911GT2 conversion: which base kit?

http://www.singaporeanimenews.net/gt2.jpg

This is a 911GT2 based on the new styling.

I'm planning to build one of these.. would it be better to use a Tamiya 911(996) Carrera, or a 911GT3 as the base for this?

Speaking of the 996 Carrera, does the Italeri set have any advantages over the Tamiya model?

Could you repost the picture, it's not showing. I'm willing to respond, but first like to see what we're talking about here :bloated:

Works fine for me. Try refreshing.

I'm on the same conversion, which is kinda stalled for now. Use GT3 kit, because it has the parts to correctly represent the lowed look of the GT2. Use the standard 996 for Turbo conversion.

I agree with hirofkd, nothing further to add to that.

Hiroaki, how do you intend to change the shape of the headlight lens?

I also forsee a slight problem making the GT2 logo, unless you use the epoxy casting method you mentioned on your page. I tried it myself, but kept deforming the foil once I lifted it off the body.

since u're asking, how can u make the hole in the rear fender? i plan to turn my gt3 in either a turbo or a gt2. thz!

For all those of you with the 911 Carrera and 911GT3 kits by Tamiya, what are the exact differences between them?

GT3 has new wheels, lowered ride height, the GT3 body package, racing style seats, different emblems and decals. It's a better start for a GT2, but you're still in for a lot of work to change the nose, widen the body, and the wheels aren't going to be easy as nobody makes that size/style. I'm hoping against all odds that Tamiya does it eventually.

Hiroaki, how do you intend to change the shape of the headlight lens?
I also forsee a slight problem making the GT2 logo, unless you use the epoxy casting method you mentioned on your page. I tried it myself, but kept deforming the foil once I lifted it off the body.
You might have seen that I do resin casting in my Boxster page. I'll make the profile of the new headlight on the body first, then attach the headlight part and fill the open areas with putty, since the new headlight is bigger in some areas. Remove the lens part in the right shape, and use it as a master for resin casting.

And for the script, I'm going to photo etch myself.

For foil casting, try adding another layer if you are using BareMetal, or use kitchen foil, because it's slightly thicker. And slide in a sharp knife from all four sides when you lift the foil. Try not to touch the grooves once flipped, and let epoxy flow itself.

since u're asking, how can u make the hole in the rear fender? i plan to turn my gt3 in either a turbo or a gt2. thz!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/988882turboduct.jpg
This technique is useful because the template in step (1) will assure you to have two symmetric duct, inlet or outlet like this example. To make two completely symmetric templates, cut out one, and apply a spot of super glue to fix the template on a plastic sheet. Cut it out, using the 1st one as a pattern, and even sand the edge together with a file. Insert a sharp knife in-between, and break the bond.
BTW, the black slit on the rear of the 996 Turbo isn't entirely open, but I think only the front 2/3 are open, and the rest is painted flat black. So, study your reference carefully.

Thanks, how about the hole on the side of the body(the hole will define a normal 996 to a turbo or gt2)?:rolleyes:

Just made a side-by side comparison of the 911 gt2 and tamiya's 911gt3.

http://www.singaporeanimenews.net/gt2sides.jpg

The gt2 has a deeper rear fender.

Just remind you that this is how I would do, and there are so many different techniques and materials you can use.

Modify the kit body
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/497234996tinlet1.jjpg.jpg
Apply polyester putty from inside, about 1 mm thick. (try not to interfere it with the interior tub)
Then, open B area, then sand the A area to shape the duct.

Method 1, using plastic sheet
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/371447996tinlet2.jjpg.jpg
A: make the fender entirely from plastic sheet. (vacuum form from a balsa wood master)
This is a little difficult to keep the symmetry for both sides.
B: Cut the template into sections, and try to make the fenders with plastic sheet as much as possible, and fill the gap with epoxy or polyester putty.
In either case, the shaded area should be blended to the kit body, using putty and sand paper.

Method 2, using polyester putty
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/361764996tinlet3.jjpg.jpg
Use templates, and make the fender with epoxy or polyester putty.
Part (1) is a guide for putty, and it needs part (2), which helps shaping the guide correctly on both sides. Spot-glue them, with a toothpick or something, and that will make the removal of the templates easier.
Build the rest with putty, and once it's cured, remove the templates, and use a needle file to make the edge of the duct thinner.

I'll probably use a combination of Method 1 and 2.

You aren't going to ask me how to make the Turbo wheel, aren't you? :o zzz

If you use method 1, with the plastic to form the rear wheel arches, won't this require the stock wheel arches and the entire surrounding area to be removed? If not, the area overlaid with plastic sheet will be too thick.

I was thinking of drilling the outline of the rear intake, and forming a frame out of sheet plastic that would fit into this outline, and work from there, building up this frame. When finished it can be slotted in and secured from the inside.

Aren't the wheels used on the red gt2 the same as those included with the tamiya 996 carrera?

Well, I guess I'll be starting on this conversion soon.

Originally posted by sausage
If you use method 1, with the plastic to form the rear wheel arches, won't this require the stock wheel arches and the entire surrounding area to be removed? If not, the area overlaid with plastic sheet will be too thick.

Turbo (and GT2) is wider by 65 mm, which is about 2.7 mm, or 1.35 on each side. Tamiya has plastic sheet of 1.0, 0.5, and 0.3, so I'll probably use 1 + 0.5 to enhance the look. Evergreen has odd thickness in metric (but round in English), so combining those, you can obtain more accurate 1.35 mm.

I was thinking of drilling the outline of the rear intake, and forming a frame out of sheet plastic that would fit into this outline, and work from there, building up this frame. When finished it can be slotted in and secured from the inside.

That would work, too. There are many approaches.

Aren't the wheels used on the red gt2 the same as those included with the tamiya 996 carrera?
Well, I guess I'll be starting on this conversion soon.
I believe the 996 GT2 has the same wheel (at least the design-wise) as the Turbo.
http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/frame.mv?file=car.mv&num=436

Thanks again hirofkd, I'll be ok with the rims.:p I'll start my conversion once i finished my gtr.hee:p

I didn't realize the body was wider. Does anyone here have a top view photo that I can overlay on Tamiya's 911gt3 box art to see exactly which areas have been widened?

When surfing on the net I found these pics
http://www.highresautoimages.com/porsche/gt2-2.html
I thought of this thread, maybe there helpful to you:rolleyes: