transmission solenoid

hello it is me again with my problematic transmission 4T60 E

In a last post (with no answers) I asked about te solenoid named MIEV in french.
I said that with 12 volts on it it just make a little buzz and not a clak like the others solenoids. This is on my old tansmision.
I don't know which part it is, but it is wired between the pins E and B on the plug of the transmission.
I have to test on the new one , I have only 1 and 2 gears and code 36 the wires between the plug and the computer are not cutted.

I am coming to NY next month and I will buy spare parts if I found the breakdown.
Do you know where I can find a dealer not too far out of center town


If you have an idea , thank you


Paul

Salut Paul
J'ai commandé à plusieurs reprise chez http://www.mileaautogroup.com/ dans le Bronx
Ils sont très sérieux et fiables.
Contacte les avant ton départ pour commander les pièces adéquates histoire de ne pas rentrer à vide.
A bientôt.
Christophe.

In english for our american friends.

Hi Paul
I ordered a lot of time to http://www.mileaautogroup.com/ located in the Bronx.
There are serious et reliable.
Contact them before your journey to order the parts.
Regards.
Christophe

Thank you , merci Sylvain

LMP have you an answer to my post about that solenoid


Thank you


Paul

This is the pressure modulator solenoid for the TCC:
www.avigex.ca/xport/transaxle.jpg
This solenoid controls the pressure so TCC applies progressively instead of on a sudden. THis action takes place within a fraction of a second .
I'd suspect improper action might let the TCC slip if not enough pressure is applied. (?!?!?) It might well happen that several complaints with the TCC shudder could be caused by improper operation of this solenoid and related valve, but going for it is more difficult than disconnecting TCC. May be more investigation into this assertion might become a new topic.

A full trans scan should show a code p1811 or p1870 for either tcc slippage, or low or high pressure.

yes, but it is a 92 TS and I am not sure it is possible to scan the transmission.

Thank you


Paul

Aha, the year comes at the end of all the info. 92 is electronic and can be scanned with a bidirectional scanner to see solenoid functions, but no trans codes will set.

Paul,
Have a look at this:
http://www.avigex.ca/xport/dtc36.jpg
Read at bottom to the left: "If a DTC36 is set due to a grounded ckt 1223, you vill have 1st and 2nd gear operation only."

Have you checked this? Is ckt 1223, or G at the connector grounded? (measure the resistance between ckt 1223 or G and ground).

I do not know anything about the pressure modulator solenoid, but my guess is that it should behave the way you describe. I can be wrong about this.

Edit: I see in a other post that you already have read this, but please use a ohmmeter to measure the resistance between: (with the connector unplugged, key off)

E at transmission to G at transmission
E at transmission to F at transmission
E at transmission to B at transmission
A at transmission to D at transmission
G at transmission to chassis ground
F at transmission to chassis ground
A at transmission to chassis ground
E at transmission to chassis ground
B at transmission to chassis ground
D at transmission to chassis ground

At the other side (connector unplugged, with key off):
G at the plug to chassis ground
F at the plug to chassis ground
A at the plug to chassis ground
E at the plug to chassis ground
B at the plug to chassis ground
D at the plug to chassis ground

Write down all the readings (Ohm) and post it here.

thank you for your help , sure I should do it again , more seriously.
I will try saturday and tell you about the results
I 'm going to print your post and check


Bye

Paul

When you say


" use a ohmmeter to measure the resistance between: (with the connector unplugged, key off)"

which connector are you talking about, the one on the transmission or the one going throught the fire wall to the computer!?

Paul

When you say


" use a ohmmeter to measure the resistance between: (with the connector unplugged, key off)"

which connector are you talking about, the one on the transmission or the one going throught the fire wall to the computer!?

Paul

Unplug the connector at the transmission. First ten measurements is on the transmission side, the last six is at the other side (going towards the computer).

Hello Nicke 66

I have done the test with an ohm meter under a nice cold rain
and the results are:


E at transmission to G at transmission 20 ohms
E at transmission to F at transmission 20 ohms
E at transmission to B at transmission 10.4 ohms
A at transmission to D at transmission 85.6 ohms?????????????????
G at transmission to chassis ground Nothing
F at transmission to chassis ground Nothing
A at transmission to chassis ground Nothing
E at transmission to chassis ground Nothing
B at transmission to chassis ground Nothing
D at transmission to chassis ground Nothing

At the other side (connector unplugged, with key off):
G at the plug to chassis ground Nothing
F at the plug to chassis ground Nothing
A at the plug to chassis ground 3 ohms???????
E at the plug to chassis ground 2.8 ohms
B at the plug to chassis ground Nothing
D at the plug to chassis ground Nothing

And a last one beteween Ground and A and after E with key on = 12 volts


If you have an idea , it would be great , the measure between A and D is strange , which solenoid is this.


Thank you and bye


Paul

Hello Nicke 66

I have done the test with an ohm meter under a nice cold rain
and the results are:


E at transmission to G at transmission 20 ohms
E at transmission to F at transmission 20 ohms
E at transmission to B at transmission 10.4 ohms
A at transmission to D at transmission 85.6 ohms?????????????????
G at transmission to chassis ground Nothing
F at transmission to chassis ground Nothing
A at transmission to chassis ground Nothing
E at transmission to chassis ground Nothing
B at transmission to chassis ground Nothing
D at transmission to chassis ground Nothing

At the other side (connector unplugged, with key off):
G at the plug to chassis ground Nothing
F at the plug to chassis ground Nothing
A at the plug to chassis ground 3 ohms???????
E at the plug to chassis ground 2.8 ohms
B at the plug to chassis ground Nothing
D at the plug to chassis ground Nothing

And a last one beteween Ground and A and after E with key on = 12 volts


If you have an idea , it would be great , the measure between A and D is strange , which solenoid is this.


