2000 Rodeo: no codes, sputters and stalls: Trans light and Cruise light comes on

My 2000 Rodeo: The trans light and the cruise light comes on when I go over bumps (sometimes) or when I make a sharp turn.

If feels like the car is about to stall - or that it is loosing power for about 5 seconds. Then the car rebounds and everything is fine untill the next episode.

Sometimes, the car WILL STALL. This happens about 10% of the time.

The dealer says there are no codes. It only happens when the car is moving.

The dealer want to replace the Engine Harness ??? The manifold gasket was already replaced once.

Please help

Before I saw "engine harness" I was thinking "engine harness." Might check grounds. Might jiggle the harness while idling in the driveway to see if you can reproduce it. Can you see any broken wires in there?

Thanks:

I am not sure where the Engine Harness is located? Can you tell me.

The dealer says: "One of the wires felt loose".

Want to order a new part $450 and replace $500.

I could use any advice you can offer

how old is the battery?

I would start with cleaning up the connections and grounds.

The harness that has issues is the one on the drivers side. Start the car up and give it a tug and see if it stumbles.

If you are the original owner it should be covered under the warranty.

NOt sure where (or what) the wire harness is.

But I am willing to learn and try anything.

The car has not problem starting. Why could it be a battery issue?

THanks.

Isuzu electrical systems will do funky things with a weak battery and/or alt.

The harness is a bundle of wires that are located the the right of the coil packs (a coil pack is what is on top of the spark plug).


I checked again and you are correct it is not covered.


If you follow the negative terminal on the battery the wires end at a body ground.

You may want to find a shop that specializes in electrical issues. If they find the one bad wire they can splice in a new one.

http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq61

check the link. there are some good posts in it and one good photo.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Isuzu-Engine-and-Trans-wiring-harness_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQihZ010QQ itemZ200100298612QQrdZ1

used one for sale (the same person has coils for sale too).

this does sound like a harness issue sounds like they may be charging a bit more than they should on the labor end unless they are over $100 per hr and mor tiime than the norm
i do these for our customers for 3.0 hrs at a dealership ask if they can hook u up with a oil change and tire rotate or something cause thats a bit expensive

Thanks.

I live in NY area.

Thank you very much for your reply. It seems to be working well - sort of.

Someone said put dialectric gell on the connections. What do you think.

Any chance there could not be enought transmission fluid in the engine --

causing it to stall.

And how would I check that?

hey I was having these problems http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=702297

I have also had my trans light come on, and usually my reduced power light when I make a sharp right turn.

I tried checking the engine harness, and I got the reduced power light to come on, AND I got the motor to stall. So I opened it up and went thru the wires one by one.
once I got most of the wires seperated, I couldnt get the car to stall anymore. took the car for a test drive and drove it hard and couldn't get any faults. so I started to tape up the wires again, I did maybe half the length of what I cut open - checked the motor, everything was fine - no faults. I taped up the rest and I barely touched the harness and the motor stalled. Needless to say I took the tape off the second half for the time being. to continue testing tomorrow.

With that said - I would try your harness like the others suggested.

just start off near the 'brain' where the harness plugs in (driverside fender - metal thing with two main wire plugs about 4-5" each). with your motor on start squeezing the conduit that the wires are in. I found that putting pressure on the conduit top and bottom and then left to right worked out better than trying to squeeze the conduit as a whole. eventually you will hit a point where you apply pressure and the motor will almost stall or complete stall on you. Again, I'm only at the point where I have seperated the wires and have pulled maybe 20 wires individually - included one of the red/white ones mentioned in FAQ61. I couldnt get the car to stall so I taped them back up yaddi yaddi yadda mentioned above.

sound like you and I might have the same issue! I too feel like its a tranny issue - I mean the trans light comes on! but after checking the harness and seperating the wires giving them some 'breathing room', my truck drove like a dream!

I will keep you updated with my progess if you like

Dude:

like by the tire there is a long "wire harness" with a lot of wires. And underneth it there is a long "wire harness" with a lot of wire and both are attached to this metal looking thing.

