Hello again, need pro tips

[[For those who don't know, it's a MT 1990 240sx hb w/ bolt-ons]]

My factory suspension is totally shot :< I also think my axle mounts or something down there is seriously jacked up or just missing.

Right so, I'm sitting on some money and I want to completely take care of all of my suspension concerns, I don't really know much of what should be replaced/upgraded, have to of course replace the factory coils/struts, probably want to do the sway bars as well. Basically I want to get set up with a nice aggressive stance, tighten the car up on the corners A LOT, and probably drop it a bit (some how I'm up to 4inches of wheel gap). Not really looking for a cheap out solution either, this car will probably have a lot of money thrown at it over the next few years so I wanna do it right.

So yeah, if there is anything I really should know about how to determine what I want done please let me know, any bad experiences or foreseeable problems also. Any other major parts I should consider taking care of at the same time? k thanks, sorry I'm newb! <3 <3 <3

Pretty sure the guys well tell you to go with a full coilover set. Best thing to do first off is go to the company's website and read their descriptions. I know Tein has different coilover sets for different kinds of racing. HKS, Apexi, so on and on all have respectable kits. If I was you and willing to shell out big bucks, I'd get a Tein coilver set thats compatible with their EDFC controller, which basically lets you change the settings on your suspension from a controller from your car, sort of like how a boost controller works. Sway bars and strut bars are easy enough to come by, thats pretty much just your preference on which one you like.

I usually go to raretrick.com to do some window shopping, so I think that'd be good a place as any to get an idea of which products appeal the most.

Ef Tein, i think there junk, quality has gone down hill ALOT since there beginning, however this is what I would do with some money, buy some Stance coilovers (ther GN+ Pro setup) there hot, and come with two spring rates (no, i didnt say you can choose from, they seriously come with 2 sets of springs for each coilover) That will handle your shock/camber setup, then go with some Battle Version tierods, and end links, Full Energy supsension Bushing set, SPL subframe spacers (stiffen up the rear alittle) get some S.T. sway bars, and AMS (awesome company) weld in brace set. thats will pretty much take car of ALL your suspension needs, i would then get a Kaaz 1.5 way diff to 100% finish it off...and yes were looking at a couple grand in parts, but if you want to do it right...thats how you roll...

So as for sway bars... can I within reason go too thick? If thicker just reduces body roll (which is probably my largest complaint) shouldn't I just get the thickest most rigid bars I can find for the s13? Whatever I end up doing I'll probably end up having a shop do the actual part buying since I'm not too confident with my ability to buy the right stuff my self =).

Also what about like new bushings or maybe strut tower bars, that kinda stuff really make much of a difference?

Oh hey also, getting sick with launching on one wheel, I don't really want to weld the differential together... Think it's worth it to swap in something else for that?

Edit: sorry I typed too slow and some of this was answered <3

honestly you dont want to go too thick of swap bar, as sway also helps traction (if your going for a handling car) if you want a drift setup you will want stock in the back, and stiff up front, as this tends to allow the rear end to step out easier...i recommend for a good drift/autoX setup go with Suspension Techniques setup front and rear...

btw...a good set of coilovers will take 75% of all your body roll away, as stocks springs are soft and allow ALOT of body roll...

Oh hey also, getting sick with launching on one wheel, I don't really want to weld the differential together... Think it's worth it to swap in something else for that?

Edit: sorry I typed too slow and some of this was answered <3


Like mentioned earlier, go with an upgraded LSD. Welded diffs are pretty hardcore shit for daily driving. On slow turns the outer tire will actually skip and screech along the pavement and driving on the highway will be squirrelly as hell. Not to mention if it rains, you might wanna leave the car at home, lol.

And I've heard about Tein's losing reputation. Honestly I don't have any experience firsthand, I just mentioned them because as far as I know the only coilovers that will work with the EDFC are Tein's.

But true stiffer springs alone will take alot of body roll away. When I put in my new springs, it made a WORLD of difference. Now my shocks are near shot, lol. Strut bars definitely help too, because ofcourse the minimize rolling and twisting. Just make sure you get them front and back for even traction all around.

Like mentioned earlier, go with an upgraded LSD. Welded diffs are pretty hardcore shit for daily driving. On slow turns the outer tire will actually skip and screech along the pavement and driving on the highway will be squirrelly as hell. Not to mention if it rains, you might wanna leave the car at home, lol.

