00 Odyssey will start, then not start! NEWBIE need help!
snuzzardbuzzard
04-22-2007, 05:36 PM
Hello,
We have a 2000 Odyssey (103,00 miles) all normal servicing was done via the first owner @ dealership.
He did however change own oil and stated he used mobil 1 synthetic.
we recently aquired this 2000 Odyssey EX from it's previous one owner and feel like we got a great deal, as he was able to provide all previous service records from Honda. I was a bit concerned b/c of bad trannies, but he had Honda install one in Sept 06 at 80,000 miles under the recall.
also note, timing belt has YET to be serviced.
PROBLEM:
few weeks I drove about 10 miles, no problem, parked car and shut off, about 10 min. later, it would not start, like it was turning over too fast or something, as soon as we called the tow truck (1/2 hour or so later) boom! started right up and did not give me any PROBLEMS.
Took to the local community automotive college, they tested it and it came back as CAT EFF. Code
and TRANS code, they cleared them and asked me to return in a week to see if they came back and they did. They thought perhaps, when HONDA put in warrenty tranny, they forgot to clear codes.
Something about the third gear pressure plate was what came back on the tranny code, tech said it wouldn't affect driveability. THE CATALYIC code was the other.
BEEN DRIVING IT FINE TILL THIS WEEK,
Drove from work to gas station, fillled up with gas, got in and wouldn't start, tried to turn over and it seemed like it wasn't getting fuel, Made sure gas cap was on correctly (know they are sensitive). Tried several times that eve to get it started, no luck, then in the chilly morning, it fired up, so we returned later in afternoon to drive it to autozone, where it fired up (slowly) went to AZ, had them hook it up and same codes above were all that showed up.
Naturally, since we had to shut it off at AutoZone, it would not restart till this morning, where we drove it home. Just a few min. ago, it started fine but as soon as I shut it off, it refused to restart.
auto zone said something about EGR valve (which I think is related to the CAT code).
ANY IDEAS? Obviously we have to go to the dealership, but we are a POOR family, my hubby is somewhat mechanically inclined. I just want to be pointed in the right direction.
By rights, since our oddy is still qualified under tranny warrenty (the extension to 109,000 miles depending on VIN number) HONDA should take care of the trans code, will they hassle me since, I am not the orig. owner but the second with all the orig. records showing honda servicing, ( I have heard Horror stories about different dealerships and warrenty coverage).
:shakehead
Also, the check engine light has NOT been on, only the blinking service soon light (which its due for an oil change and I read thats why they may come on)
Apryl Brown
We have a 2000 Odyssey (103,00 miles) all normal servicing was done via the first owner @ dealership.
He did however change own oil and stated he used mobil 1 synthetic.
we recently aquired this 2000 Odyssey EX from it's previous one owner and feel like we got a great deal, as he was able to provide all previous service records from Honda. I was a bit concerned b/c of bad trannies, but he had Honda install one in Sept 06 at 80,000 miles under the recall.
also note, timing belt has YET to be serviced.
PROBLEM:
few weeks I drove about 10 miles, no problem, parked car and shut off, about 10 min. later, it would not start, like it was turning over too fast or something, as soon as we called the tow truck (1/2 hour or so later) boom! started right up and did not give me any PROBLEMS.
Took to the local community automotive college, they tested it and it came back as CAT EFF. Code
and TRANS code, they cleared them and asked me to return in a week to see if they came back and they did. They thought perhaps, when HONDA put in warrenty tranny, they forgot to clear codes.
Something about the third gear pressure plate was what came back on the tranny code, tech said it wouldn't affect driveability. THE CATALYIC code was the other.
BEEN DRIVING IT FINE TILL THIS WEEK,
Drove from work to gas station, fillled up with gas, got in and wouldn't start, tried to turn over and it seemed like it wasn't getting fuel, Made sure gas cap was on correctly (know they are sensitive). Tried several times that eve to get it started, no luck, then in the chilly morning, it fired up, so we returned later in afternoon to drive it to autozone, where it fired up (slowly) went to AZ, had them hook it up and same codes above were all that showed up.
Naturally, since we had to shut it off at AutoZone, it would not restart till this morning, where we drove it home. Just a few min. ago, it started fine but as soon as I shut it off, it refused to restart.
auto zone said something about EGR valve (which I think is related to the CAT code).
