Orange 7 WIP

Well, actually it would be 8, not 9, but 7 is so much more "me". And 8 & 9 go into 360 so easily... I think I used a 1/16 inch two flute. I'd probably go to 1/32 inch to make one in 1/24 scale. (Be sure to buy those in bulk...)



The kit's master cylinder, (it still needs a decal that I haven't made yet…)
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01220.jpg

The transmission is mated to the engine and is ready to be installed into the frame…
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01222.jpg

The cam cover is done except for a decal I still have to make for the machined aluminum oil cap. Tamiya Clear Red was sprayed over silver for the color, the Ford emblems were BMF’d and the detail painted with Tamiya Transparent Blue. SMS PE bolt heads from sheet #8117 round out the detailing.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01251.jpg

The engine assembly is in the frame and the header has been heat stained with Tamiya Clear Blue, Red and Orange. I used the lacquer paints, decanted and airbrushed with a Tamiya/Iwata airbrush.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01252.jpg

Is that last picture the model, or a reference shot?!

Yep...

I finally have some of the (nearly) finished body parts to show... Like most models, I prepped the body parts and painted the base color very early in the build. The nose is painted (Tamiya Orange TS-12) and has “lipstick” applied in the form of SMS CF decals. Maybe a dozen individual pieces of decal. I used the Hi Def pattern and clear coated it with two part automotive urethane clear.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01250.jpg
Once the clear was dry, SMS #1012 C/F was applied to the interior of the nose. I started with one large piece and worked my way out with smaller tailor cut pieces. It took about two or three days of putting a few pieces of decal on, saturating them with Mr. Mark Softer and letting them dry in the window. Not a tough job, just one that takes a while.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01731.jpg

Back to the frame...
The upper frame and firewall assembly is done. This one assembly usually takes a lot more time than one would think, while it did go quicker than my earlier ones, still this time was no exception, at least it is well engineered by Tamiya. The master cylinder now has its custom made Scale-Master decals on it. The foot/pedal box cover and the heater box were covered with SMS HiDef C/F. I machined a couple fittings for the heater hoses.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01262.jpg

Sweetness!

The steering wheel is done… Another fun to make accent for this project...

The rubberized grip effect was made with Faux Fabrix, applied as the can says. I used three light, but full coats.

The spoke section is aluminum, also from the kit, but decaled with SMS carbon fiber decal #1020.

The center/horn button is an aluminum piece I machined; it was tinted with Tamiya Clear Orange. The bolts on it are photo-etched units from SMS PE sheet #8117. The decal in the very center is from the kit.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01259.jpg

Sweet build!

Incredible work!
:jump3:

Jamme

The engine assembly is in the frame and the header has been heat stained with Tamiya Clear Blue, Red and Orange. I used the lacquer paints, decanted and airbrushed with a Tamiya/Iwata airbrush.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01252.jpg


Great built so far, this photo looks like the real thing

Here is the radiator and oil cooler assembly. Kit parts and decal with couple machined aluminum details on the top of the radiator to replace what I sanded off during clean up. Easier for me to do it that way, and adds just a little more metal…

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01313.jpg

The interior panels are finished.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01648.jpg
The dash is pretty much finished too. You can see how the decal pattern is similar to the molded dash pattern. Not an exact match, but once it is all put together I think it will work well considering how little of the side panels are visible. It is much darker looking in person so the contrast is really lower than the photos show.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01379.jpg

And I finally made the decals for the coolant and oil caps…

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01460.jpg

I feel a bit of a masochistic following this thread - but I want more !

Great work :thumbsup:

I haven't the slightest idea what an Orange 7 is but this little baby is coming out very nicely.

I use model master's spray can version of your faux fabric spray can. Have you had a chance to try both out? If so, whats your opinion on them? I've only used model master's fabric can on one model and it came out all right, nothing to lose my breath about. Perhaps it would have looked better on a bigger scale model, and it was a bit annoying because it is a two part spray method.

The first post in this thread explains what "Orange 7" is. And thanks.
No, I have not used the Testors fabric paint, only the SMS Faux Fabrix. It is single stage so I can see a benefit in ease of use right there. I have used it on smaller scales like 1/25, and it works well in that size too. Now on to some new stuff...

The front fenders have been painted Tamiya TS-12 Orange over white primer to hide the dark green plastic. Since they could be C/F, but the whole body is also C/F, I decided to paint the tops with color for some contrast and use C/F on the bottom. With some careful planning, I was able to decal the underside of each front fender (or wing for those of you across the pond…) with only two pieces of SMS HiDef. Mr. Mark Softer decal solvent was a big help too. They were sealed with the Dullcote/Glosscote mix, but were not color sanded as the side panels were so the sheen is a bit duller for some added contrast. You'll see once they are on the car... - Mark

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01653.jpg

Good Lord!! The precision of that decaling/painting is unbelievable.
It's laser sharp :eek:

Sorry, but I think I missed something - what does "colour sanded" mean?

Ban him please...

Sorry, but I think I missed something - what does "colour sanded" mean?

Wet sanding the base coat.

Good Lord!! The precision of that decaling/painting is unbelievable.
It's laser sharp :eek:

Sorry, but I think I missed something - what does "colour sanded" mean?


Here is link to earlier in the build that should help clarify and answer your question. About 2/3 or 3/4 of the way down this page:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=685175&page=2

it's kinda funny... my caterham will haven orange side panels and a black nose and engine cover! The oposite of you're car!!!

Stunning!
I just read the thread from start to finish and it was excellent !