And I've heard about Tein's losing reputation. Honestly I don't have any experience firsthand, I just mentioned them because as far as I know the only coilovers that will work with the EDFC are Tein's.
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yes edfc only works with teins, i however find edfc expensive and stupid, its for the lazy man, i mean who the hell changes there setup when there driving anyways?

and i have driven with my kazz 2 way (basically a welded diff) and on many other setups, (welded, 1.5's, and opens) and anything that will increase traction in the hole shot, or around turns, will be something like a 1.5 or 2 way. I have Absolutly never had a problem driving in rain OR snow...in which i did drive with both in the rain and snow with my 400whp s13 with no problems.

if you have problems driving your 2 way or welded in the rain, you need to learn how to drive...

2 way kaaz lsd is not a welded, and drives quite different from one. but, being a clutch engagement lsd does give it more instant lock feel than a helical or viscous lsd.
as far as suspension, tein isnt worth it. the cheaper end coilovers suck and the high end ones are too expensive.
if you really want to put some money into your car, go with zeal super functions. they cant be beat, but are around 2800 for a set. otherwise, KTS coils are 1100 and work fine.

there also is no such thing as an axle mount on an independent suspension car.
id say get good coilovers, some thicker sway bars (adjustable ones would probably be the best), replace your bushings with poly bushings, and get some subframe spacers. just these mods will give you a very tight controllable ride without breaking the bank buying aluminum adjustable everything.
upper strut bars arent all that great unless you get a few more upgrades in other suspension areas, but once you start stiffening up the ride, any bracing you can throw at the car can only help.

just do a full multilink setup(tension rods, tie rods, ruca's, traction rods, rear toe rods). www.splparts.com has everything you need for a good price. Also get the subframe bushings as mentioned and sway bars. Also a nismo power brace will help make things more solid up front.

stance or KTS coilovers are good stuff at good price.

i think that will "tighten up" the car a bit haha. Hell i noticed a huge difference when i put all my suspension on with a vlsd and the worst alignment ever haha. The car feels solid.

2 way kaaz lsd is not a welded, and drives quite different from one. but, being a clutch engagement lsd does give it more instant lock feel than a helical or viscous lsd..

I was not saying that a 2 way is a welded, i was stating that they are VERY similar in driveablity qualities, when driving they will handle nearly identically, besides at low speeds..

Thanks for all the help, as far as price, I was planning to drop around 2g total for parts, but thats kinda flexible, I figure 1100$ coilovers should be fine, I pretty much want to replace all the other little factory bits, bushings tierods and whatever else, whats on there now is seriously 17 years old and not in great shape.

yea 2 grand should take care of alot of it. That should be a pretty good setup.

Ok, I didn't read anything after the first post cause I have ADD, but get Stance coils, Bing's rear multi link, tie rods, stab link kits and TC rods, any company subframe collars or bushings (metal or poly) and PDM lower control arms with poly bushings already pressed in. (Or SPL lower control arms with rod ends if you wanna be hardcore, but I wouldn't do this for street.)

Also I just had my car washed for $5 cause I was lazy, first wash in like 4 months for some reason and it was hella dirty, then I went to work and got blasted by the sprinkler system the very next day. Thanks. thanks a lot >:(

Can you guys recomend any suspension upgrades to increase my sprinkler system resistance?

seriously though, thanks for the help, I could use a little more info on the differential, I went around looking at those and prices seem to be all over the place, do some of these change the gear ratio at all or anything? or just the power distribution? Also my main concern with that is launch traction, I really want both of those tires spinning, I don't want my tires hopping around on the on ramps though :<

I believe what your looking for is a 1.5 way diff, it will ALWAYS hook in a straight line and all the time around corners, but at low speeds (parking lot turning) you will not get the clunky you will from a 2 way. 2 ways are very harsh...if this is your DD or you cant drive in the rain with full posi...then go with a 1.5 way....

...I always say go 2 way though, i love mine to death...

yea i would say go 1.5 way. Hell there's alot of pro drifters and racecar's that even use a 1.5 way instead of 2 way. I guess its driver preference in some cases.

im still debating on going 2 or 1.5 myself. Oh well ill ride this viscouse out for a while before i go big on a diff. Atleast see how it holds up to power first.

I had a new J30 unit in my car also before i swapped in my kaaz unit...let me tell ya...there was no better upgrade. the J30 just cant really handle real power.

^^^ yeah thats what im thinking is going to happen with my viscous.