*Inexpressable Joy!*

Guiddy, Primera Man, SS2K, (alphabetical order)

Guess what? I went to my local toy and hobby to look for car models. I was thinking that I'd have to settle for some non-Japanese kit or maybe a Tamiya of a model that wasn't what I wanted (Tamiya doesn't make a rally lancer evo) :( In any case, I was looking and behold! A Hasegawa Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI GSR Rally Edition (whew). It was imported from Japan and only cost 1 cent more than at Hobby Link Japan (Thanks SS2K!). It was imported back in October of 1999!! I didn't have the money at the time, but got them to hold it for me til monday. I'm sooo excited. To think, I'll not so soon (i'm an amateur remember) have a completed Lancer! Well, I'll probably need you guys help along the way. Guiddy's post on the Subaru WRX looks to be very helpful. Whaddya think I'll have to shell out for paints (I have none)? :)

P.S. You're probably saying to yourselves, "Oh joy :rolleyes: Another newbie to explain stuff too." I wil try to keep my questions intelligent and quick...
In closing here's a pic...

Go back to the shop and ask to see the instructions.
In there it well tell you what paints you well need.
Looks like you well need a couple of spray cans(red/blue) and then some enamel paint pots like black/silver/red etc etc.
Get some really good paint brushes. A small one for detail work,a larger one for other bits and maybe a bigger one again to cover some of the bigger stuff you cant spray.

Dont forget the glue....lol

I looked at the instructions at the shop, but through the saran wrap stuff. When I go back on monday to get the kit, I'll get them to help me with the paint. I already have the glue (left over from my model airplane days.) I've never actually done painting work on a model (save a little on a Gundam model.) I think I'll do a little thing like Guiddy and post my progress so you guys can comment. Overall, do you do most of the painting before glueing? (does that have an e or not?). In any case, after I'm done with this kit, whomever helps me gets a free drawing! :D Maybe that'll help (not that you guys aren't nice enough w/o incentive)!

Originally posted by Twist
...(Tamiya doesn't make a rally lancer evo) :( ...
I can't figure out why you keep saying that. I know I've seen them.

Evo V (http://www.hlj.com/cgi-local/hljpage.cgi?TAM24203)
Evo VI (http://www.hlj.com/cgi-local/hljpage.cgi?TAM24220)

And if you don't like those particular paint schemes, do a search for decals by Studio 27, and there will be a set for almost every Lancer ever... :flash:

I just meant the one I like. I mean no disrespect to Tamiya. :D When I was at Hobby Link Japan, I didn't have much time. The Hasegawa version I did find was the one I like the most. I didn't see any Tamiya's right off (that and it took me a while to find out that the rally cars are in the race section) :D In any case... I have done some looking around and I definitely like the one I found. Especially how you can have real cloth seat belts (but at the cost of a turnable wheels) :( But now I have a Lancer :cool:

Originally posted by Twist
Overall, do you do most of the painting before glueing?

Do almost all of it before you start to glue.

Clean up most of the parts while they are still on the "trees" like molding lines etc. Then try and spray most of the parts that you can while they are still attached.

Or.....(an example being an engine)...if most of the engine parts are to be one colour...assemble most of it first then paint it all as one piece.

So from what I've read and know from previous experience I'll need this supplies, right?

1) Model Kit (duh!)
2) Glue (will plastic cement do or do i need superglue too?)
3) Hobby Knife
4) Brushes (fine, medium and broad)
5) Sand Paper (1200 and 800 grade?)
6) Paint (Spray and pot paint)

Any thing else? Do you think I could get most of this stuff for under $20 excluding model?

Check out the glue article I linked to in here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t6897.html). It helps.

Also, for the record, I have found Tamiya acrylic paint in spray cans and bottles the easiest stuff to work with. You can't beat water clean-up. I always junked things up so bad with enamels.

:)

OFF TOPIC!!!
AVATAR!!! WHOOO!!!!!
Sorry...
ON TOPIC!!!
How long does it take you on average to complete a kit?

Originally posted by Twist
How long does it take you on average to complete a kit?
My fastest: 3 weeks
My slowest: August 1999 - present... still working :(

I'm easily distracted. :rolleyes:

The best EVO would be built using the parts from both Hazegawa and Tamiya, as the belts and photoetch is superb in the Hazegawa kit, yet the body and ancillaires are better in Tamiya's kit.
Tamiya use better molds too, less flash. Overall, the Tamiya kit would be better for a first timer, but you could do much worse than the one you are getting!

AVOID glues in the tubes like the plague!

You want the Revell glue in a bottle for sticking unpainted parts together, a crystal clear water soluable glue for clear parts and basic assembly, and then a good super glue like Zap for strength on parts like suspension etc.
Sorry to sound expensive, but it is the only way to get the best results!

what would the price be for all the stuff you mentioned and the stuff I had on my list?

