blower motor not working(replaced everything)

:banghead: 97 ford taurus gl - manual a/c controls
-replaced blower motor, relay, speed switch, main a/c switch, resitor. :uhoh: :banghead:
-checked fuses.
- i can jumper at the relay in the engine compartment and the fan runs.
I am now at my wits end!!!!!
I have freinds that tell me to check the ground(s).
I have no idea how, or where to check these things out!
Is it a seperated wire?
Is it my own bad karma coming back to haunt me?
Signed . . . . . . . . .lost, so lost, completely lost, lost!
:puke: :confused:

Have you checked for voltage to the blower motor relay when the controls are set to a few different positions? When you say you jumpered the relay, do you mean you jumpered the switched side, or the relay coil side to trigger the relay?

Did you check the 5-amp fuse for the blower motor relay in the instrument panel fuse panel? It should have power when the key is in Run.

If you'd like a copy of the wiring diagram for the manual HVAC controls, send me a private message with the request and an e-mail address for you that can accept PDF attachments.

-Rod

I have not checked the relay for voltage in different positions.
I used a wire and connected slots 87 and 30 directly, which turned the blower fan on. I then could control the tempurature, fan speed etc. I could not however turn it off - even in the off position - even with the key off, once I pulled the wire out it stopped. I needed the fan to get to work.
The relay slots (in the power dist. box) 87 and 30 are "hot" 85 and 86 are not "hot" in any position with the key on or the switches etc.

Well, it sounds like you are well on your way to finding the problem. Jumping relay slots 87 and 30 are bypassing the relay. It makes total sense that the blower would not stop running with that wire installed.

Terminal 85 should have continuity to ground when the HVAC control is set to anything except "Off." Terminal 86 should have a constant supply of battery voltage when the ignition switch is in "Run" via the appropriate 5-amp fuse in the instrument panel fuse panel.

If you verify that the 5-amp fuse is good and there is power through the fuse with the key in "Run," then you need to check for voltage at terminal 86 with your meter/test light grounded to the car chassis. If there is power to terminal 86, then move your meter/test light ground to terminal 85 and check for voltage. If there is no voltage now, you have a grounding issue for the relay. If there is voltage in both cases, then you probably have a bad relay (open coil).

If your scenario is different than the options above, feel free to update this thread with your findings.

-Rod

I took it to a local electrical repair guy.
He said it was an ignition - fuse box issue of some sort and that he could either find the specific problem (unknown cost) or $90.00 Cdn to bypass the problem. I opted for the $90.00 Cdn. If I ever find out the specific problem I will repost. Sorry for the lack of specific resolution.
......Alana