New Engine

Hello guys got a question I have these 86 Z28 Camaro that I bought from this person he put in a 350 in it (swap from 305 originaly) I have been working on it here and there but still can't get it to pass smog. Now I 'm trying to save my money and buy brand new complete engine from maybe not to sure GM PERFORMANCE or somewhere else. What would be the best to get I'm looking in general performace and horsepower I heard about these LS and ZZ4 engines don't know too much about them and not to sure wether to go with carburator or fuel injected what would you guys recommend or suggest
THANK YOU

Why won't it pass smog with the 350 it has now?

It's going to be alot cheaper to just fix the one you have now, than to buy a new crate from GM Performance...

I went to a smog shop to have a pre-smog done and the results were bad reasons that fail is because of the air injection, vacuum lines to sensors/switches disconnected, ignition timing fail but got these one fix I bought a timing light and move it to 8 degree that's according to the manuel book so don't know if it right because other book said 6 degree so which one is right. Some wiring sensors disconnected and the MIL /check engine light fail all other O.k. Also exceeded the gross polluter limits.This is why I was thinking in getting a brand new engine or else don't know too much about cars but I'm hanging in there doing what I can.

Another thing too is that the fuel gage is reding full and pass the full line so don't know how much gas I have went to junk yard got one replaced it and still does the same thing can't get an acquarate reading. Same thing goes for the oil gage needle shakes not steady so don't know what could be wrong and original computer if wondering.

First off, getting a GM crate engine isn't going to solve any of your current problems. You'll still need to hook up all of the sensors, vacuum lines, air injection and set the timing on the thing.
If you have a TPI engine your timing should be 6 degrees BTDC (before top dead center) in drive (block the wheels and set the parking brake and for god's sake keep your and off the throttle)
The check engine light is probably on because of all the things you say are disconnected. That is probably also the reason for failing for plllutants.
A new engine also won't fix the fuel gauge being off or the oil gauge bouncing around.
You need to start off by getting a repair manual for the car and figure out what all is disconnected and where it goes. Hook it all up. Set the timing. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes to clear all codes. Then take it for a drive and see if the check eng light comes on. If it does, pull the codes and go from there.

:1:

New engine will do you no justice wich is why I asked why it failed. Chances are Morley, seeing that the swap was done half baked, the EFI was ditched in favor of the goold ol "just throw a carb on it" mentallity, which could explain the fuel gauge problem too. Although, in '86 wasn't the HO still available?

Thank you for your feedback guys. Let me clarify one thing about the MIL/Engine light coming on. It happened when the smog was being done not when I drive it around. But any ways I went to an auto wreck and got couple of wires and hookups that were missing from my 86 Camaro and plug then in, there's still some in there that I don't know where they go or what they do and like I said NO ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON when engine is running/drive around the block. Now I'm thinking in buying a SCAN READER /CODE READER to get all error code if any and hopefully follow that and correct any problems. So is that a good way for me to follow and have the emissions corrected and hopefully pass smog because like I said before the engine was swapped from a 305 to 350.

like I said before the engine was swapped from a 305 to 350.
Understood on the swap.
To get a clearer picture..Is this a TPI engine or the carbed version?

To get your codes out you don't need a scanner or "code reader". You need a paperclip and the ability to count...thats it.
Straighten the paperclip out then bend it in a U shape. Next locate your ALDL connector (driver's right knee just under the lip of the dash). Put the ends of the paperclip in the top right hand 2 holes (pins A & B). Turn the key to "on" but don't start the engine. You'll hear some clicking and the electric fan will come on, this is normal.
Now, watch your check engine light. It should flash once, then pause and flash twice more. This is code 12 and it will flash it 3 times then move on to any stored codes. Each code will flash 3 times then move on to the next code until all codes have been reported and then it will go back to 12. Then turn the key off and remove the paperclip.

As an example...a code 33 would be 3 quick flashes, a pause and three more quick flashes.
Post any codes you find to this thread...along with which type of induction you have (TPI/Carb).
The biggest problem with people doing a swap from 305 to 350 in a 3rd gen is they don't put in a calapck for a 350, or if they do the 350 has a bigger cam, different heads, etc, than the stock 350's that came in the cars that had 350's. Another thing people don't do is they don't put in a 350 knock sensor.

O.k. did the paper clip to get the trouble codes if any and didn't get anything at all not even these 12 code which is the shake hand with the computer. So I don't know if there is any trouble code at all or if there's something wrong with the computer. Also discover my brake lights does not work properly and what I found out is that with the engine off I press on the brake lights and the light comes on, start the engine press on the brake and light comes on and at same time my instrument panels and these is with headlights off, turn headlights on and the brake lights doesn't work at all. So can somebody tell me what could be wrong.

You could try a new (junkyard) ECM and see if that atleast gives you back your code 12. IF not, you have wiring problems. Your brake lights are also a wiring problem or possibly a combination of burned out lights. Check all bulbs for proper operation and then go from there.

didn't get anything at all not even these 12 code .

Seeing that everything is disconnected and the check engine light does not come on while driving, that does not suprise me.

So itereating the same question previously asked, what type of fuel delivery does this thing have???

O.K. it's a carburator one and to let you guys know I just replaced the computer and this one seems to be working because I actually can know get these 12 code (BLINK puase BLINK, BLINK) nothing else happens after that it just keep repeating. But know I don't know what happen with the car because it won't stay on it actually turns off after a few seconds. I thought it was the new computer I put in but it's not because I put the old one back in and it does the same thing. Do you guys know what could be this time. New comp back on no trouble code reported.

Good news on getting code 12 back. A couple quick questioins. When it shuts off, will it restart right away? When it shuts off does it sputter and shake first or does it just die?

If it won't restart right away and sputters as it is dieing, I would say get the ignition module checked. If that checks out good, get a spark plug and pull one of the wires and hook it to the plug. Hold the plug against a good ground (engine block or other bare metal) have someone try to start the car and look at the spark color. If it is orange or red, you have a problem with either the primary coil or secondary coil. If the spark does check good, then it must be a fuel delivery problem. Possibly the pump isn't putting out enough fuel volume and or pressure.
If the module checks bad, only replace it with AC Delco, the off the shelf brands are junk and will fail in less than a month.

:1:

New engine will do you no justice wich is why I asked why it failed. Chances are Morley, seeing that the swap was done half baked, the EFI was ditched in favor of the goold ol "just throw a carb on it" mentallity, which could explain the fuel gauge problem too. Although, in '86 wasn't the HO still available?
yes it was

Although, in '86 wasn't the HO still available?
Yes, 1987 was the last year a carb was offered and all of the carbed engines were 305's. Since he later posted that a new ECM now gives code 12 but no other codes, we have to assume that the previous owner just put a 350 under the 305's induction system, carb and all. and that ain't a good thing either. Since the jets, metering rods and fuel solenoid were all sized for a 305 he is more than likely underfueling the engine. Once he gets it running he needs to get larger jets and metering rods put in. There isn't anything he can do about the fuel solenoid but it doesn't play that big of a role in fueling (just fuel trimming based on O2 feedback).

Morley thank you on the feedback about replacing the ECM. Now I'll be moving from California to North Carolina with in the next few months so I don't know what is the requirements for smog out there and there still a lot of things that needs to be done on these car in order for me to have the smog done and at the same time have the car running properly and finish registration with DMV. Now there is these sticker on the car which is about an ACCEL performance product HEI Super Coil part # 140003/140005 which is need it to pass the california smog. So I don't know if these is the type of coil you are talking about and the car doesn't really start right away it does sometimes and sometimes I have to step on the gas to get it to start so I don't know what kind of problem is these. Actually starts right away and it suddenly dies. I start the car again and it won't start unless I step on the gas pedal and then start but it dies. Are carburator cars suppose to start right away or does it take some times. I dont know if these answer your questions about the coil but I try starting the car today and won't start I don't even see the CHOKE light anymore so I really don't know what went wrong these time and the only thing I can tell you is that I found a wire that was attached to the alternator broken so I fixed it and the Choke light came n so I don't know if they are related and know I dont see these CHOKE light anymore and wire to alternator still attached and card won't start what could be wrong these time.
Thank you

The Accel Super coil is one of the coils in the ignition system (I run one of those also). The other coil is in the distributor and the distributor has to be removed and disassembled to replace it.
Since you say it will start if you hit the gas pedal (then die) suggests that the ignition system may be alright. (Timing may be way off though). Carbed cars never did start right up, try pumping the gas pedal 3 timed before cranking it, then if it doesn't start up, keep cranking while pumping the pedal. If it then starts and dies right away, check that the choke isn't closed (butterflys in the top of the carb). If they are Ok then I would suspect that the carb is no good. I don't have a lot of faith in rebuilt computer controled carbs.
Being in the Republik of Kalifornia there are few options open to you. If the county you move to in N.C. doesn't have emissions testing you could try a non computer carb in it and see if it will run with that. You could get one from a junkyard for a late 70's GM car for very little money, buy a rebuild kit for $20 and give it a shot.