Engine getting to warm

1998 Blazer LT 151,000 miles

Back in November my original radiator let go and the engine got semi warm as all the antifreeze drained. So I filled the radiator with water and made it the couple miles home where it started to heat up again getting to maybe 230 - 240 degrees F or so. So when i pulled in the driveway I left the truck running and jammed the hose into the radiator so the water would cycle through the engine block so I could get it to cool down prior to shutting it down. So a few days later I dropped it off at a place that is highly recommended. So they said radiator is bad and I agreed and they also said maybe you should have the thermostat swapped out. So for the extra $10 I had it swapped. So now new radiator and thermostat and a week later I shut the truck down in the driveway and ten minutes later the antifreeze just drained!!! So I dropped it off to the same place, they covered everything and said oh sorry just a loose hose. OK fine. Drove fine for a week again and then in the driveway the radiator just emptied again!!!!!! So I brought it back again and they said this is a defective radiator so they swapped it out all on them of course and this is a brand new radiator not a referb. So it was fine for about 4 months and also the temp was below freezing most of the time. Once it broke high 30's low 40's the temp gauge would go well passed the 210 mark and I would have to put the heat on to bring them temp back down to normal. So again I drop it off to the same place, they say it may be the thermostat sticking a tad so on them they replace the thermostat again and said it held just below 210 where it should be. I drove it for 15 minutes and it shot right passed 210 and again had to put the heat on. So I have gone through 2 radiators, 2 thermostats and a flush and fill 3 times. First time they replaced the radiator the antifreeze was the yellow universal stuff, the second time it was Dex Cool, 3rd time it was yellow in the radiator dex cool in the overflow bottle. My question is...... WHAT THE HELL DO I DO NOW!!!???:banghead:

Thank you

Well I know that Prestone makes a yellow coolant that is compatable with the orange stuff. Since they make both the yellow and orange I trust that when they say it is compatable it actually is.

You may want to replace the fan clutch if it is not cooling properly. Also is the water pump in good working order? I dont think it would cause excess heat without actually seizing the bearing but just a thought.

I am pretty sure everything else is in great condition. Fan spins loud and strong. I have a baby on the way, just bought a house, job sucks, I need this truck to last forever. It is in great shape otherwise!!!

Bottom line is there is something keeping your cooling system from working properly.
So that leaves; 1- blockage, 2- failure to move coolant, 3- Fan not working.

Youre cooling system is pretty simple. Your fan blows air pulling through the radiator and circulating in the engine compartment. Your water pump moves the coolant through the system. The thermostat will open when the temperature reaches whatever the thermostat is designed for.

If the fan is running fine and the water pump is circulating fine, something is stopping the flow of the coolant. Is it possible that the thermostat is not the proper temp range? Maybe they are using junk parts.

As JoulesWinfield said go back over all basics.
Try another brand of thermostat.
But what you have described may be a head gasket leakage problem.
Does the heater quit heating at about the same time the tempt starts raising real fast?
Slow or a real fast tempt rise when it starts heating up?
Fast heat up on a heavy pull or big long hill?
Any coolant in engine oil?
Any strange engine miss on start up or blue smoke or sweet smell out of tail pipe?
Ask the shop to run a head gasket test on it.
Most have a tester known as a {block check} head gasket tester.
It is a chemical type tester that goes on the top of rad neck and the liquid chemical will change colors if there is head gasket leakage or exhaust gas in the coolant system.
Quick and easy to use and test will show exhaust gas in coolant from cracked head or block or head gasket.

I would have to agree with MT-2500 here, especially after you said you filled a (overly) hot engine with (cold) hose water. You may have cracked or warped a head.

No coolant in oil, no smoking, engine was not anywhere near over heating when I ran the cold water through, just about 230 or 240 maybe. And the temp locked in at just one click under 210. Heat temp is fine when i need it and the temp has no change on hills or when I tow. I will get the head gasket tested but I believe that was replaced when i had the upgraded fuel injector kit put in a few years ago. Just can't figure it out. It will be back in the shop again this coming weekend for them to go through it again.

Im surprised to hear that a head gasket leak is a suspect. I wouldnt think you would see that big of a temperature rise as a symptom from a head gasket. At least not without some other sore thumb type of symptom.
But I have not had much exposure to head gasket leaks to know.

If you were pulling air into the symptom from the leak I could see that making pockets where coolant wouldnt flow properly. But I dont know the mechanical dynamics of the cooling channels in the block to know where and how likely that is.

A quick check as MT described sounds like a plan. Especially since none of the other components seem to be giving any clues as to the problem.
Make sure you post up what ever you find.