How to acheive the Show car paint job.

How can this be done? What paints to use, and steps..

Mine always come out terrible...:(

You can follow the steps I used on the Subaru WRX for a solid paint job, probably a good place to start!
It isn't too important how the paint goes on, the result is in how much time is spent finishing it!
This is the result I got...

Some more paint jobs I am happy with...

The Skyline was sprayed using BMW Athemist Purple, and is a Mica basecoat followed with an acrylic laquer.
It is important to use plastic primer when spraying these kits, otherwise the paint cracks!:(
Just buy the primers they sell for spraying bumpers on cars.

Another Mica basecoat, this time Subaru 555 Sonic Blue Mica for the WRC car of McRae.
Basecoat apllied through an airbruch, followed with universal Laquer.
It is possible to get these paints mixed in a spray can for you.

Originally posted by Prelude2War
How can this be done? What paints to use, and steps..

Mine always come out terrible...:(
Usually a lot of careful sanding and polishing. It's not hard, but it does take a bit of practice. I screw it up often. :D

P.S. Take more pictures outside, Guiddy! The R33 looks great! :)

:eek: wow they look fantastic!!! Where do you get the colors from?

Originally posted by Silver S2000


P.S. Take more pictures outside, Guiddy! The R33 looks great! :)

I agree with you on that....they look awesome.

When painting....start away from the model and do a nice light coat and spray past the end of the model.
The very last coat should be a little bit "heavy" and then left to dry for a week or two before polishing etc.
I always use a rubbing compound first then the polish....works really well.

Im more into military models, (starting to get into cars) but this applies to all models: the glue i use is in the tube, and can get quite messy quite quickly!! like oozing out of cracks and then glue strings...what other kind of glue ...er cement in model terns :) is there? something that isnt so gooey and messy?

Im still an amatuer (even though i have an aztek A370 airbrush.that thing is the shit) and i just want to know how to get better.

Oh yeah, and when it comes to decals: I just built an F-15 to give to my ex as an apology and sho she wont dump me (it failed...but that's another story) The painjob i had on it, on a scale of 1-10 IMO was aobut a 6. Problem is, the decals ripped like there was no tomorrow!! there was nothing i could do!! not even GOD could have slid them off that paper without tearing them into a million gooey pieces!! What was i doing wrong? I was forces to use the scarce F-16 decals that i had left, and they seemed to work OK. Was it just the decals?

Also: Is using Krylon clearcoat (satin, for my military models) good to use on the models? it seemed to work fine...i dunno if itll have adverse effects later on in the models life

phew

next: the decal setter stuff..it says it's supposed to make the decals wrinkly. Problem is that the decals never seemed to get UNwrinkly! ack! what to do!?

Finally (or so you hope :devil: ) uh..i forgot...oh yeah, masking. Right now im using this weird stuff called "parrafin M" or something. Its a film, you cut it, stretch it to aobut 5 times its legth, and it has a tacky (very light) wax on one side to mask with. problem is that stuff can be a bitch to work with. Anybody have an advice on what to use to mask? it's also hard to get that stuff exactly where you want it.

ok, ill give you a break right now. It would just be cool if there could be a big Modelers convention so you guys can show me this IRL.

anyhoo, thanks for any advice you can give!

WOW....I might have to charge you for all these answers....lol

1 GLUE. ....Always use it from a bottle and use a toothpick to apply it. When it gets to old looking etc just change to a new one. Thats what i have found to be the best.Or the tubes with the long then nose on them like Revell glue.

2 Decals.......Did you soak them in warm water(not hot)...and for long enough??
You should soak them just long enough so they are easy enough to slide off the paper. Or maybe the water you used was to hot which well melt them or it was to cold and ripped them.

3 On nearly all decals i use "microset" which softens the decal so it can "hug" around parts etc. You apply the MS to the model, lay the decal over it and apply more MS to it and then let soak for a minute or two. Then use a soft brush to start brushing the air/wrinkles out. If they still look wrinkly....use a hair dryer on warm to help out.

4 Masking....only use Taymia masking...the stuff is the best by far.

Originally posted by Prelude2War
:eek: wow they look fantastic!!! Where do you get the colors from?

I use a local paint manufacturere, called Sayers Motor Factors. They deal with paint from Lesonal. It is usually a basecoat, so it looks matt when you spray it. You then add the laquer and polish!