New Headunit

I have heard that if you add a new aftermarket head unit to the G, The stock amps can/will burn out. Is this true? Does anybody out there have an aftermarket head unit and the stock amps still hooked up?

I'm running that kind of setup right now and so far nothing bad has happened. I did buy an aftermarket harness for this tho' cause the wiring is apparently different. BTW the system in mine was a clarion...is this common in the G?

Zykotik,
How long have you had that setup for? I installed a Pioneer Deh-p 7200 w/ 50 Watts per channel max. The volume bar is at 1/5 full, and its soooooo loud!!! Now I think I will replace the speakers with something that can handle the power.

I've been running it for all of 48 hours. :)

oh, jeeze, you made it sound like you had it for months or something. lol.

Sorry man :) The only thing I've noticed so far is that the amp for the subs seems to get hot and it's not driving as hard as it could...The stock part of the system (Kenwood head with stock speakers and clarion stock amps) seems to be running fine.

This G I am doing doesn't have a sub... yet. I think the kid is just gonna get new speakers and leave everything else

what kind of subs do you have in ur car Zykotik?

JBL's...they're decent. You?

I got a single 12" pioneer. It was really cheap. I have no money. :o( Its rated at 400 watts max, and I have ajenson (cheap) two channel bridged 300 watt amp powering it. I used to have dual JL's an MTX blue thunder, and an alpine 800 watt 4 channel amp, but it wasn't mine. My friend loaned it to me cuz he took it out of his car, and when he got a new car, I had to give it back:o( I loved that MTX)
I have a Kenwood KDC 516s head unit. (I have a civic, not a G20) The G that I am working on has a pioneer head, with the dolphins swimming across and ish.

Originally posted by Swonder67
Zykotik,
How long have you had that setup for? I installed a Pioneer Deh-p 7200 w/ 50 Watts per channel max. The volume bar is at 1/5 full, and its soooooo loud!!! Now I think I will replace the speakers with something that can handle the power.

Hey guys...when using the stock amps and amplified outputs, you need to put an inline dB reducer...they're not that expensive...only bout $20ish...and you can turn down the signal coming out of the headunit. This is especially important when using stock amps and then using the PRE-OUTS for a sub...

A380,
How does that inline db reducer hook up? I remember seeing a whole new wiring harness that lowers the watts coming out of the head unit. What exactly does it do? just lower the distortion/feedback that comes out of the speakers? Cuz that doesn't bother me. Or do I absolutely need it?

Originally posted by Swonder67
A380,
How does that inline db reducer hook up? I remember seeing a whole new wiring harness that lowers the watts coming out of the head unit. What exactly does it do? just lower the distortion/feedback that comes out of the speakers? Cuz that doesn't bother me. Or do I absolutely need it?

Well, when you hook it up, it will go inbetween the Headunit wire harness and the seperate wire harness that you purchased to plug into the stock harness. You would normally just hook up the two harnesses together, however, becuase you have stock amps, you are amplifying the signal twice before it gets to the speakers, which creates some distortion and also the stock speakers can definatly not take it. That is why you will notice that you cannot even come close to turning your volume all the way up. When you install the reducer, when properly set (usually to take out about 1/2-2/3 of the amps) you will be able to just about turn your volume all the way up.

Depending on what kind you get, it will usually have four adjustments, for each speaker L/R F/R... basically you will have to sit there with the unit hanging out and adjust them as you adjust the volume on your headunit. When you are satisfied, shove it back in there with all the other wire crap. Now, you can get a more expensive unit (like an equalizer) that can be external and allows you to control it whenever you want.

It will make your sound clearer when using stock amps...also, it is crucial to have this if you are using pre-outs to run a signal to an amp for a sub (or whatever it is). If you dont, then you will only be able to turn your volume up 1/4 of the way (just an example) and that means that only 1/4 volume is going to the amp and the sub which will give you like no bass whatsoever...

A380,
Is that little noise distortion and not being able to turn the volume all the way up the only bad side effect to running the head unit amp and the stock amps together? I plan on changing the speakers anyway. I just want to know if it will hurt the system in any way.

Originally posted by Swonder67
A380,
Is that little noise distortion and not being able to turn the volume all the way up the only bad side effect to running the head unit amp and the stock amps together? I plan on changing the speakers anyway. I just want to know if it will hurt the system in any way.

Well distortion can cause fatigue in the speakers faster, but it probably has minimal effect, just bad sound. However, you can run too much power to the speakers with your setup and since the cones are paper, theres a good chance of blowing one.

oh yeah, I would definitely change the speakers to something that can handle the power better. Like Cerwin vegas, or Polks, or clarion. Do you know what the speaker size is on the P10? I think they are 6 1/2 in the back, and I'm not even sure about the front.