Looking at about £6 on glue.
£20 total!
You may want to add some needle files to you list too!
I have built up my stuff over years, but I must have something like £200 worth of paints, £100 of that in just cans of auto paint!
But I have been moddeling for 15 years!

Modeling is no place to cheap out - if you do, your model will show it despite your hard work.

Some other tools I use are a tiny pair of side cutters, to cut parts out of the trees. That way, it's easier to use the hobby knife and trim the parts. I had a few thumb cuts before I learned to do it this way though ;)!

I have started taking parts out of the trees before I paint though - such as engine parts. Since all I've done so far are RearWheelDrive (RWD) or RearEngine vehicles, I take all the engine parts (such as block, heads, intake, and sometimes tranny) and glue them together and paint them as one unit, so there are no lines as to where one part's paint started and stopped.

Most of all, ENJOY doing the work - it should never be a chore that has to be done. While looking at a completed model is nice, the real fun in modeling is the process. Don't work on a kit if you are tired or in a bad mood. It's too easy to screw something up that you'll kick yourself for later.

Good luck, and have fun!

Originally posted by Guiddy
The best EVO would be built using the parts from both Hazegawa and Tamiya, as the belts and photoetch is superb in the Hazegawa kit, yet the body and ancillaires are better in Tamiya's kit.


You can do this? I didn't think that competing companies would use interchangable parts. I realize of course that they have to be the same scale. In any case, I don't think I'll do the hybrid this time. I figure I'll have enough trouble with the one kit i've got. That and I've only got enough money for the necessities. The part I'm most confused about is painting. If you do the spraypaint and such when everything is still in tree form wouldn't the little parts where the parts are attached to the tree not have paint? What do you do there? Overall, I am definitely looking forward to having a Lancer Evo in my room! :D

Originally posted by Twist
If you do the spraypaint and such when everything is still in tree form wouldn't the little parts where the parts are attached to the tree not have paint? What do you do there?
You touch it up later with a brush.

Originally posted by Twist
You can do this? I didn't think that competing companies would use interchangable parts. I realize of course that they have to be the same scale.
Not exactly "interchangable." More like you can make them fit. ;)

Originally posted by Twist


The part I'm most confused about is painting. If you do the spraypaint and such when everything is still in tree form wouldn't the little parts where the parts are attached to the tree not have paint? What do you do there?

You cut it off so that the part is holding on by only 1-2 bits. Some parts have 3-4-5 pieces where they hold the part.
Then as Jay said, you touch it up with the brush.

I remove everything, file the seam marks off, primer everything, then split all the parts into separate colours, so black bits go one side, silver to another etc.
THen everything is spray painted at least one colour, if not masked off using Tamiya masking tape, and a few other colours added.
If I have time, I willl assemble a few stages as I am going along, but usually most of the kit is painted before I start building.

I couldn't recommend this to beginners though! You need to know your stuff as you lose the identity of each part, and it is easy to lose something if you are not careful.
The results are good though! Each part is perfect!

So masking is where you cover up one section. That way you can paint the whole thing blue and then remove the masking and that section is still the original color. Either you do that or you handpaint, I guess.

Guiddy, how do you pronounce your name? Goo id ee or Guid EE or what? :D

Originally posted by Twist
So masking is where you cover up one section. That way you can paint the whole thing blue and then remove the masking and that section is still the original color. Either you do that or you handpaint, I guess.


If you are meaning handpainting a body....please dont !!!. You will end up with brush marks and uneven looking paint....Always spray the body !!!

I was talking about in general or in places where masking would be too difficult. Yeah, I suppose handpainting would look rotten...

Originally posted by Twist
So masking is where you cover up one section. That way you can paint the whole thing blue and then remove the masking and that section is still the original color. Either you do that or you handpaint, I guess.

:D

Never mask to paint, always mask to spray!
Paint loves capilary action, and will run like crazy under masking tape.

I spray one colour on a part, then mask it and spray another.

Spraying is cool! Spray EVERYTHING!:D

Originally posted by Twist
Guiddy, how do you pronounce your name? Goo id ee or Guid EE or what? :D

Gwid-ee! As in 'ready'!

Originally posted by Guiddy
Gwid-ee! As in 'ready'! Um... That didn't help me at all. You Brits pronounce everything different anyways. I though it was pronounced like "giddy" as in "giddy as a school girl." No offense intended, Guiddy! :D

Originally posted by Silver S2000
Um... That didn't help me at all. You Brits pronounce everything different anyways. I though it was pronounced like "giddy" as in "giddy as a school girl." No offense intended, Guiddy! :D

OK, say it as Giddy, but with a W in it, so Gwiddy!

Does that help?

Originally posted by Guiddy


OK, say it as Giddy, but with a W in it, so Gwiddy!

Does that help?

