95 toyota problems please help, engine hard 2 start and hesitates

Hey, i have a 95 toyota corolla dx about 150k miles on it, recent timing, head, and some small electronics on engine compartment changed..about 8 months ago car had an electrical problem, no parking lights turned on, when parking light switch was turned on, relay came onn but no parking lights, well bypassed that and then the other problem is till now, engine hard to start takes about 4 minutes till it eventually kills battery, when it does start it will hesitates, and dies when you press the accelerator slightly hard, also looks to me that the C.C is getting too much fuel, changed the head gasket thinking it would be that, but no problem yet found, changed TPS sensor, dist.., air sensor, cleaned the throttle body, i did find some oil in the top of the intake where the throttle body mounts to.. might be the pcv valve not sure, checked all relays, wires, ect...does anyone have this same problem..let me know its been over 4 months and cant use car...local shop charges me 90 dollars per hour, min 4 hours..cant afford that right now..please help

you didn't mention anything about the coil there bud
sounds to me like you are not getting any fire
i'd remove the coil and test it .....if you cannot find out how...i'd try the library or something.
what engine model is it...if it's a 4AFE it's probably the same setup as my 92 corolla.
i could scan the page from my manual and email it to you..
let me know if you need further help.

ASTRO

Hey I don't know all that much about cars but you should read my post on "hard to start when cold" and compare symptoms. My corolla is a 95 and had about the same amount of miles as well. Good Luck!

Yea, that would be nice, i kind of givin up on it but i cant, since i need the car, gas prices are way too high, now i think i allready replaced the coil too, i also replaced the crank shaft sensor, and nothing still does the same thing, could it be some type of gas and air mixture sensor..

Do you get any "Check Engine" indication?

You could also have a "simple" electrical issue, like a bad injector harness -- you can check that by getting the car started -- carefully disconnect the electrical connectors on each injector one-at-a-time -- the engine idle speed should at least change or the engine will die when the wire harness connector you removed is working -- if nothing happens, you've found the culprit -- many times just reconnecting the injector connector will fix the connection -- but inspect it as well -- it should be clean as a baby's ... inside -- use some WD to clean it up and reattaach, and retest. Injectors don't really die often, but they don't live forever either.

A loose manifold vacuum hose will also cause the same symptoms (the MAP sensor will not get an acurate reading of airflow), as will a stuck EGR (poisoning the intake charge with exhaust gases) -- they are related because EGR function uses a vacuum signal. The PCM tends to think that at WOT (or high engine load) vacuum should be near zero, so this could cause an overrich compensation by the computer when "seen" at idle RPM.

Good tips, will try that, i did notice that there is a kind of valve switch that opens at certain temperature which activates when it gets hot and opens some kind of a vacume and comes inn from the purge tank to the T.B.. which was broken, i repaired that but no fix..also there is a metal line that looks to be of air or i would say vacume under the manifold which is broken, i will try to repair those..also i did notice that when i unplug the pcv valve the rpms go higher and the engine accelerates a little better, i will try what you suggested and i will get back to you..thanks

Oh, yea no check engine light, only turned onn last time i removed the crank sensor, but it is out again...i think it will be some type of an electrical issue becuase a while back when it started doing that, some one broke into the car and stole my stereo and other stuff and i guess somehow when they cut the radio, they might of damaged the wiring...i will try to inspect everything again to make sure it is ok..

Hey, just did what you suggested, one of the vacume hoses was broken, replaced it but still problem, also i got the car to start and i unplugged the injectors one by one, when i unplugged each and everyone the engine idled lower, and when i put it back in, it went back to normal...still cant find the problem, im guessing there is not much air going inside the intake to ignite, which is causing the engine to be rick, but i still cant find what regulates the flow of air and gas, also could a bad o2 sensor be the problem or perhaps a plugged catalyc converter..