94 bravada stalls after warm no code

After the engine is warm it stalls as soon as you take foot off gas and wont start for 10 minutes.Its not throwing code.

Have you checked the fuel pressure? Fuel pressure is not monitored by the OBDI system and therefore can not set a code if there is a malfunction. If you need specs and procedures, post back and ask.

Check for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold. It is likely that a vacuum leak would set a code though.

I put a new fuel pump in and it ran fine for 2 test drives.Then roomate tried to take to work and it started again.I changed fuel filter again and no fuel past filter.Made it home and still stalling.

Install fuel pressure gauge to the test port near the distributor. Turn the key to the RUN position, (do not start the engine). While the fuel pump is running, fuel pressure must be 60-66psi. After approximately 2 to 3 seconds, the fuel pump will shut off. Fuel pressure must remain between 55-60psi for several minutes. A drop in pressure below 55psi indicates a leak.

Here's where you check the fuel pressure. Test kits are available at most chain type auto parts stores.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p288/Clunk_/Image033.jpg

So whats my next step if fuel pressure is low?

Let's back up a little, does the exhaust pipe stink of raw gasoline after trying to start it during the stalled condition? If so then ignition spark & sparkplug firing needs to be checked. Some ignition coils work when cold but quit working after the motor heats up.
Also, you can take the front of the intake air ductwork off, open the throttle plate wide open (with the motor off) and check for a strong raw gasoline smell which indicates a fuel leak inside the intake plenum.

If there's no raw gasoline odors present then you might lower the fuel tank enough for you to see if maybe there's a fuel line pinched.

Good point Chris, ignition also is not monitored by OBDI and wouldn't set a code either. I suggested checking fuel pressure and leakdown first, simply because it's easier to spot an intermittent problem by watching the gage, than trying to figure out if secondary ignition pulses are intermittent.

If fuel pressure is low, the pressure will not overcome the injector poppets spring pressure and the engine will stall from fuel starvation. Ignition, primary or secondary, and fuel pressure, or lack thereof, can cause stalling and not set a code.

So if fuel pressure is ;ow then ignition needs to be checked?

We need to determine if the problem is with fuel delivery or ignition, or whatever else it may be. I am suggesting checking the fuel pressure and leakdown first. That will determine if the fuel system is able to build sufficient fuel pressure and hold it. If the pressure is low, or leakdown is excessive, it needs to be repaired. If the fuel pressure and leakdown tests "pass", we'll move on and check ignition.

this sounds like a fuel problem to me winter gas in warm weather

already changed fuel pump so new gas with injector cleaner in it.

How well does it start and run when cold?

it runs like a champ until warm

If you put it in field service mode does it still stall out? start it up and use a paperclip or something similar to short pins A and B (may want to double check these, I'm going from memory) and the check engine light should flash 2.5 times per second. This should bypass any of the computer input and "force" it to run on its default programming. I had the same thing, ran fine cold, once warmed up would stall and not start until cools off. Hold it at about 1000 RPM's and it was fine. Foot off gas it stalls when warm. No codes set. My problem turned out to be the person I bought it from decided to pull the incoming temp sensor off and tape it close to the block. I put the sensor back in the snorkle and put in a good battery and it has been fine ever since. I'm not saying this is your problem, but the field service mode test will at least tell you if the computer input is making it stall or if it may be something else.