'89 S-15 Jimmy, Torsion bar mount replacement

'89 S-15 Jimmy, Torsion bar mount replacement:

The right mount has had the rubber come loose from the metal of the bottom piece of the mount. I thought it would be pretty easy to just unbolt the old one and bolt on a new one. The 2 bolts through the frame were rusted in pretty good, but they came out alright. I finally got the top nut broke loose. Now the top portion of the old mount with the rubber piece attached won't come out of between the cross member and the frame. The torsion bar hits the edge of the round hole where it goes through the frame member. Even if I get this old piece out, there is no way a new, complete one is going to go in there. Now what?

Do I have to take the torsion bar adjusting bolts out? Both sides? Then what? Take the other side of the torsion bar mount loose? Do the torsion bars fall out then?

I found this 'walk-through': http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/viewarticle.php?article_name=torsion_bar_mounts.ph p&dir=suspension
It seems to skip something between Step #3 where it says to take the bolt out and Step #4 where it says to take the top nut off of the crossmember. Maybe that is for a different year when it is easier to get the mount out.

DO NOT move the torsion bar adjusters. Raise the crossmember with a bottle jack. Remove the old mount and install the new one. Should take about 20 minutes a side.

Raise the crossmember with a bottle jack, or even a pry bar, it doesn't take much. Remove the old mount and install the new one.
I tried that. The ?1" round torsion bar hits the top of the ?2" round hole of the frame that is directly in front of the crossmember. It won't go any higher. I can't get enough space between the crossmember and the frame under the mount. It seems like I am going to have to take something else loose.??

Was it a 1989, 2 door, 4x4 that you work on?

All first generation GM T bodies, (4WD) use the same configuration for the mounts. GM S body, (2WD) uses coil springs in front.

Skip step #3 and step #7 of this link, it is totally unnecessary and will not gain you any room. The bottle jack is stronger than the torsion bar and the crossmember will bottom out on the floor pan. The rest is great information.

http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/viewarticle.php?article_name=torsion_bar_mounts.ph p&dir=suspension

I did finally get the old 'top' leftover piece of the old mount out. It was still a squeek getting it to come out. I got a new mount from AdvancedAutoParts:
http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=TRW&MfrPartNumber=14279&PartType=2054&PTSet=A . I tried and tried, but couldn't even get close to getting the new, whole bushing between the torsion bar mount and the frame. I jacked up the whole side of the Jimbly pushing on the torsion bar mount and the torsion bar is still hitting the inside of the hole where it goes through the frame crossbar. Still no joy. :banghead: Am I supposed to be TRYING to bend something? It really isn't doing anything...

I finally took that one back. I ordered one of the 'other' kind that have a BOLT that goes in from the top instead of having the Stud built into the bushing.
http://www.rockauto.com MOOG Part # K6485 {Torsion Bar Bushing}
http://info.rockauto.com/Moog/K6485_TOP.jpg

I haven't gotten crawled back under there to get it put in yet, but this looks a lot more promising.

The torsion bar is loaded and you'll never overcome the tension just by pushing on the crossmember. Jack the vehicle up and place a jack stand under the frame to support it, directly behind the front wheel is a good place. Then use the jack to raise the torsion bar crossmember as far as it will go before hitting the floor. There should be plenty of room to install the mount.

Hi ttiiggy,

I had the same problem you have. I have a 92 Jimmy. The drivers side was no problem because that hole in the frame cross member that the torsion bar passes through is more like a oval on a angle. But the passenger side has that 2" hole. When the cross member is jacked up for clearance to remove/install the mount, the torsion bar tops out in that hole. Like you said, there is not enough room to install the new mount. The only way to gain clearance wound be to:
Remove the torsion bar and/or torsion key
Get the mount with the removable stud
Or do what i did. I cut the stud two threads below the tapered point with a hack saw. This gave me just enough room to install the mount with an acceptable amount of stud exposure after the washer and nut were secured.

I hope this helps, and if you were like me in that you just need an extra 5/16" room, i believe it should.

Good luck

Get the mount with the removable stud
Been there did that. :smokin:

Thank you. It is good to know that I am not missing something, or at least not the only one. :grinyes:

I did get crawled back under there to put it in. Whew. Finally done with that part.