Steering not aligned

(This question also pertains to front end work done on a Corolla)

Currently on my 89 Caprice, to go straight, the steering wheel has to be kept pointed towards 11 oclock. It goes straight when doing this, but feels unsafe at high speeds as it is already a bit tight from the steering wheel pressure a when doing this this. I had some front parts replaced awhile back and had it aligned but it still keeps doing it. I was wondering if it is likely similar to the situation below (and possible remedy?):

-My gf's corolla just had front work done as well due to noise therefore was serviced at a shop. I noticed when I was driving it yesterday, the same thing is happening (except the wheel has to be pointed at 1oclock). I assume the mechanic didn't align something correctly correctly and should fix it without charge as it went prior to being serviced?

The reason I'm asking is, when my dad's Astro's power steering pump was replaced, it was doing that as well but more severely. My dad told me when they put the pump in, they didn't re-align the steering column or something back properly into the proper 'teeth' as he called it (different mechanic) when the pump was replaced. This was a quick fix and free of charge.

Replacement of a power steering pump does not require a realignment of the car, as it doesn't directly affect any part of the way the suspension and steering components align. The power steering gearbox is another story.

It sounds like there might be a toe issue, so if it was like that right after the alignment, take it back and have it redone. If the car pulls but the alignment checks OK, then check the tires. If you had it done at Pep Boys, shame on you and then take it somewhere else and have it done right. :)

Toe problems don't result in a pull condition, it will however tend to grab cracks in the pavement and wear tires quickly. A pull condition is the result of caster or a "dominant" tire, also known as a "radial pull". The first thing to do is check all air pressures, it will also pull to a low tire. If you don't want to play with the front end adjustment, switch the RF and LF tires.

You can adjust the caster without changing the camber. The '89 car should have shims on the upper control arm. Since the arm is symmetric, you can move shims from the front to back of the arm and not have an impact to camber.

It sounds like your car has a light pull to the right. Meaning that your upper right ball joint is "leading" as compared to the left side. You need to move the caster to a more positive number (upper ball joint leaning back). The adjustment can be made from either side of the car, but we'll discuss the RF for now (I used to take a wrench with me when I road tested a GM car after the alignment).

Loosen up both bolts on your RF (passenger side) upper control arm. You may need a big screw driver to get the shims to move. Take a big (1/8") shim out of the rear of the arm, put it in with the shim pack at the front of the arm. Tighten it up and go for a ride on a lever (no crown) road. You should feel a difference, if not try another full or 1/2 shim.

To do it on the LF side (mechanics choose the easier side to do), you want to move that upper ball joint in a more negative caster direction. The only difference is to take the shim from the front of the arm and add it to the rear of the arm.

Draw it out on paper and you'll understand the concept. I was employed in the front end business for 10 years and this has rarely failed to work.

Bob

i think i know what you are saying.
my car has the same problem

i went to have an alignment done becuase the car was pulling to one side.
if i kept the steering wheel in the center it would drive straight, but it still pulled.
after the alignment it drove straight as an arrow, but the wheel was crooked.
at least thats what happened to me.
you should be able to take it back and say, "look, you screwed up" and they should fix it... however, they might not.
as long as it isnt pulling, then its not a big deal and you will get used to it.

Actually Bob, a toe problem will cause a pull every time. If the toe is a little out of spec, that could make the car overreactive to any input on the steering wheel, but if it's a degree or more, that will cause a pull in the direction of the worn parts (i.e. right outer tie rod wear can cause the car to pull right).