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Intake Manifold Bolts ?


errorcauser
04-16-2007, 10:40 PM
I've read to use pipe dope as well as loctite. What's the best to do ? Just use blue loctite ? I mean that would seal, as well as hold the bolts in place right ? If I need both, what's the best procedure to go about applying both ? Apply loctite near the first few threads near the tip of the bolt, and pipe dope on the rest of the threads. I can't see mixing pipe dope and loctite. Seems that would kill the loctites abilities. I'm "cornfused" I guess. :screwy: I'm near settled on using just the blue loctite. Is or will that be a mistake for me ? :nono:

Thanks.
2000
3100 V6

Negatoro
04-17-2007, 12:50 AM
My shop manual calls for pipe dope [doesn't mention thread locker] on the vertical LIM bolts.

I used blue loctite on the threads and a dab of black RTV under the bolt head for the hell of it -- I'd imagine the dope just keeps oil in the valley from seeping out of the LIM. I could be totally wrong, so someone else chime in.

errorcauser
04-17-2007, 06:32 AM
My shop manual calls for pipe dope [doesn't mention thread locker] on the vertical LIM bolts.

I used blue loctite on the threads and a dab of black RTV under the bolt head for the hell of it -- I'd imagine the dope just keeps oil in the valley from seeping out of the LIM. I could be totally wrong, so someone else chime in.

Thanks for the info man. We'll see what others have to add.

richtazz
04-17-2007, 07:04 AM
All of these bolts go into blind holes, so pipe dope is not necessary. You want to use blue loc-tite, as you're trying to prevent the bolts from loosening back up, not prevent fluid from leaking past the threads.

errorcauser
04-17-2007, 07:19 AM
All of these bolts go into blind holes, so pipe dope is not necessary. You want to use blue loc-tite, as you're trying to prevent the bolts from loosening back up, not prevent fluid from leaking past the threads.

Thanks man. That's what I was needing to know, that's for sure. So, blue loctite it is. One more question if you don't mind. I know I'm going to drop some water into the motor from removing the intake, well after reading a bit I figure I will anyway.

I don't have anyway to blow the water out of the intake with compressed air. I plan on draining the oil, and replacing it when finished and before I start the car. Now, should I run that oil change until the engine warms up, and change it again when the engine warms up, or should I wait and drive it a bit, then change it ?
This is a critical step for sure. If I get this wrong, the wife wont allow me to park the airplane in the hanger anymore, if you know what I mean. :rolleyes: And it's a pretty nice hanger.

errorcauser
04-17-2007, 12:35 PM
I take it since I've gotten no replies, that this is a humorless style operation around here, no ? :shakehead :disappoin

WalrusInc
04-17-2007, 08:07 PM
If you drain the coolant first you shouldn't need to worry about the minor bit that gets around. If you don't drain it first, you'll wish you had. Yuck. Don't worry bout the oil change if you're careful with the coolant. If you're changin the oil after the op but before ya start yer clean brother.

Negatoro
04-19-2007, 09:45 PM
drain the radiator, most of the water will come out. drain oil.

some water will spill into the motor, some teeny bits of rtv might get into the motor.

before installing the new gaksets/LIM i flushed the valley good with a quart of oil.

when complete, top off coolant with 50/50 dexcool/water, fill oil and drive her ~500 miles, then oil and filter change.

That's what I did.

errorcauser
04-19-2007, 11:08 PM
drain the radiator, most of the water will come out. drain oil.

some water will spill into the motor, some teeny bits of rtv might get into the motor.

before installing the new gaksets/LIM i flushed the valley good with a quart of oil.

when complete, top off coolant with 50/50 dexcool/water, fill oil and drive her ~500 miles, then oil and filter change.

That's what I did.

Well I've got it done and it's running great. Might have been overkill but, I bought three of those five quart type jugs of pennzoil and a couple filters. When I finished, I started it long enough to drive it up on a couple ramps and changed out the oil. I backed it down off the ramps, filled the coolant, let it sit and run till it got up to temp and then some, and drove it back up on the ramps and changed the oil and filter again. After that, I took it on about a ten or fifteen mile ride, brought it back and changed the oil and filter one last time. Just wanted to be safe. A couple filters and three 10 dollar jugs a pennzoil is way cheaper than an engine, right ? No more coolant loss, and it's sure got clean oil. :naughty:

Thanks to all you guys for the helpful replies ! :cheers:

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