1996 5.0 won't start cold
North Coast Hotrod
04-12-2007, 08:43 PM
I have a 1996 vortec 5.0 that will not start when it is cold without using starting fluid. Once it warms up, it starts fine. The truck sat for about a year, and I have no service history on the truck. I do have a chiltons manual for the truck. Any suggestions on where to start looking for the problem would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Paul
Thanks
Paul
JSTMoto
04-13-2007, 12:31 AM
There are tons of things to check into. Because no one else has chimed in i thought i put some ideas in the air to get you looking for a fix.
I suggest these things:
1. Complete injection system cleaning. This is probably the culprit.
2. Inspect ALL vaccum hoses for any cracks, dont be afraid to replace them if they look old.
3. Fuel filter, i suggest just changing it, it probably needs it anyway.
4. Regular tune-up (plugs, wires, etc)
5. check fuel pressure when its cold, should be i think somewhere just above 50 psi (check your manual on this psi), this is an important one.
now because your truck sat, i suggest these along with the ones above:
1. change ALL fluids, including diff lube, tranny lube ( i wouldnt flush it if you have an auto, you will probably be ok not touching the tranny but if you want to drop the pan and drain the 3 or so quarts in the pan and refill it back to proper level), transfer case lube (if applicable), antifreeze coolant, and of course engine oil. ( you probably already have some of those done anyway, just listing to be as thorough as possible)
2. Grease all zerks under truck if there are any, the chilton manual should show you the locations of them, i dont have chilton manuals but the locations of the grease zerks are usually in there.
3. check seals for leaks, diff pinion seals, crank seals, valve covers, etc. the rubber may have hardened when the vehicle sat therefore creating a leak that you may not want to have (do you have one of those spotless driveways?)
4. check for critter nests, and chewed wires. these problems usually exist if you live in rural areas.
now, i went over the top for this list but it may be worth while. You dont have to do everything but i guess a good inspection of everything should be fine. Im not a professional mechanic so take my advice for what is worth. I hope this gets you in the right direction until someone else can chime in.
-ja
I suggest these things:
1. Complete injection system cleaning. This is probably the culprit.
2. Inspect ALL vaccum hoses for any cracks, dont be afraid to replace them if they look old.
3. Fuel filter, i suggest just changing it, it probably needs it anyway.
4. Regular tune-up (plugs, wires, etc)
5. check fuel pressure when its cold, should be i think somewhere just above 50 psi (check your manual on this psi), this is an important one.
now because your truck sat, i suggest these along with the ones above:
1. change ALL fluids, including diff lube, tranny lube ( i wouldnt flush it if you have an auto, you will probably be ok not touching the tranny but if you want to drop the pan and drain the 3 or so quarts in the pan and refill it back to proper level), transfer case lube (if applicable), antifreeze coolant, and of course engine oil. ( you probably already have some of those done anyway, just listing to be as thorough as possible)
2. Grease all zerks under truck if there are any, the chilton manual should show you the locations of them, i dont have chilton manuals but the locations of the grease zerks are usually in there.
3. check seals for leaks, diff pinion seals, crank seals, valve covers, etc. the rubber may have hardened when the vehicle sat therefore creating a leak that you may not want to have (do you have one of those spotless driveways?)
4. check for critter nests, and chewed wires. these problems usually exist if you live in rural areas.
now, i went over the top for this list but it may be worth while. You dont have to do everything but i guess a good inspection of everything should be fine. Im not a professional mechanic so take my advice for what is worth. I hope this gets you in the right direction until someone else can chime in.
-ja
North Coast Hotrod
04-13-2007, 06:17 AM
Thank you very much for the very detailed list! Im sure it will get me going in the right direction.
Paul
Paul
MT-2500
04-13-2007, 09:43 AM
Leading cause of no start cold is fuel pressure.
Even a couple of lbs low and your injector will not squirt cold.
Hard to start cold.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak.
Post back fuel pressure readings.
MT
Even a couple of lbs low and your injector will not squirt cold.
Hard to start cold.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak.
Post back fuel pressure readings.
MT
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