Power window

I have a power window problem that I can't seem to solve. The driver's side window wasn't going down only after the car was started. Sometimes it would work right after starting the car, other times it took up to 20 mins for it to work. It would continue to work perfectly until the car was shut off and left overnight. I tested for power at the motor and it was fine. Therefore, I changed the motor. SAME PROBLEM. Then I checked all the wiring and connectors from the door into the car. All seems OK. The window is not binding because I checked that when I changed the motor. Any Ideas would be appreciated.
Jonathan

Sounds like the accessory delay is causing some sort of problem here. Do any other windows work?

Every other window works fine. I thought it might be the accessory relay as well, but I thought it would affect all the windows at the same time? Maybe not.
Jonathan

What year is your Taurus, and is it a sedan or wagon?

-Rod

It is a 2003 SEL Sedan.
Jonathan

I agree with you that the accessory delay relay should have the same effect on all windows. I wonder if you might have a problem with the One Touch Down (OTD) relay or circuit. It appears that there are some resistors in that circuit that may have gone high in resistance and may be limiting the current to the motor. I'm nto sure how the OTD is activated in teh 2003, whether it is by holding the button down for x seconds, or pressing it twice, or pressing it down a bit further, etc. Maybe you can attempt to not use the OTD feature and see if that makes a difference.

-Rod

The OTD is activated by pushing further down on the switch. I have taken apart the switch and isolated the OTD, but the window still acted up. It must be a relay (or something similar) that is not activating right after the ignition is on. And one that only affects the driver's window. I wonder if the Accessory delay seperates power for the driver's window?
Jonathan

Nope, the accessory delay relay provides the power to the master window switch as well as the individual door switches. It also powers the switch illumination.

Looking over the diagrams again quickly, it certainly looks like the OTD relay would be the likely suspect though. "Regular" window power when the OTD is not active is still provided through a normally closed (NC) circuit of the OTD relay. Maybe the NC contact is intermittant. It looks like it would either have to be the OTD relay or the Generic Electronic Module (GEM). The relay would certainly be less expensive to start with then the GEM.

-Rod

go to a junk yard and get a replacement switch console for
the door.....its cheap , easy to change and the likely problem.
I had simular problem with 2000 model, the junkyard part is
working great.......I think the new part in autozone is only about $50

I am having a similar problem with my 97 Sable wagon. Both rear windows quit working from the driver's switch and rear door switches. I removed the door panel and started checking circuits. I was measuring 10-11V at the motor. After charging the battery and starting the engine the two back windows started working again. Then yesterday the right rear window stopped working again. I tried it with the key on and nothing, started the engine and it worked! It's a weird mystery.

Nope, the accessory delay relay provides the power to the master window switch as well as the individual door switches. It also powers the switch illumination.

Looking over the diagrams again quickly, it certainly looks like the OTD relay would be the likely suspect though. "Regular" window power when the OTD is not active is still provided through a normally closed (NC) circuit of the OTD relay. Maybe the NC contact is intermittant. It looks like it would either have to be the OTD relay or the Generic Electronic Module (GEM). The relay would certainly be less expensive to start with then the GEM.

-Rod

I purchased an OTD, it is the same part# as the delay relay and two other relays in the fuse block. Anyway, I replaced the OTD and the window has been working fine for the last six days. Either it is behaving itself or the problem is finally fixed. Thanks for the help.
Jonathan

I am having a similar problem with my 97 Sable wagon. Both rear windows quit working from the driver's switch and rear door switches. I removed the door panel and started checking circuits. I was measuring 10-11V at the motor. After charging the battery and starting the engine the two back windows started working again. Then yesterday the right rear window stopped working again. I tried it with the key on and nothing, started the engine and it worked! It's a weird mystery.

Did you compare the voltage at the motor against the voltage at the battery? Doesn't really sound like a mystery, sounds like you either have a battery that's about to leave you stranded (and probably take the alternator out with it) or a high resistance path somewhere (ground maybe).

If the battery voltage with the engine off measures 10-11 V, replace the battery. The window regulators may have dry grease in them now, increasing the load on the motor enough to trip the circuit breaker with the low voltage condition.

If the battery voltage is more in the 12.3 V range, then the problem is probably a resistive path somewhere (switch, loose fuse, ground, dirty connection).

-Rod

Nope, the accessory delay relay provides the power to the master window switch as well as the individual door switches. It also powers the switch illumination.

Looking over the diagrams again quickly, it certainly looks like the OTD relay would be the likely suspect though. "Regular" window power when the OTD is not active is still provided through a normally closed (NC) circuit of the OTD relay. Maybe the NC contact is intermittant. It looks like it would either have to be the OTD relay or the Generic Electronic Module (GEM). The relay would certainly be less expensive to start with then the GEM.

-Rod

I spoke too soon. It worked for one week and now it's acting up again. This is what it did before, worked for a while and then didn't. I don't think that it is the switch because it only occurs after start-up and at no other time. Does anybody have any more suggestions? They would be appreciated. Thanks
Jonathan

How regularly did it act up before? If the issues seemed to change with the new OTD relay, I'd still concentrate in that area. Make sure the contacts are clean and fitting securely. Check the voltage levels at the terminals to make sure you are getting a good ground, strong coil trigger, battery voltage where there should be battery voltage, etc.

-Rod

How regularly did it act up before? If the issues seemed to change with the new OTD relay, I'd still concentrate in that area. Make sure the contacts are clean and fitting securely. Check the voltage levels at the terminals to make sure you are getting a good ground, strong coil trigger, battery voltage where there should be battery voltage, etc.