Thank you and bye


Paul

Looking here:
http://www.avigex.ca/xport/dtc36.jpg
A to D is the TCC apply solenoid. It should be 20 Ohm, 85 is indeed strange. Have you tried to measure the other way, looking at the diagram, there is a diod next to the solenoid. What I can see, everything else is OK? Is this your second transmission, the rebuild transmission you bought from US? And now You have only 1st and 2nd drive? Have you tried to measure the same way on your old tramsmission?

Yes do as Nicke says. THe possibility here would be the solenoid is shot and you measre the equivalent resistance of the diode, and then the diode would read infinite if measured in reverse polarity. This would confirm blown solenoid...
ANother option would be to measure A to D with the diode scale..if your meter has one. Then in one direction, it would read diode drop (supposing the solenoid is shot) , around 0.6 volt, and no conduction in the other direction.

Thank's

yes it is on the "new" US transmission that I found that strange 85 ohms
But I don't understand where is the diode you are talking about.
Inside the transmission with the solenoid??

No I have not tried to measure the same way on the old tramsmission.
I gone do that this evening and post after.

So if solenoid TCC is blown what is the result ,: no first and second gears or something else, what is the real role of TCC

On the old transmission (I didn't understood what happened) I had no more gears I read something about stucked drawers, but I don't know if it is the reason. Could it be the same now A stucked drawer that just make 1 and 2
woork.

I don't understand Diode scale, do I have to apply 12 volts to read something


I would like to believe in miracles but I can't


Paul

I do not see any factual relation between the 85 ohms and your 1/2 problem, indeed. There is still some mystery there....since it has happened on both transmissions...could we imagine the problem is external....:frown:

ABout the diode: it is part of the solenoid circuit. THis is known as a "free wheeling diode" and it allows inductive current to die out, when opening the circuit, whithout generating a high voltage spike that can damage windings.

diode measurement: the battery included in you multimeter is used for reistance as well as diode measurement. The result is just shown differently. In the resistance scale, current circulated through the "resistance", whatever it is, is used to make a calculation using the internal voltage and displayed in "ohms". ON the diode scale, the current is circulated through the diode and the voltage across the diode is measured and displayed as such. Diode drop is always near to 0.6 volt in the "forward" direction, and no current will flow in the reverse direction, thus leaving the full voltage of the internal battery as the measurement, then shown as "infinite" or "overscale" on the diode display.....

I had problems with TCC shudder on my 92 Trans Sport with 4T60E. I also had problems with the TCC and OD dropping out after sitting in traffic, or pulling a trailer. I took resistance readings and most solenoids were just a hint over spec, but one was like 118k ohms. So I bought a solenoid kit and tore into the side pan. Just for kicks I measured the solenoids themselves, and every one was perfect. So I suspected the harness. I cleaned it really good. Also the solenoid connectors seem like a really hokey design. It seems they cant get tight no matter what, and it looks like they can heat up and expand and lose connection. I tightened them the best I could till I got good readings outside the trans. The problem is solved for the most part now. No more shudder. But when pulling a heavy trailer up big hills, it heats up just enough to kick out OD and the TCC once in a while. When I get a chance to go in the side pan again, Im going to cut out those stupid connectors and solder and heat shrink the connections.

There is still some mystery there....since it has happened on both transmissions...could we imagine the problem is external....:frown:


Paul, correct me if I am wrong, but didn´t the first transmission stop working at all, but you have 1st and 2nd gear with the rebuilt transmission?

LMP, I have a problem with my 96 transport trans, when cool it will go right into gear and stay and operate fine, but when it warms up it will not go into any gear at all including reverse. I hear a sound almost like a buzzing like squeal for about 2 seconds when it is warm and then it wont engage. after it sits for a while it will drive again.any idea what this may be, maybe a solenoid or modulator, or maybe the valve body ?

Paul, correct me if I am wrong, but didn´t the first transmission stop working at all, but you have 1st and 2nd gear with the rebuilt transmission?
Yeah..hopefully I was wrong here in my last remark..I had read Viala's last post a little bit fast and got the impression he described same trouble....

...transport trans, when cool, will go right into gear and stay and operate fine, but when it warms up it will not go into any gear ... after it sits for a while it will drive again
I would hope the explanation would be debris that fall to the bttom and then collect on the strainer after a few minutes of operation and block oil supply to pump...that would be easy and solved, at least temporarily, with a new strainer and change of fluid....but I do not expect this simple explanation would be anough. IN any case, dropping the transmission pan is easy and inexpensive ..though a dirty job...and will allow to peek an eye . IN fact I had extended the life of a former transmission with this simple change..but had to go for the real problem later.
HOnestly, any seal that starts leaking when warm can be an explanation...so it is a little hard to do a prediction worth more than the words. In fact this problem has been mentioned on this forum a few times, but either the outcome was not revealed, or a full rebuild was done, the precise cause not being identified...Some other foruim member might come with a better clue...