Will not start again question.
iamatracker
03-17-2007, 04:57 PM
After many part replacements and hours reading the repair manual I have finally diagnosed my problem with my 91 tracker quitting and not starting.
It always occurred away from my home shop and finally the thing quit in the garage. Going thru the diagnostics AGAIN, I found that I had no soark and no fuel getting through to the engine.
With my ohm meter and test light I was able to determine that there was power to both the coil, igniter and the TBI. but no fuel or spark delivery.
Searching yet further in the manual I found the section on the distributor and leaned that if the Hall element(Camshaft Positionong Sensor) is not working then the ECM is not recieving a signal form it and therefore will not send a Spark signal to the distributer or a fuel signal to the TBI. ( both are new)
I changed the distributer with a used one and it now is on the road again.
So I think this answers the question of stalling, intermitent quitting problems and it is likely not to be the ECM even though it is thought to be and highly recommended on this forum to repalce the ECM.
To justify that it was not the ECM I re-installed my original ECM and the tracker runs like it should.
The test proceedure is difficult and you need the Dealer Manuel to do this. I am going to try and rig a simple test procedure soon for those of you that want to try and test your dist. before buying new parts and will post it here.
HOpe this helps others
It always occurred away from my home shop and finally the thing quit in the garage. Going thru the diagnostics AGAIN, I found that I had no soark and no fuel getting through to the engine.
With my ohm meter and test light I was able to determine that there was power to both the coil, igniter and the TBI. but no fuel or spark delivery.
Searching yet further in the manual I found the section on the distributor and leaned that if the Hall element(Camshaft Positionong Sensor) is not working then the ECM is not recieving a signal form it and therefore will not send a Spark signal to the distributer or a fuel signal to the TBI. ( both are new)
I changed the distributer with a used one and it now is on the road again.
So I think this answers the question of stalling, intermitent quitting problems and it is likely not to be the ECM even though it is thought to be and highly recommended on this forum to repalce the ECM.
To justify that it was not the ECM I re-installed my original ECM and the tracker runs like it should.
The test proceedure is difficult and you need the Dealer Manuel to do this. I am going to try and rig a simple test procedure soon for those of you that want to try and test your dist. before buying new parts and will post it here.
HOpe this helps others
Trackermomma
04-25-2007, 01:37 AM
Did you figure out how to test your theory a little easier?
Do my problems sound like yours?
I stalled every time I slowed down the RPMS to stop or shift gears on one day and one day only. It hasnt done it since. It doesnt want to start, it is turning over extremly slow and takes about 1-2 minutes of slow reving to finally turn over. (sorry I dont know how else to describe the sound) It is a slow the-battery-is-dead-but-it-still-might-start-sound. It starts out really slow then gradually increases until presto! It started!
Some days I get in and it does absouletly nothing. No rev, rev, rev, turn over. I wait or push start it ( thank God for a stick shift ) and then it is fine.
I do have a belt that is sqealing, it was recently replaced. It doesnt squeal all the time though. It will usually stop after I change gears, or stop.
I also have a check engine light on. The previous owner had that checked out, they said it was an oxygen sensor. Anybody know what the deal is?
Do my problems sound like yours?
I stalled every time I slowed down the RPMS to stop or shift gears on one day and one day only. It hasnt done it since. It doesnt want to start, it is turning over extremly slow and takes about 1-2 minutes of slow reving to finally turn over. (sorry I dont know how else to describe the sound) It is a slow the-battery-is-dead-but-it-still-might-start-sound. It starts out really slow then gradually increases until presto! It started!
Some days I get in and it does absouletly nothing. No rev, rev, rev, turn over. I wait or push start it ( thank God for a stick shift ) and then it is fine.
I do have a belt that is sqealing, it was recently replaced. It doesnt squeal all the time though. It will usually stop after I change gears, or stop.
I also have a check engine light on. The previous owner had that checked out, they said it was an oxygen sensor. Anybody know what the deal is?
jtgh
04-27-2007, 02:45 AM
hello trackermomma
if your battery is weak and it is cold outside ? , the spark may be weak and or unreliable. ( a normal thing)
You seem to have more than one problem so we will attack the most important, the cranking.
