truck will start then stall

ok here it is....I put my truck in the ditch. The truck was on its side (drivers) and there was 6-10 inches of water in the cab..When I was climbing out I broke the key out of the ignition...then I totally EFD it up trying to get the old out..finally I ended up putting in a new ingition lock key cylinder and got it coded to my spare key and they even cut me a brand new key totally....anyway once that was all installed I tried to start and I hear the FP it fires right up then just as fast it shuts down. PLEASE HELP...

ok here it is....I put my truck in the ditch. The truck was on its side (drivers) and there was 6-10 inches of water in the cab..When I was climbing out I broke the key out of the ignition...then I totally EFD it up trying to get the old out..finally I ended up putting in a new ingition lock key cylinder and got it coded to my spare key and they even cut me a brand new key totally....anyway once that was all installed I tried to start and I hear the FP it fires right up then just as fast it shuts down. PLEASE HELP...

Year and model and engine?

Does engine start and run 30 seconds and quits.
Or do you just hear the fuel pump run 30 seconds and quit?
Any anti theft or security lights on dash staying on.
Remote or anti theft add ons?

shoot sorry..Its a 99 1500 z71. No remote starter or aftermarket security everything is stock in that aspect. The truck will not even run for 30 seconds, it fires up then quits right away. The security light in the display centre keeps repeating from security to the bat. light.:banghead: drivin me crazy!

Try the auto learn procedure.
Turn Key on for 10 minutes until security light goes out.
Turn key off and back on again for 10 minutes until light goes out.
Repeat the key on for 10 minute for 3 times.
Turn key off and the see if it will start.
You may have to have a battery charger on it to keep battery from going dead while you are doing it.
Let us know if that helps.
If not you will need to get the body computer codes to see where the problem is.

beauty I was told to try that 10 min thing once..I will try it three times...I have a tech II gm reader(step dad got it from work) I will be going over to his place tomorrow. I have to get the BCM codes right? we can find the codes but dont know what they mean so I will checkem all again tomorrow and post. Thanks.

You have got to do the 10 minute thing 3 times in a row to get it to work.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
And get the codes if you have a scanner present or history and post them back.

I had this problem when I yanked out the Remote Starter kit out of my truck. It turned out I had removed a 12 volt wire to the Security brain in the truck. Once I had reconnected it everything was fine. Is it possible that you don't have your security unit powered anymore? Check all your fuses and then check for any broken wires or anything like that.
The Security unit was just to the passenger side of the steering column behind the lower fashia piece.
Good luck!

You did replace the decoder when you replaced the lock too??? Those are separate pieces and don't come together. It's possible you either damaged that decoder or didn't plug it back together properly. You may have to find the 3 little wires (black, yellow, and orange black) to test to see if it's sending out the correct resistance.

thanks i did not replace the decoder I will have to look into it..When I test the wires what wires do I have to test for resistance?..Ok guys I finally got the codes. They are
B1480
B2585
B3138
lemme know what you think!

I don't know what those codes are. You should find out exactly what those are before looking into anything else.

The PK2 wires go into the ignition up closer to the lock itself. They are super tiny 22ga. wires. You'll want to test the black or black/orange(ground reference wire) and the yellow(pk2 wire) The other one you will not use. Cut the yellow wire and put a meter set to ohms on the end going towards the ignition. Put the other lead on the black wire. You should see some sort of ohm value. Turn the ignition on and put the car in reverse then crank it. The ohms should change and if it does, that's you resistance value. If it doesn't change or it changes then keeps fluctuating, you have a bad decoder.

Go threw the test ponchonutty posted.

On the codes code B3138 is indicating you have a door lock circuit high problem.
Did the door and door lock switches get wet inside?
If so you may have to look at the door lock switches .
Code B1480 is a battery run down circuit problem.
Code B2585 is a park light control problem.

But when working with codes the first thing is to clear all codes and see what one comes back first.
Post back what code is at the top of list and or what all come back
Also I would suggest unplugging battery and pcm and body computer and then hooking everything back up and recheck for codes and do the relearn again.

MT-thanks for code info here they are in order b4 I cleared them
B1480 Battery Rundown
B2585 Park lamp control
B3138 Door lock circuit High
once I cleared the codes only the B1480 came up now that is a battery rundown..does that mean I have something that is drawing power that shouldnt be?
I tore apart the door lock switch in the door it was totally green I hit it with some bat cleaner and got rid of the corrosion. The park lamp just went away its self.
ponchonutty thank I will give that test a try it will be a couple days when I can get back to it, I will post what I get once I have it done!

mt-2500 you are the man! that message you sent in regards to the battery run down code did it..I read it and everything seemed to point to the ubec(fuse panel under the hood) so I pulled the whole thing apart and cleaned all the connectors and said screw it all new fuses and stuff..sure enough a few mins of cranking and it fired up.yeah a few mins...shut it down after the engine smoothened out and I checked the oil pressure.Threw a charger on the bat(didnt want to over work the alt. hit the key again half hour later fired up like it was brand new! Thanks again thought I would give you the update!..Just a few more little things going kinda funny with some electrical now but I think it is just more connections need cleaning!

You are welcome
AND.
Thanks for posting back how it went.
Glad you are getting it going.
MT

my dad has the same problem with his truck because of his remote starter so every now and then if someone pushes the button the security light will stay on after the doors are shut and the truck will turn on and shut right back off

my dad has the same problem with his truck because of his remote starter so every now and then if someone pushes the button the security light will stay on after the doors are shut and the truck will turn on and shut right back off
That's not the same issue. Sounds like the bypass for the remote start has failed.