ANY IDEAS? Obviously we have to go to the dealership, but we are a POOR family, my hubby is somewhat mechanically inclined. I just want to be pointed in the right direction.
By rights, since our oddy is still qualified under tranny warrenty (the extension to 109,000 miles depending on VIN number) HONDA should take care of the trans code, will they hassle me since, I am not the orig. owner but the second with all the orig. records showing honda servicing, ( I have heard Horror stories about different dealerships and warrenty coverage).
:shakehead
Also, the check engine light has NOT been on, only the blinking service soon light (which its due for an oil change and I read thats why they may come on)
Apryl Brown
Glen_T
04-26-2007, 04:39 PM
Well, since the issue is intermittent, it may be a pain to nail down.
Somehow you need to figure out if this is a fuel delivery problem or a spark problem. When it does not start, does it kick at all like it's trying, or just cranking away? Also, do you smell fuel near the tailpipe when you've been cranking it but it doesn't start? This and any other symptoms might help.
On older Hondas, there was a relay up under the dash that turned on the fuel pump when you were starting and running the engine. It would go bad such that when the interior of the car got hot, the relay would not close and the car would just crank and crank. When the car cooled off (or you open the door for awhile) the solder joints inside the relay would connect again and the engine would run perfectly. You can search the internet for Honda main relay and get all kinds of hits about it.
However, I thought Honda fixed that in the mid-90s. However, it might be a possibility, especially if you cannot hear the fuel pump run when your turn the ignition to "on" when the car is in it's "no start" mood.
Other possibilities...if the engine compartment gets very hot, you can vapor the injector rails, especially if the fuel pressure regulator is not working right. However, that would probably cause some performance loss when you are accelerating hard. So, if the car runs pretty good and has a lot of pep, it is probably not the cause.
The bottom line is that you really need to be able to check fuel pressure and spark right when it is not starting. If you wait for the mechanic, it may not do it!
On the transmission, you can talk with them and see if you qualify for the extended coverage. Worth a try, but ask before they work on it so they don't tell you they won't cover it AFTER they've already worked on it.....
Hope this helps....perhaps you can give more symptoms and I and other can help out.....Glen
Somehow you need to figure out if this is a fuel delivery problem or a spark problem. When it does not start, does it kick at all like it's trying, or just cranking away? Also, do you smell fuel near the tailpipe when you've been cranking it but it doesn't start? This and any other symptoms might help.
On older Hondas, there was a relay up under the dash that turned on the fuel pump when you were starting and running the engine. It would go bad such that when the interior of the car got hot, the relay would not close and the car would just crank and crank. When the car cooled off (or you open the door for awhile) the solder joints inside the relay would connect again and the engine would run perfectly. You can search the internet for Honda main relay and get all kinds of hits about it.
However, I thought Honda fixed that in the mid-90s. However, it might be a possibility, especially if you cannot hear the fuel pump run when your turn the ignition to "on" when the car is in it's "no start" mood.
Other possibilities...if the engine compartment gets very hot, you can vapor the injector rails, especially if the fuel pressure regulator is not working right. However, that would probably cause some performance loss when you are accelerating hard. So, if the car runs pretty good and has a lot of pep, it is probably not the cause.
The bottom line is that you really need to be able to check fuel pressure and spark right when it is not starting. If you wait for the mechanic, it may not do it!
On the transmission, you can talk with them and see if you qualify for the extended coverage. Worth a try, but ask before they work on it so they don't tell you they won't cover it AFTER they've already worked on it.....
Hope this helps....perhaps you can give more symptoms and I and other can help out.....Glen
snuzzardbuzzard
04-26-2007, 06:30 PM
THANKS GLEN for the great INSIGHT,
IT cranks away all the while the dashboard data blinks and blinks, we know the fuel pump is kicking on so perhaps it could be that relay switch you were talking about, we just took it to HONDA tonight, so hopefully, I'll be able to update you with more tomorrow.
Apryl :banghead:
Well, since the issue is intermittent, it may be a pain to nail down.
Somehow you need to figure out if this is a fuel delivery problem or a spark problem. When it does not start, does it kick at all like it's trying, or just cranking away? Also, do you smell fuel near the tailpipe when you've been cranking it but it doesn't start? This and any other symptoms might help.
