cant think of what else to do, i've checked every component. Please tell me what I am overlooking??? THanks

Try using an analog voltmeter instead of a test light at the tach terminal and see if the needle flucuates.Check all connections to the ignition module and distributor to be sure there are no broken or corroded wires or contacts. There should be three wires going from the ignition module to the distributor. Two of them go to the stator and the other one is a ground wire. Be sure the ground wire is making a good connection to ground inside of the distributor.

Upon removing the distributor cap, i cant seem to locate a. which wire is ground and b. what it's attached to., the plate the rotor sits on is in the way, i cant really see where the wires go. Does the entire distributor need to be removed in order to see what the ground wire is connected to?

At the connector that comes from the distributor- Connect one lead of your ohmmeter to the black wire and ground the other ohmmeter lead. You should have close to 0 ohms resistance. There should be two other colored wires in this connector that go to the Stator assembly. Did you check ALL connectors and wires for broken or corroded conditions? I've had wires fail right at the connector on the ignition module and didn't find them until I used an ohmmeter to check the wiring harness. Did you try an analog meter at the tach side of the coil to see if the needle moves back and forth while cranking the engine?

i will check the black wire tonight.. the only thing i have checked as far as the stator are is the resistance between the number 1 and 5 terminals, its was at around .5 ohms, the specs says to replace if it goes over 5 ohms.

as far as the wiring harness for the module, i havent tested the resistance of those wires, i do not know the resistance specs for the wiring harness to the module

i dont have an analog meter, just a digital one. i didnt test the voltage of the tach during crank, i just inserted a test light

did some more testing of the stator last night, i tested the resistance across the number 1 and 5 terminals again, the number went above 5, at one point it stayed at 8.1 ohms briefly, then when i checked it again the resistance was at .5 ohms, i kept checking after that and it stayed under .5 ohms. Next i did as 97 tbird suggested and tested the resistance between the black ground wire and ground, when i first tested it the numbers were fluctuating like crazy, it went up above 100 ohms and just kept fluctuating and wouldnt stay still, i checked it again and the resistance was at .4 ohms and kept checking it, i kept getting .5 ohms. I am guessing that something is lost in there, i dont understand how i can get crazy readings at first and then normal readings. I am going to buy a socket (i dont have one small enough) and try to tighten all the bolts in the stator and see what happens.

I also attempted to check the module wiring harness, when i took the harness off the module there was this brownish grease substance all over the connector, the harness opening is too small for my multimeter probe to fit in there and get a reading, i going to have to stick a straight pin in there so i'll do that this evening. The harness has black soot all over it, after prying the harness off my fingers were filthy black. Not sure if the harness need to be replace because of this

If the readings are fluctuating you either were making a bad connection with the probe tips or possibly one of the wires is broken inside the insulation. Try moving the wires while checking your meter. The dielectric grease inside the connector is meant to be there to prevent corrosion of the contacts.