8.1 Owners - Stalling Problems

Almost every morning while driving to work, my truck stalls. Sometimes it will restart, other times I have to pull over (via coasting) and re-start. And its a hard re-start. It happens only once during the commute. And usally happens again, once, on my way home.

On the gm-trucks forum, the concenus seems to be that crank pos sensor is going bad.

This is about $ 100 part. Really can't afford to bing to the dealer at this time.

Wondering if anyone might be able to shed some experience on this.

Thanks in advance.

Does it stall while driving at normal speeds or when you are coming to a stop?

The old Bull dog could be giving problems.
Any codes or check engine lights?
What mileage?
Fuel filters and fuel pressure?
MT

The old Bull dog could be giving problems.
Any codes or check engine lights?
What mileage?
Fuel filters and fuel pressure?
MT

Didn't stall this morning coming in, we shall see about going home.

Stalls while normal driving and once or twice, stalled at stop light. About 95000 mi - ses came on once or twice, then went off. Advanced Auto's scanner won't read unless light is on.

Havn't checked the fp or regulator yet, one of my next moves. The truck starts right up a runs fine, except for this stalling. I know one day, she may not start up again.

Mileage seems to have dropped a bit.

Fuel filter is good

No stall on the way home tonight.

I have to narrow it down to either fuel or elec

Stalled this morning, driving about 45 mph, stalled and re-started itself while coasting.

I have repalced many crank position sensors for this concern. I would go with the others and try the crank position sensor. It has been redesigned, but it is a hard job to do. It usually breaks while removing. Just make sure you use tons of penetrating spray and alot of patience when doing it. The 8.1 generates alot of heat, the engineers really did a poor job of placing this piece where it is. If you don't know, it is on the top of the back of the block behind the left (driver side) cylinder head. It has a 10mm bolt that holds it in, and it has to come up to come out. The service manual states to take the last ignition coil off on the driver side to replace it, but I've found it easier to work from underneath and fight it out and fight in the new one. I usually replace the bolt holding in the sensor with a much shorter one (you will see why). Hope this helps.

I have repalced many crank position sensors for this concern. I would go with the others and try the crank position sensor. It has been redesigned, but it is a hard job to do. It usually breaks while removing. Just make sure you use tons of penetrating spray and alot of patience when doing it. The 8.1 generates alot of heat, the engineers really did a poor job of placing this piece where it is. If you don't know, it is on the top of the back of the block behind the left (driver side) cylinder head. It has a 10mm bolt that holds it in, and it has to come up to come out. The service manual states to take the last ignition coil off on the driver side to replace it, but I've found it easier to work from underneath and fight it out and fight in the new one. I usually replace the bolt holding in the sensor with a much shorter one (you will see why). Hope this helps.


Thanks for the reply - Yeah, thats what I'm learning a PIA to replace.

Should I get the sensor from the dealership or can I go to a parts store.

The ckp from the dealer is $100 - any idea what he would charge to install?? What happens if it breaks on the way out?

Also, the manual calls for a re-learn procedure - with a scanner?? Can I do it without the scanner?
Again, thanks for any help.

It might be wise to check for codes first and see if anything shows up.
If any coes post back code no.
MT

I agree with MT, there might be codes. The last several ones I had did not have anything but the symptoms you were describing.

I would suggest purchasing the OE part, just because it has been redesigned, and since it is sooo much fun to replace, I would trust an origional before an aftermarket one. As far as the scanner goes, it is a "special function" procedure, and I believe it can only be done on a GM scan tool.

All of the sensors I have replaced have broken, but what happens is they come apart, but not separated into 2 or more pieces. I usually use a long pry bay/long screwdriver to wiggle all the way out. As I stated earlier, use alot of patience when doing this. If you get frustrated, walk away and come back after you cool down. It will be much better to have several cool down periods than a broken sensor in the block. Hope this helps