On older Hondas, there was a relay up under the dash that turned on the fuel pump when you were starting and running the engine. It would go bad such that when the interior of the car got hot, the relay would not close and the car would just crank and crank. When the car cooled off (or you open the door for awhile) the solder joints inside the relay would connect again and the engine would run perfectly. You can search the internet for Honda main relay and get all kinds of hits about it.
However, I thought Honda fixed that in the mid-90s. However, it might be a possibility, especially if you cannot hear the fuel pump run when your turn the ignition to "on" when the car is in it's "no start" mood.
Other possibilities...if the engine compartment gets very hot, you can vapor the injector rails, especially if the fuel pressure regulator is not working right. However, that would probably cause some performance loss when you are accelerating hard. So, if the car runs pretty good and has a lot of pep, it is probably not the cause.
The bottom line is that you really need to be able to check fuel pressure and spark right when it is not starting. If you wait for the mechanic, it may not do it!
On the transmission, you can talk with them and see if you qualify for the extended coverage. Worth a try, but ask before they work on it so they don't tell you they won't cover it AFTER they've already worked on it.....
Hope this helps....perhaps you can give more symptoms and I and other can help out.....Glen
IT cranks away all the while the dashboard data blinks and blinks, we know the fuel pump is kicking on so perhaps it could be that relay switch you were talking about, we just took it to HONDA tonight, so hopefully, I'll be able to update you with more tomorrow.
Apryl :banghead:
Well, since the issue is intermittent, it may be a pain to nail down.
Somehow you need to figure out if this is a fuel delivery problem or a spark problem. When it does not start, does it kick at all like it's trying, or just cranking away? Also, do you smell fuel near the tailpipe when you've been cranking it but it doesn't start? This and any other symptoms might help.
On older Hondas, there was a relay up under the dash that turned on the fuel pump when you were starting and running the engine. It would go bad such that when the interior of the car got hot, the relay would not close and the car would just crank and crank. When the car cooled off (or you open the door for awhile) the solder joints inside the relay would connect again and the engine would run perfectly. You can search the internet for Honda main relay and get all kinds of hits about it.
However, I thought Honda fixed that in the mid-90s. However, it might be a possibility, especially if you cannot hear the fuel pump run when your turn the ignition to "on" when the car is in it's "no start" mood.
Other possibilities...if the engine compartment gets very hot, you can vapor the injector rails, especially if the fuel pressure regulator is not working right. However, that would probably cause some performance loss when you are accelerating hard. So, if the car runs pretty good and has a lot of pep, it is probably not the cause.
The bottom line is that you really need to be able to check fuel pressure and spark right when it is not starting. If you wait for the mechanic, it may not do it!
On the transmission, you can talk with them and see if you qualify for the extended coverage. Worth a try, but ask before they work on it so they don't tell you they won't cover it AFTER they've already worked on it.....
Hope this helps....perhaps you can give more symptoms and I and other can help out.....Glen
Glen_T
04-26-2007, 06:58 PM
If you're sure that fuel is getting to the engine, then that might explain the catalytic converter code. You could have gotten excess fuel in the converter and the system might have triggered a code.
If the relay is bad, the fuel pump does not turn on, so that would appear to not be the problem.
It would appear that you are getting fuel, so it may be that you are not getting spark. What is strange is that most of the issues with the ignition system are detected and a code is stored.
I might suggest that the coil is bad due to heat. But I believe your engine is a V6 which has individual coils on each spark plug. So, it's unlikely that all 6 went bad.
Well, at this point I guess you'll just have to wait to see what Honda says. They should be able to get to the bottom of it....good luck, and keep us all posted....Glen
If the relay is bad, the fuel pump does not turn on, so that would appear to not be the problem.
It would appear that you are getting fuel, so it may be that you are not getting spark. What is strange is that most of the issues with the ignition system are detected and a code is stored.
I might suggest that the coil is bad due to heat. But I believe your engine is a V6 which has individual coils on each spark plug. So, it's unlikely that all 6 went bad.
Well, at this point I guess you'll just have to wait to see what Honda says. They should be able to get to the bottom of it....good luck, and keep us all posted....Glen
lisa_odyssey_owner
05-04-2007, 04:58 PM
I don't know if you have recently had a key made, but I had a key made at a local hardware department and it will open the doors and such, but it will only allow the engine to turn over, not start. As soon as I put the factory key in it starts like a dream.
snuzzardbuzzard
05-15-2007, 05:12 PM
Hi Glen,
Finally got my issue figured out, the immobilizer unit kept engaging and recognizing me as a thief because of a signal loss from the reluctor ring, 400.00 later it's fixed! THANKS for your imput and help!
apryl:shakehead :eek:
Well, since the issue is intermittent, it may be a pain to nail down.