So, what do I have to do ? Am I in the right place?

Rodeoblues - just out of curiousity, check to see if your alternator is bolted in tight.

I had a similar occurance, right after my timing belt was replaced, they had forgotten to tighten the bolts on the alt and it was wiggling around causing shortages all over the place.

Just a thought. Also, have that alt tested UNDER a load, if it's less then 14v, find a new one.

yea you are in the right place. Look in the link that amigo-2k posted. if you follow the harness you will get to that point in one of the pictures. my fault was around there

I also have a 2000 rode LS 3.2. The problem I'm having isit surges and sometimes shuts off when I stop. Please help I've cleaned the EGR valve 4 times. Everytime it starts to run better for a while then it stars again.

Please help I'm having the same problems.

I also have a 2000 rode LS 3.2. The problem I'm having isit surges and sometimes shuts off when I stop. Please help I've cleaned the EGR valve 4 times. Everytime it starts to run better for a while then it stars again.

do what I did, posted on pg1. My truck has been running mint ever since I went thru the harness. so surging or stalling out at all!

do what I did, posted on pg1. My truck has been running mint ever since I went thru the harness. so surging or stalling out at all!



Does anyone know where the TPS is on the 3.2 2000 LS Rodeo is or where I can find a photo of it.
Thanks

do what I did, posted on pg1. My truck has been running mint ever since I went thru the harness. so surging or stalling out at all!

That's what I did . I went through the harness and found a bad wire. Thanks.

How do I check the Volts on an Alternator, and if it is bolted in right.

I thought the Alternator just charged up the battery.

I did pull on the harness. Caused it to stall, and then I checked some of the clip-connections in the harness near the air intake thingy.

All worked great for about 5 days.

Today -- it spilled all of its transmission fluid out on to the side walk. Any advice.

Dude,
When you take the wires out of the harness to check them.

How do you get them back into the harness to re-attach the thing to the computer?

Today -- it spilled all of its transmission fluid out on to the side walk. Any advice.

Wow. I've only read about that happening once. I don't remember if he's been back since. Where was the leak?

Dude,
When you take the wires out of the harness to check them.

How do you get them back into the harness to re-attach the thing to the computer?

I never took the wires out of the harness. I just unwrapped the tape. I did find one small wire that had three larger wires attached to it.(Here is the problem) they wrapped the connection with duct tape and the heat at glue shorted everything out.

Today -- it spilled all of its transmission fluid out on to the side walk. Any advice.

RodeoBlue - On a *COLD* engine, i.e. after sitting for 6-8hrs, pop your hood, open your radiator and check to see if you're low on coolant. If you are, check your ATF fluid for possible antifreeze contamination - this is rare to happen, BUT, I have heard of it happening on 5+yr old radiators where the transmission cooler is located in the bottom of the radiator, and corrosion has eaten away internally.

This causes antifreeze to drop into your transmission, REALLY BAD, but can also cause it to spit out ATF for no other apparent reason.

The only other thing I can suggest for spilling out ATF is to check your transmission cooler line hoses, and if the tranny was *overfilled* (rare on this design) it will spill out ATF as well.

RodeoBlue - On a *COLD* engine, i.e. after sitting for 6-8hrs, pop your hood, open your radiator and check to see if you're low on coolant. If you are, check your ATF fluid for possible antifreeze contamination - this is rare to happen, BUT, I have heard of it happening on 5+yr old radiators where the transmission cooler is located in the bottom of the radiator, and corrosion has eaten away internally.

This causes antifreeze to drop into your transmission, REALLY BAD, but can also cause it to spit out ATF for no other apparent reason.

The only other thing I can suggest for spilling out ATF is to check your transmission cooler line hoses, and if the tranny was *overfilled* (rare on this design) it will spill out ATF as well.

On the passenger of the truck on the trans there is a little circle about two inches around there is a diapharm inside of there if there is any fluid in that area (passenger side front end) it has ruptured. My truck was in the shop three times for the transmission. 904-777-4560