Take the car to an AutoZone or Shucks (Wa.) and ask for them to check your battery and alternator output.
When I was young Id park on hills so I could bump it , in second gear. (poverty of youth)
In washington state you have a place that will do the same. called Budget battery. and the batteries are cheap. (had one last 11 years once, amazing to me)
They will put a load tester on the battery and in 1 minute have the answer, they will start the car and measure the charge rate , and this will tell you the condition of the alternator ( it puts out 14.7vdc when working).
there you go.
jtgh
if your battery is weak and it is cold outside ? , the spark may be weak and or unreliable. ( a normal thing)
You seem to have more than one problem so we will attack the most important, the cranking.
Take the car to an AutoZone or Shucks (Wa.) and ask for them to check your battery and alternator output.
When I was young Id park on hills so I could bump it , in second gear. (poverty of youth)
In washington state you have a place that will do the same. called Budget battery. and the batteries are cheap. (had one last 11 years once, amazing to me)
They will put a load tester on the battery and in 1 minute have the answer, they will start the car and measure the charge rate , and this will tell you the condition of the alternator ( it puts out 14.7vdc when working).
there you go.
jtgh
Trackermomma
05-02-2007, 01:51 AM
I did take the battery to get tested, and It was a bad battery, found out it isnt event he right one for the car. Haha Anyway, I got a new one, and distributor cap and Rotor, and a oil change. It was sitting for a few years, I figured it was time. So that is all better. Now I Have the squealing belt, it got worse and I found out doing the oil change I have a leak in the transmission.
SIGH...
It is also REALLLY hard to shift gears, I have to use two hands sometimes, which I think is probably a tranny problem. It might go right along witht the leak. It seems to be more difficult to shift when I have been driving around alot...hmm
Can you fix a leaky transmission without replacing the whole tranny?
You said:
When I was young Id park on hills so I could bump it , in second gear. (poverty of youth)
In washington state you have a place that will do the same. called Budget battery. and the batteries are cheap. (had one last 11 years once, amazing to me)
They will put a load tester on the battery and in 1 minute have the answer, they will start the car and measure the charge rate , and this will tell you the condition of the alternator ( it puts out 14.7vdc when working).
there you go.
jtgh[/quote]
SIGH...
It is also REALLLY hard to shift gears, I have to use two hands sometimes, which I think is probably a tranny problem. It might go right along witht the leak. It seems to be more difficult to shift when I have been driving around alot...hmm
Can you fix a leaky transmission without replacing the whole tranny?
You said:
When I was young Id park on hills so I could bump it , in second gear. (poverty of youth)
In washington state you have a place that will do the same. called Budget battery. and the batteries are cheap. (had one last 11 years once, amazing to me)
They will put a load tester on the battery and in 1 minute have the answer, they will start the car and measure the charge rate , and this will tell you the condition of the alternator ( it puts out 14.7vdc when working).
there you go.
jtgh[/quote]
jtgh
05-02-2007, 02:07 AM
Tranny leaks.
if the leak at the bottom of the shifter (hidden under boot)maybe, and the tail shift of transfer case maybe , but all others require removal.
front seal, & the horizonal split of case leaks require splitting cases and resealing it.
Our transmissions are perfect book ends , we both leak and mine HATES 1 >2 shifts ( acks like shift rail and not 2nd synro , in my case)
make sure your tranny is full of the best lube you can buy. but since my pilot shaft main bearing sings like a bird, it all comes out.
if you need a shop manual (factory)just for tranny let me know, I just snagged a pdf of one.
very nice. and a Pdf in color of how to repair the thing.
with nice color photos and narative.
good day to you.
if the leak at the bottom of the shifter (hidden under boot)maybe, and the tail shift of transfer case maybe , but all others require removal.
front seal, & the horizonal split of case leaks require splitting cases and resealing it.
Our transmissions are perfect book ends , we both leak and mine HATES 1 >2 shifts ( acks like shift rail and not 2nd synro , in my case)
make sure your tranny is full of the best lube you can buy. but since my pilot shaft main bearing sings like a bird, it all comes out.
if you need a shop manual (factory)just for tranny let me know, I just snagged a pdf of one.
very nice. and a Pdf in color of how to repair the thing.
with nice color photos and narative.
good day to you.
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