You "English" speaking people :D :D :D ....As long as you dont sound like Prince Charles :finger: :finger: :finger: ...lol

Well, I got the kit and I have to say I'm pleased. I splurged and bought $35 worth of paints. :rolleyes: The kit is extremely detailed and has very, very little flash. I've decided to handpaint the thing (*ducks* Please don't scream at me. I know that this can lead to disaster, but I am an artist and experienced with brushes.) It's way too complicated to mask. There are lots of extraneous parts. There is an alternate backend/mirrors/dash/steering wheel, and lots of little bits that I don't know what they do. I prolly won't be able to start for another week (homework and then church retreat). I'll be getting new glue and exacto's later this week. One thing is evident, tho. This kit will take a long time, but will look excellent IF I can pull it off. The guys at the model shop were great and you guys have been too. Enough for now. (Now you guys have a week's respite from my questions.) :D

Just PLEASE spray the body! That is all we ask!:D

I don't know how I can. There are so many colors and sections. Look at the photo I supplied. Maybe this wasn't the best project for a newbie. :mad: Oh well, I'll have to see. I've still got a week to decide. :D

In the photo it looks like you have to spray the car in red(bumpers/back) and then mask it to paint a blue afterwards.

If the kit is molded in white, the red is quite hard to cover....do that colour first, as the blue is a better colour for covering over the white and red.
Just try spraying on something else first to get the hang of it.
Remember .....just nice light coats.
The end results will be worth it.

Originally posted by Twist
I don't know how I can. There are so many colors and sections. Look at the photo I supplied. Maybe this wasn't the best project for a newbie. :mad: Oh well, I'll have to see. I've still got a week to decide. :D

OK, maybe I am being too subtle here!

You WILL spray the body, as anything else will look crap!

I have never hand painted the body on a model car, the thought is just murder!
Get some Tamiya masking tape, and like Warren said, spray it all red.
Then mask off the red sections, and add just 2 coats of black (I think this car is Red & Black Warren!)
Remove the tape as soon as it is touch dry, and then leave for a few days. Polish the dividing line down a bit with cutting compound, then add the decals, which should have the red stripey section included yes?

Trust me, it is easier than brush painting when you know how, and there is only one way you will learn!

We are here to guide you through it!:D

You will regret any other route!

After a few days and this terrorist thing cools down, I'll scan in the decals, instructions(not the whole thing, just enough to look at the paints and body) and box. That way you guys can look at it and tell me what to mask. This stuff is just plain crazy...

Aye, but you wanted a Lancer... :devil: Seriously, trust us. Would we tell you wrong? You'll just go nice and slow.... :D

I know you guys won't steer me wrong. I'll scan that stuff in so you can help me figure out where and how to mask. But somehow, all of this seems inconsequential in light of yesterday's events... :(

Originally posted by Twist
I know you guys won't steer me wrong. I'll scan that stuff in so you can help me figure out where and how to mask. But somehow, all of this seems inconsequential in light of yesterday's events... :(

It is the reason I am staying in and modelling at the moment, in a kind of solemn mood!
It is times like this when you really look at your life, and weigh things up!
I don't feel like going out much, just being home with those close to me and talking it all through!

But life goes on I guess!

We are not hit as hard here in Britain, but I keep the news on all the time, watching events unfold.

My sincerest condolences to all you guys in the States.

ACK!!! The A-pillar is cracked. Split straight through! I just noticed! What do I do? Super-glue? Plastic Cement? ::tears:: NOOOOO!!!!!! I'll see if i can come up with a photo later... :(:(:(:(:(:(:(:(:(:(

That happened to my NSX, too. It's easy to fix with plastic cement, just be gentle. The super-thin kind works best. Gently separate the parts by twisting (no pun intended :) ) the body, and smear some glue on the broken surface. Let it dry for about a day, then sand off the extra glue. After painting, it'll look fine. See? No big deal. :D

*whew* thanks for the swift reply...

Just want to emphasize... ;) Originally posted by Silver S2000
...just be gentle...Gently separate ... :D

I'm a newbie building a lancer too!what a small world,well forum acctually...:)

I'm to damn worried about staring the kit,before staring a kit,I take 1 day and NEARLY memorize the instructions,it makes me feel like I know what I'm doing

Painting?I got it a little easier than you,it's a basic 2-tone paint job,but one question to the pros:

In one of the earlier posts,someone said that when you do a two tone paint job,(with all the needed parts masked off)when you paint the car,you should remove the masking tape before the paint fully dries because it will leave a jagged edge,but someone here just mentioned that you should take off the masking tape as soon as the paint is dry,which one is it?:confused: :confused: :confused:

Not completely dry though, I believe the statement was 'dry to the touch' which is what you want to do. You don't want the paint to be completely dry before you remove the tape as this is what will cause the jagged edge effect.