-Rod

Sometimes it would work well for a few days and then act up again so the new OTD may not have helped the issue. I Just checked for good ground, proper voltage, etc and everything seems fine.
Jonathan

Does there seem to be any correlation to outside temperature or humidity?

-Rod

Does there seem to be any correlation to outside temperature or humidity?

-Rod

No, none at all. It will act up in either hot, cold, dry or wet weather.
Jonathan

Does there seem to be any correlation to outside temperature or humidity?

-Rod

My 97 sable wagon front passenger window is acting up and there does seem to be a correlation with temp and humidity. when it was cold and the RH was high it would work, now that it has warmed up and a little drier it has stopped working again.

Although it did not work all last winter but this winter has been nastier this season and lots of potholes, I hit one and thought I may have done some damage to the front wheel (no damage thankfully) but for some reason the stupid window would start working but now has stopped again. Neither the driver door swich or the passenger door switch will make the window work so i'm fairly certain that it is not a faulty swich.

I removed the door panel and tested with a multimeter and got +12.5v and -12.5v at the motor connector when using both swiches so I'm wondering if there is another ground or maybe the window hardware is jamming!



Thanks for any info you may have!

How did you get +12.5V and -12.5V at the motor connector? What were you using for ground reference, or are you saying that with the switch held in one position, the meter read +12.5V. When you pressed the switch the other direction, the meter reading was -12.5V? Was that measurement made with the power window motor unplugged? If so, there could be a bad connection somewhere but your high impedance meter was not loading the circuit, therefore the voltage reading was reasonable. What was the battery voltage at that time?

If the readings were taken with the motor disconnected, try plugging the motor back in and backprobing the connector. What voltage readings do you get now? Is the wiring getting warm?

Does your meter have a current test setting good for 20A? If so, try measuring the current to the motor. If the current draw is high, you have a motor issue or hardware binding up.

-Rod

How did you get +12.5V and -12.5V at the motor connector? What were you using for ground reference, or are you saying that with the switch held in one position, the meter read +12.5V. When you pressed the switch the other direction, the meter reading was -12.5V? Was that measurement made with the power window motor unplugged? If so, there could be a bad connection somewhere but your high impedance meter was not loading the circuit, therefore the voltage reading was reasonable. What was the battery voltage at that time?

If the readings were taken with the motor disconnected, try plugging the motor back in and backprobing the connector. What voltage readings do you get now? Is the wiring getting warm?

Does your meter have a current test setting good for 20A? If so, try measuring the current to the motor. If the current draw is high, you have a motor issue or hardware binding up.

-Rod

Here is a post in the mercury sable forum that I posted a week ago or so:
My 97 sable wagon seems to have an intermittent problem with the power window on the front passanger door. Sometimes works and then not!

Just wondering if anyone else has come across this prob, Not sure if it is a bad ground wire or if the window is jamming in the full up position. The interior lights dimm slightly when trying to roll the window down (when it is not working).

Does anyone know of a fix for this or is this a dealer only fix thing?

Thanks


Yes I checked the voltage with the motor unplugged and I didn't check the battery voltage, I assumed that since the battery is new it should be fine. The engine was off at the time of test. The voltage reading was with the switch activated, in the neutral position the voltage reading was 0v

My meter does have a setting for amperage however I didn't check that! (my bad) I'll check that next time and if the current is high that should narrow the problem down to a motor or hardware issue.

Thankyou very much for your input, it has been helpfull!

The hint that the interior light dims when you try to roll the window down but it doesn't is a good hint that there is a significant current draw. Sounds like the window hardware is binding or the motor is weak and needs to be replaced. You may want to consider cleaning the old grease off the hardware and replace. I guess I'd suggest white lithium grease, but others may have better suggestions.

You could also remove the motor from the regulator assembly and operate the window manually to see if it seems to be binding.

-Rod

Im having problems with my passenger side window on my 97 mercury sable. the window switch on the passenger side and the driver side isnt working. all other windows work fine, as does the driver switch to them.It was working fine, then just stopped. What is causing it not to work?

Welcome to the forum!

So, to summarize, the passenger side power window does not roll up or down. The switch on the passenger door as well as the switch on the driver's door will not cause the window to work. Is that accurate?

If so, I'd suspect the problem is the passenger side power window motor or the wiring to it. Do you hear anything click or attempt to run when you press either button for the passenger side window? Do you have a test light or multimeter that you could use to check for voltage to the window motor? Are you comfortable removing the door panel to access the power window motor?

We'll at least need to know if there is voltage to the power window motor to really help you narrow down the issue much.

-Rod

I know I have a similar problem, but most of the time my driver-side window is just plain DOA. Occasionally it will work--for a second! :eek: I've traced the problem to the brushes in the motor keeps popping out of place (which could be the case with you, even with the new motor). I reseat the brushes in the motor (agravating, even for the mechanically enclined, there's a trick to it!), and it works for all of a week or so. ...then the same thing. I need to go in there again and correct the problem once more.

No, none at all. It will act up in either hot, cold, dry or wet weather.

Jonathan this appears to be an intermittent problem, so it will be hard to trace down. You'll need to compare the drivers window with all the others to see what is different about that particular circuit. As far as I know it's just the one touch, but from what I've read here that has been ruled out (or your new switch is now bad too). I will look at the Ford service manual and see if I can find anything that might cause this. If I can find a way I'll send you a copy of it too :wink:

The GEM controls the OTD so my guess is that you might have a bad ground somewhere (provided the GEM is good). I'll send you the link to the wiring diagram in a few minutes, just as soon as I'm able to upload it to the server :)

Is it just the passenger window or do they all do it?