Somehow you need to figure out if this is a fuel delivery problem or a spark problem. When it does not start, does it kick at all like it's trying, or just cranking away? Also, do you smell fuel near the tailpipe when you've been cranking it but it doesn't start? This and any other symptoms might help.
On older Hondas, there was a relay up under the dash that turned on the fuel pump when you were starting and running the engine. It would go bad such that when the interior of the car got hot, the relay would not close and the car would just crank and crank. When the car cooled off (or you open the door for awhile) the solder joints inside the relay would connect again and the engine would run perfectly. You can search the internet for Honda main relay and get all kinds of hits about it.
However, I thought Honda fixed that in the mid-90s. However, it might be a possibility, especially if you cannot hear the fuel pump run when your turn the ignition to "on" when the car is in it's "no start" mood.
Other possibilities...if the engine compartment gets very hot, you can vapor the injector rails, especially if the fuel pressure regulator is not working right. However, that would probably cause some performance loss when you are accelerating hard. So, if the car runs pretty good and has a lot of pep, it is probably not the cause.
The bottom line is that you really need to be able to check fuel pressure and spark right when it is not starting. If you wait for the mechanic, it may not do it!
On the transmission, you can talk with them and see if you qualify for the extended coverage. Worth a try, but ask before they work on it so they don't tell you they won't cover it AFTER they've already worked on it.....
Hope this helps....perhaps you can give more symptoms and I and other can help out.....Glen
Finally got my issue figured out, the immobilizer unit kept engaging and recognizing me as a thief because of a signal loss from the reluctor ring, 400.00 later it's fixed! THANKS for your imput and help!
apryl:shakehead :eek:
Well, since the issue is intermittent, it may be a pain to nail down.
Somehow you need to figure out if this is a fuel delivery problem or a spark problem. When it does not start, does it kick at all like it's trying, or just cranking away? Also, do you smell fuel near the tailpipe when you've been cranking it but it doesn't start? This and any other symptoms might help.
On older Hondas, there was a relay up under the dash that turned on the fuel pump when you were starting and running the engine. It would go bad such that when the interior of the car got hot, the relay would not close and the car would just crank and crank. When the car cooled off (or you open the door for awhile) the solder joints inside the relay would connect again and the engine would run perfectly. You can search the internet for Honda main relay and get all kinds of hits about it.
However, I thought Honda fixed that in the mid-90s. However, it might be a possibility, especially if you cannot hear the fuel pump run when your turn the ignition to "on" when the car is in it's "no start" mood.
Other possibilities...if the engine compartment gets very hot, you can vapor the injector rails, especially if the fuel pressure regulator is not working right. However, that would probably cause some performance loss when you are accelerating hard. So, if the car runs pretty good and has a lot of pep, it is probably not the cause.
The bottom line is that you really need to be able to check fuel pressure and spark right when it is not starting. If you wait for the mechanic, it may not do it!
On the transmission, you can talk with them and see if you qualify for the extended coverage. Worth a try, but ask before they work on it so they don't tell you they won't cover it AFTER they've already worked on it.....
Hope this helps....perhaps you can give more symptoms and I and other can help out.....Glen
Glen_T
05-15-2007, 10:02 PM
Good to hear you got it figured out, but it's too bad it was that expensive. Thanks for posting the solution so others can learn what to check.....take care, Glen
draaaca
07-17-2007, 01:34 PM
Hi Glen,
Finally got my issue figured out, the immobilizer unit kept engaging and recognizing me as a thief because of a signal loss from the reluctor ring, 400.00 later it's fixed! THANKS for your imput and help!
apryl:shakehead :eek:
What are the immobalizer unit and the reluctor ring? Sounds like something from Star Trek.
Finally got my issue figured out, the immobilizer unit kept engaging and recognizing me as a thief because of a signal loss from the reluctor ring, 400.00 later it's fixed! THANKS for your imput and help!
apryl:shakehead :eek:
What are the immobalizer unit and the reluctor ring? Sounds like something from Star Trek.
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