mech. fan thermo clutch test?? Any way ?

My Jeep is gettin real warm when it sits at idle or in traffic( 220-230 +ish) I'm wondering if there's a way to test my fan clutsh , the bolts look new but it has some drag cold and warm. Thoughts , comments , suggestions?

t stat.. check the fins on the radiator and make sure the secondary fan is comming on...

My Jeep is gettin real warm when it sits at idle or in traffic( 220-230 +ish) I'm wondering if there's a way to test my fan clutsh , the bolts look new but it has some drag cold and warm. Thoughts , comments , suggestions?
I removed mine punched it with hummer couple of times and clutch is "holding" great now. I did it after buying new one which i believe didn't hold when it was hot. I installed "modified" old one. It didn't help eliminate problem completely so I got HD radiator. I will check el fan tomorrow.

Well, Iguess the aux elec fan temsender is fine and she kicks on at around 220. the fins on the radiator look OK but the A/C condenser fins are 30% bent. The tranny cooler in about the same condition as the condenser. No rust though . I'm changing the thermostat today (superstat 195) , Should I flush it too? A mechanic said with 124000 miles on it I could dislodge gunk in the block and and stick it in a less advantageous area like the radiator. Is there that big of a risk or should I just do it? I just got it 5 or 6 months ago and don't know when it was flushed last. Thanks for the input everyone!

Get one of the Prestone flush kits and follow the instructions. It's way better to do the flush when you are changing the thermostat. Take out the thermostat when you flush and hold the waterpump in place with all of the hoses hooked up. That way you will flush the whole block and get all of the "gunk" out. Just watch out for the cap on the T-splice with the kit. They tend to crack after a couple years. Either get a spare kit or look for a brass cap at Lowes or such.

Finishing the flush now The old thermo look hoorible . I flushed already with the prestone but with the new thermo on. I thinking about taking it back off and flushing all the crap I heard out of the block. It won't clog me up will it? Just the last bit of the flush still in the system. Should be fine I hope . Here goes! BTW temp is fine now but that is with the heater on during the closed flush. Wont even get to 210 with the hose going. Is that still gonna clean my block? It seems like there is some corrosion in there.

You can't get away from the corrosion; hopefully all the loose stuff is out of there.

I'd recommend doing a drain and fill of the coolant every 18 months; besides being antifreeze, antifreeze does have additives to keep corrosion at bay. I've never had a corrosion related problem with 18 month coolant changes, and I've owned a lot of older cars.

They have you do it with the engine running and the heater on so you will flush out your heater core in addition to opening the thermostat and flushing out the block. I suppose if you want to do this without the engine running and get all of the nooks and cranies, you have to disengage the heater control valve. Just unhook the silver bar from the plastic loop on the valve. It will open the heater core for a flush. With the thermostat out and the pump mounted, you could do a pretty good flush of the entire system. Hook up the hose to the T-connector and pull one side off going to the engine. Now turn on your hose and block the open side of the T-connector with your hand. This will allow the water from the hose to go through the entire system and come out of the open hose. It will only work with the thermostat out and the water pump installed. I think I will do that next time. Another way to do the block is undoing the block plug. Unfurtunately, it requires a pipe socket to undo the square plug on it.

Well I just got done flushing it all and everything seems to bw running cooler.A bunch of crap came out flushed about 5 more times without the thermo in aand everything seems fine if not 20 degrees cooler. In fact my heater gets warm alot sooner than before the way it should. Was closing the hood and checked the tranny fluid . iIt was fine when I got the car 6 months ago but it is quite a bit brown now so time to change it. That's another thread though.Thanks everyone for all the advice.

Flushed the system, but the temp moves up alot higher at a stop. Fan clutch? Everything is fine when I'm moving, just not in gridlock. It doesn't "overheat" per se but it does seem like the air flow drops Alot at stops. Any way to test the fan besides turning by hand hot and cold. Seems like a very objective test. Any more concise/accurate way? Sorry just obsessing a bit! Don't wanna have problems on the trail:uhoh:

Do you have any numbers for the rise in temperature?

Mine get hot on the trail also...maybe 220....usually it is 210 ....or a little under.

Some off-roader are into vent louvers....and some prop the hood up in the back.

Edit...just read your post at the top....has it cooled down at all?? Hard to test...most people replace it...there are different opinions on the brand. Do a search on the "internet"....

Numbers are maybe 20 deg. up in 30 or 40 secs from 195 upto 220. Sounds like yours is the same , maybe I'm just trippin' but I'm replacing the clutch right now. Any thoght on newer related thred re:locknuts?
I'm not thread hoppin' am I?

Took the old clutch off and it was FUBAR! thermo coil had silicone on it and rusted BAAAAD! replaced clutch(PITA)with a HAYDEN and now it seems good! Thank's ya'll
Hope Hayden's a good brand