Here is link to earlier in the build that should help clarify and answer your question. About 2/3 or 3/4 of the way down this page:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=685175&page=2
:thumbsup:

The insides of the rear fenders got a couple coats of Faux Fabrix to simulate the rubberized coating that helps absorb flying stones and keep them from punching through… The paint was decanted into my airbrush cup and sprayed to limit the amount of overspray and to avoid over saturation and possible runs.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01659.jpg

C/F stone guards were cut from SMS Hi-Def C/F and applied to front of the rear fenders. A thin border for each guard was made from Scale-Master Decal Stripe Sheet SS-2w. (There are thinner stripes on the sheet not shown in the picture that I used.) Careful cutting and a dose of decal solvent made the radiuses.
The texture of the SMS Hi Def C/F is visible in the stone guard on the right side of the picture.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01694.jpg

Seat belts are also SMS units, #8123. Assembled as per the instructions. I used a black Sharpie permanent marking pen to color them. It is imperative that sharp cutting tools be used on the belt material, other than that, it’s really no more effort than other materials I have used to make belts. I used a fresh #11 X-acto and some new, i.e. sharp, Tamiya Decal Scissors. For me, the knife was the better tool for this task.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01650.jpg

And after the side panels went in, so did the finished seats… (except for the decals that I still have to make for the buckles...)

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01652.jpg

And the firewall, footbox and upper engine compartment frame assembly…

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01651.jpg

The shoulder harness's will be made and installed later...

This is coming together really quickly! The leather edge of the seats looks very convincing. I'm certain it must be soft to touch !

Yes, it is coming together quickly at this point. But I did do a lot of tedious work and paint work so everything would be really dry and easy to handle way back at the beginning so I could enjoy the build more once it started rolling along. Definitely a benefit of building the same kit so many times.
Seats are softer looking than they feel... - Mark

Here is the installed muffler with heat shield. The shield was hit with some fine steel wool. It is assembled as the kit offers it with some detail painting on the now hidden muffler and the end of the tailpipe.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01654.jpg

i really like this its coming along great, dont really like the leapord but u did a good job putting it on and its ur kit so my opinion shouldnt matter on ur seats :) lol anyways nice kit

I really like it, the detailing is just first class.

Once the ignition wires were routed to the spark plugs and coil, I could install the Weber carbs and K&N air filters. The carbs and filters are box stock kit items just detailed with paint. They even come with that cool screen mesh for the filter elements.

I made the lettering for the wires, hose and belts.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01682.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01687.jpg

Mind-blowing detail. Is the lettering on the plug wires a decal? I'm shocked you could get that kind of detail at such a small size...

Now THAT is a real photo!!! :lol:

And now the front “wings” are attached…

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01689.jpg



… And the completed rear fender assemblies…

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01718.jpg



Now the wheels can be mounted to the car for the final time and thus the hub caps can be installed for the first time…

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01721.jpg

Excellent craftsmanship and wonderful tips as usual. More to refer to when I eventually get around to building mine. I've got a boatload of experience to gain with painting, that's for sure. One thing with the Tamiya kits, though, I continue to find those phillips screw-heads annoying. I can't see building it and leaving them exposed "as is." What do you consider the best alternatives, if any?

BTW, aren't you involved with a 1:1 Super Seven? I recall seeing a picture of you helping to take one off a trailer. Or is that the NEXT build - simultaneous 1:1 and 1:12? :cool:

Thanks Jim.

Yes, in my opinion, those little screws, which make assembly so quick on many parts, are the single largest detractor of the finished model looking real. This Orange one is a more or less, Out-Of-the-Box build, (with a few enhancements for fun...), it is not for my collection, it is for someone else.

To hide or eliminate those screws on the last two of these I built, I machined my own hardware in aluminum. Time consuming? Yes, but I think it yields the best look.

Another alternative is to "cap" them with PE bolt heads. A bit better than the phillips heads, but slightly lacking in thickness for many applications. But if you don't have access to a mill...

Yes, I have friends with real 7's. But I'll stick to my Camaro's for a while. Seven's are neat, but not too practical as daily drivers.

The cowl was painted orange, because the color was handy, any light color would do, and the decals like to be applied over paint better than raw material. I used SMS #1320 Kevlar.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01712.jpg

Here is the decal I cut from the sheet and the solvent and brush I used.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01715.jpg

The decal reacted very quickly to the decal solvent. Made the application easy. Just don't over do it with the solvent. I made the front edge conform to the part and let it dry for a bit.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01716.jpg

Then tackled the rear and sides. A couple little patches were needed and easy to do.

Then it was clear coated with the mix of Dullcoate and Glosscote with a drop or two of Tamiya Clear yellow thrown in.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01720.jpg

When you brushed on the solvent, was the decal backing still on? And did you dip it in water first? Because your decaling skills are amazing.

When you brushed on the solvent, was the decal backing still on? And did you dip it in water first? Because your decaling skills are amazing.


Never put solvent on a decal that is still on the paper backing. Only use solvent where needed.
Most decals do not need solvent all over every part of them, just the spots that need extra help to conform.
Dip in water, wait for the decal to slide off easily, position on part, then assess what needs solvent.
As you become more familiar with the decals you are working with, you may find a little solvent on the part in a tough area before applying the decal can help. You'll have to figure that out though.
It's better to go slow and sparingly with the solvent, once you put too much on, it becomes very difficult to salvage the damage that can occur... -Mark

The license plate is a custom made decal. Phillips head P/E items from SMS #8117 accentuate it.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/BigRulerModels/DSC01740.jpg

Just very beautiful build. I love Sevens because they are so versatile yet simple cars. You can go with lots of different colour schemes and it will look good. I have 6 Seven models myself, but only one of them is a Tamiya 1:12 kit, which I am building as a long term project a small phase at a time.