99 Camaro brakes and rotors

I am about to change the brakes and rotors on my sons 99 camaro. Are there any tricks or problem I should know.? Do you have to remove the grease cap to get the rotor off?

front? back? the front rotors will come off easier then the back.. for mine, i was able to remove the front after you remove the caliper. make sure you hang it up tho, so the brake lines dont get kinked/ripped..

the back is harder (seems harder, i never tried) because of the E_brake line connected to it.

front? back? the front rotors will come off easier then the back.. for mine, i was able to remove the front after you remove the caliper. make sure you hang it up tho, so the brake lines dont get kinked/ripped..

the back is harder (seems harder, i never tried) because of the E_brake line connected to it.
You gotta remember that the 98-02's are different than the 93-97's.. so unless you swapped yours out for the newer style, it might be less difficult.


From what I've heard the newer ones that you've got, htb4e, are very simple due to the design. I believe the bracket stays in place, and all you have to do is unbolt to the bolts holding on the caliper. Lift it off, remove pads, and replace with new ones. The rears are almost identical, so there's not much more thats different.

Edit: that's if you were just changing the pads. If you're changing the rotors as well than there are 2 more bolts holding the caliper bracket onto the backside of the spindle. You're going to have to remove those as well to get the whole caliper assembly off. Make sure you get the correct rear rotors as well, because the rear rotors have drum brakes built into them and they use the inside of the back rotor as part of the assembly. So just make sure you have a good size hollow hole in your back rotors. Should be big enough to fit your fist in.


I'm sure someone whose had more experience with them will chime in.

^^^Correct.

Remove caliper. Bolts are metric. 15mm and 18mm depending on front or back if I recall correctly.
Once caliper is removed...rotor will come right off...as long as the e-brake isn't engaged.

I'm not sure if this applies or not, but if your e-brake is a ratcheting type, and the caliper piston slowly threads out as the pads wear, logically it needs to be threaded back in with the correct adapter.

:2cents:

its simple and easy, shouldnt even take u long at all. luos gave u everything u need...are u gonna go with stock stuff or are u going sloted and drilled??

Stock rotors > slotted/drilled rotors

i have heard that b4....what about those gm ones that are the upgrade for the vetts?

Not sure.

All I know...I don't want holes or slots lowering the amount of contact patch the pads use to stop.

Not sure.

All I know...I don't want holes or slots lowering the amount of contact patch the pads use to stop.


True...however, as I'm sure you know Luos, with the holes and slots the brakes stay cooler and also helps keep them from warping. I will admit that most of us don't race our cars every week (at the track) and we don't really need those kinds of rotors. I know if I ever had to do any hard braking I would let off the pedal just alittle to help cool the brakes, unless I really had to stop right then and there (emergency). I think that the performance brakes with the holes and slots are a great upgrade.

But then again, this is coming from a 87-93 Mustang fan. Remember those cars came with basically the same brakes a an Esocort (GOD HELP US ALL)!!

When I had my brakes done I got the slotted rotors put on. I was told that the rotors w/ holes tend to crack between the holes if they get to hot. I went with power slots.

True...however, as I'm sure you know Luos, with the holes and slots the brakes stay cooler and also helps keep them from warping. I will admit that most of us don't race our cars every week (at the track) and we don't really need those kinds of rotors. I know if I ever had to do any hard braking I would let off the pedal just alittle to help cool the brakes, unless I really had to stop right then and there (emergency). I think that the performance brakes with the holes and slots are a great upgrade.

Newer cars have such great cooling as it is...they don't help in most cases. Road racing I can see it for, but even for most cars at the drag strip won't benefit from them.

If you want stopping power...upgrade pads, lines, and fluid.

I agree, when I had my 92 5.0, I turned the rotors and upgraded the pads to racing or performance pads. Like I said, most of us are not racing at the track every week so usually the slotted/drilled rotors are not necesarry. But you have to agree that they are capable of having more stoping power.

But you have to agree that they are capable of having more stoping power.
I don't...sorta.

Having to stop hard once...give me the best contact patch available.
Having to stop hard several times in a row...give me the slotted rotors.

Drilled...stay away from those. They crack.

When i got my car it had drilled rotors and honestly they were great. Now my car has the stock pads and rotors on it and it's noticeably different... my guess is that the pads are where the difference is but we will have to wait to find out when i swap them out.... on the other hand, my stock rotors have warped pretty bad and the drilled rotors hadn't at all... but I guess there are a lot of factors that come into play with that...

I don't...sorta.

Having to stop hard once...give me the best contact patch available.
Having to stop hard several times in a row...give me the slotted rotors.

Drilled...stay away from those. They crack.


Somehow, I knew you would say something like that. This time, I have to agree. Drum brakes give a bigger contact surface however, their lack of ability to keep cool is why they're not used in racing like disc brakes are. So I guess we basically agree with eachother.

I did the repair yesterday. We had several problems. Mainly we cant get the bottom pin back into the caliper. The left rear caliper will not go down far enough on the bottom for the two holes to line up same thing is happening with the front right. Front has a new caliper on it. Front shim will not come off. I removed the rear shim but it did not help. Any ideas....

I always take my car to a brake shop. I will talk to a friend tomorrow if you don't have it figured out by then.

I did the repair yesterday. We had several problems. Mainly we cant get the bottom pin back into the caliper. The left rear caliper will not go down far enough on the bottom for the two holes to line up same thing is happening with the front right. Front has a new caliper on it. Front shim will not come off. I removed the rear shim but it did not help. Any ideas....
Those pins shouldn't have come out I don't believe. At least if we are talking about the same thing.

You need to compress the cylinders back into place to fit a newer larger pad in a caliper. Did you do that?? A 6 inch C clamp and a small solid piece of wood works great. Just make sure you have the fluid fill cracked on the master cylinder.