Blinker switch

Whenever i put on the left blinker, it comes on but when i turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and back, the blinker arm doesnt shut off automaticly. it works when i turn it to the right though. probably something on the switch right?

It's probably wear on the cam itself, or the cam actuator on the turn signal switch.

This is something on what the switches look like right? http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/ACDelco/D6223.jpg

Check your canceling springs. They used to fail so frequently, GM used to offer boxes of ten of them for about three dollars. I think I still have half a box around here somewhere.

Yup:

http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/TurnSignalSpring.jpg

When you reassemble, clean all the moving parts and apply a fresh layer of white lithium grease.

ok ill try the grease. how do i access the switch? i know the steering wheel gets removed, i dont know where to go beyond that though

You need 2 pullers. One to do the wheel, the other to depress that spring and remove the plate above it. A good manual should be able to show you how, even something as old as '77 or so, anything GM should be basically the same.

Mine does that too, I just haven't gotten around to doing it yet. Either the springs break or one of the ears break off the canceling plate for the turn signal assembly.

Bob

Your car will be a little easier if there is no VATS wiring and SIR coil/wiring/gas bag. If you have VATS, there are only two more wires that need to be handled. With SIR, you have an entire additional procedure to remove and reassemble the system. You really should have a service manual in hand for that procedure.

Start by centering the steering wheel, so that the wheel can be replaced in exactly the same position on the shaft easily. The steering shaft is both marked and keyed, but centering the wheel makes the job easier to "eyeball", and keeps the turn signal canceling cam out of the way in later steps.

Next, remove the hazard flasher knob on the lower right side of the steering column. There should be a small (#0) Phillips screw holding the knob in place. Find the release clip or bolts for the horn sounder pad and remove it. As the pad is removed from the wheel, unplug the horn wire from the connector on the pad. Remove the horn sounder wire and the insulator that guides the wire through the steering wheel. The insulating sleeve needs to be pushed inward slightly, twisted ¼ turn anticlockwise, and removed from the wheel. There is a light spring in the sleeve, so make sure all the parts are removed together.

Remove the safety clip from the steering shaft, then remove the nut. You might have to have an assistant help hold the wheel while you turn the nut loose. Install the bolts from your steering wheel puller into the tapped holes in the wheel, and turn the puller screw to release the wheel from the steering shaft.

Depress the notched wheel locking plate and remove the locking ring located at the center of the plate. There is a special tool for holding the wheel locking plate while the snap ring is removed, and it will be worth the $15.00 you'll pay for it. It can be done without the tool, but it is an exercise in frustration unless you are an octopus. I've done it several times using the "Armstrong" method, now I have the tool and use the "Brainstrong" method instead.

http://72.19.213.157/files/ColumnLockPlate.gif

When the wheel locking plate is removed, you can look at the left lower side of the turn signal switch and see a pan head Phillips or Torx screw that holds the turn signal lever in place. Remove this screw and plate, then move the lever out of the way. There are three more pan head screws that hold the turn signal/hazard lamp switch to the upper column. Remove those and lift the turn signal switch out of the way. You may need to feed some extra wire from under the column to allow the switch to clear the steering shaft and move out of the way completely.

http://72.19.213.157/files/TurnSignalSwitch.gif

Take time to clean and grease all the moving parts so you can have another ten years of reliable operation. Every moving part, including the turn signal switch and canceling cam, should be cleaned and lubricated with white lithium grease.

When assembly is complete, torque the steering wheel nut to 35 ft/lb. There are already enough loose nuts behind steering wheels on our roadways....

Great tutorial, a picture is worth 1000 words. I've had the wheel on and off my '84 so many times I can do it blindfolded.

The real fun is when you get deeper, beyond what you're doing, into the column. Take digital pictures as you go just for reference if you have trouble lining something up.

Bob

pictures are even better for me, thanks. ill take everything apart and see what broke

are these also the same steps for removing the turn signal handle? our wipers wont turn off. so we are going to get a new handle.

Depending on the make and year of your car, (also where the switch is) the wipers not turning off can be another problem. On my '84 Caprice it was the washer/timing unit which is located under the hood. Eventually my switch on the steering column wore out. It had lost the "clicks" and all the detents that went with it.

Bob